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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I recently installed the turboxs sml hybrid diverter valve and I'm having an issue with it not closing fully from idle till about 3k rpm-3.5k rpm. It's hooked up exactly how the stock surge valve is and I contacted turboxs and they suggested bypassing the solenoid and going from the intake manifold directly into the diverter valve. My question is how to bypass the solenoid the right way for this setup? I read a few posts on the aftermarket BOV setup that said I need to T into the break booster line comming off the throttle body and removing the pink and blue lines and capping the solenoid off, is this the correct method for a diverter valve that's hooked up into the stock position without an aftermarket cold side pipe? My plan was to get a T and 4 feet of vacuum hose and run the new hose directly to the nipple on the diverter valve and get rid of the pink line, but I'm unsure about removing the blue line that's already T'd into the break booster line. I also don't have a clue what size hose and T I need for a nipple that's stock size? Thanks for any advice and help in advance ✌
 

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No need to make it so complicated.
Basically the TurboXS line needs to be connected after the throttle body.
Did you block off the stock surge valve?
Take the "C" line from the solenoid and run it to the TurboXS.
Disconnect the "B" line at the stock surge valve and cap the nipple there. Also use a block off plate to seal the channels for the stock valve.
Take the "A" line from the valve and plug the nipple on the turbo outlet.
Everyone does it a little different, this is just one way.
Leave the electrical connection to the solenoid connected or it will throw a code.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No need to make it so complicated.
Basically the TurboXS line needs to be connected after the throttle body.
Did you block off the stock surge valve?
Take the "C" line from the solenoid and run it to the TurboXS.
Disconnect the "B" line at the stock surge valve and cap the nipple there. Also use a block off plate to seal the channels for the stock valve.
Take the "A" line from the valve and plug the nipple on the turbo outlet.
Everyone does it a little different, this is just one way.
Leave the electrical connection to the solenoid connected or it will throw a code.
No, the turboxs hybrid sml diverter valve replaces the stock surge valve. It's hooked up exactly where the block off plate would be. I'm getting this crazy noise that sounds like compressor surge with no flutter due to the valve opening enough for air to get by from idle till about 3k rpm and then it closes and blows off normally as soon as I let off the throttle. Once it closes it holds boost all the way till red line, it's only when I'm cruising that it's really annoying because from stop and go it sounds like a jet thats readying for take off on a runway.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here is a picture of the sml hybrid. It's got the triangle shape with that half moon opening on the bottom. I just lined up the half moon to the bottom to the half moon opening on the turbo. There is a vac line and straight vac line connector that comes with the unit and that's where I plumbed the pink line that was the same way the stock surge valve was setup.
 

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When I bought my car it had two BOV, the stock one and the another one in the upper pipe, at the beginning I tried to keep the stock one but when I tried a problem similar to the one you are describing started to happen, and the only way that my stock BOV would work is if I bypassed the solenoid however still had some leaks, so I gave up, and kept the aftermarket BOV directly connected to the TB.

So try bypassing the solenoid, and try it for a few days, if it works keep it that way, just make sure all other connections are correct and don't leave any loose ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When I bought my car it had two BOV, the stock one and the another one in the upper pipe, at the beginning I tried to keep the stock one but when I tried a problem similar to the one you are describing started to happen, and the only way that my stock BOV would work is if I bypassed the solenoid however still had some leaks, so I gave up, and kept the aftermarket BOV directly connected to the TB.

So try bypassing the solenoid, and try it for a few days, if it works keep it that way, just make sure all other connections are correct and don't leave any loose ends.
That's what I'm trying to do. The only difference is that my aftermarket bov sits @the stock location. How did you bypass the solenoid? Do you remember the size of vac line you used? I'm wondering if 5/16(8mm) would be the right size or maybe a size smaller? Happy 4th of July by the way everyone 😁
 

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My bad, I did not know it was one of those valves that takes the place of the stock.
Do everything I said and connect the TXS to a port between the TB and the head on the intake manifold. Technically there is only one, which is the brake booster line on the bottom of the manifold. It is a rather larger hose than normal so you will need a step down T.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My bad, I did not know it was one of those valves that takes the place of the stock.
Do everything I said and connect the TXS to a port between the TB and the head on the intake manifold. Technically there is only one, which is the brake booster line on the bottom of the manifold. It is a rather larger hose than normal so you will need a step down T.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around which lines are A,B,C lol. I understand which line of the TB to tap into.
 

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I'm still trying to wrap my head around which lines are A,B,C lol. I understand which line of the TB to tap into.
Ah, OK. The solenoid should be marked. But follow the lines in the picture to find which is A, B, C.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So, I did some digging and found this old thread from 2006 on compressor surge and bypassing the solenoid. So the guy used an F fitting and capped the barb sticking out by itself so he was left with a sideways U and unplugged the B line and stuck it into 1 port, unplugged line C and stuck it in the other. With line A being completely removed from the picture and capped off. Wonder if I would still have problems with my valve not closing during part throttle and normal driving?
 

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The port on the surge valves is usually on the 'top' side with the spring, so when you are at 0 vacuum the spring does most of the closing and as you transition to boost, that pressure plus the spring pressure keeps it close. As you transition back to vacuum, depending on the spring rating the valve should open up when vacuum goes above that rating, say 8-10 inHG.
This is why you connect the surge valve line between the TB and cylinder head. It needs to see both Vacuum and Boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So, I tried bypassing the solenoid by using a 3/16 F vacuum connector and capping off the solenoid #2 and long story short it made the whistle noise all the way through the rpms. I did notice something different when I hooked up everything back to normal though. I was driving along and didn't hear the noise and the car felt stronger, so I was curious and floored it lol 😂. I heard a really loud blow off under load and then no more blow off when I let off the throttle, so I pulled over and popped the hood and sure enough just as I suspected the wires from solenoid #2 blew off. I think the problem I'm having is actually a small boost leak on the vacuum harness because when the 3 hoses are super tight on the #2 solenoid I don't get the whistle noise during normal driving conditions. I'm gonna order a new vacuum harness and in the meantime I zip tied the vac lines that blew off the solenoid.

Is there an adhesive that is supposed to seal the 3 way vac lines to the solenoid or did they just blow off because they formed to the nipples on the solenoid for so long that they were loose from being taken off?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I did cap off the little nub on the F connector sticking out by itself. I put the pink and black line in the part that makes a U and capped the end of the blue line and all 3 solenoid ports... just in case anyone was wondering lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Got a new vacuum harness and it fixed it for the most part. Every now and then the surge valve will stay open during light load. Probably some kind of leaky seal somtewhere. At least it's not everytime I start from a stop or accelerate in a low rpm. Gonna look into a bov setup that goes on a uhp when I upgrade the interc
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Problem has completely went away. I think it might be the type of spring and the boost pressure. I have pretty high boost for a stock turbo car right now and the sv stays closed and opens only when im in boost now and no longer in vac. I was reading somethimg about a similar setup from forge and they stated that this kind of thing is normal for these setups and that the stock sv does it too, but it's just not audible.
 

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Anything other then the factory surge valve or factory surgevalve with the mopar blue plate you want to have a direct vacuum source. The pink line is only set up for the stock surgevalves 4lb spring. Those aftermarket diverter valves like the Boomba that go in the factory location need a direct vaccum source T'd off the throttle body port. The red factory line is a boost reference line that plugs into the upper pressure pipe on a PCM controlled boost vehicle. In my opinion. The stock surgevalve works great if it is not warped. I never had good luck with the Boomba BOV, its a bad design and leaked boost during a test.
 

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Anything other then the factory surge valve or factory surgevalve with the mopar blue plate you want to have a direct vacuum source. The pink line is only set up for the stock surgevalves 4lb spring. Those aftermarket diverter valves like the Boomba that go in the factory location need a direct vaccum source T'd off the throttle body port. The red factory line is a boost reference line that plugs into the upper pressure pipe on a PCM controlled boost vehicle. In my opinion. The stock surgevalve works great if it is not warped. I never had good luck with the Boomba BOV, its a bad design and leaked boost during a test.
My surgevalve is warped unfortunately so I'm trying to decide between replacing it or grabbing the TurboXS
 
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