372? U mean 392 scat? I had 1 before traded for hellcat. 372 I'm not sure of. Not correcting you just curious. But no I thought stock redline was 6250 I just wanted to 64-6500 to give myself cushion to not hit fuel cut. More of a safety measure. I don't take but to 5800 normally when winding gears. For all I know my redline has already been turned up with the larger turbo it would make since.
Hello all
Hey everyone I am new to srt4 I just got a heavily modified 04srt4 and I'm in Greenville South Carolina. Anyone know shops in the area that can tune or even work on srt's anymore? I'm new to the forum 1st time so I'm sorry I haven't been able to navigate the forums very well. I'm just wondering if any of you fellas or gals are in the area or know anyone in the area. Thanks again extremely happy to be here.
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I thought stage 2 back in the day was 6500 that's why I was asking.
Oh yea the 6.1 I forgot about those. I had buddy who loved his 300 that had it. I can't say I was a fan or not never personally had any experience with them. But it's mopar so I support it. Good call so caught up with 5.7 6.4 and of course 6.2 supercharged that I forgot about the 6.1
ive got a Borg s257 and its rated to produce 620 full tiltWow that sounds great, definitely have more done than mine. She sounds like she is already nasty. Great mods I believe ours are close, however you have built lower so that alone Is .ore than me. I couldn't tell you what mines running. But if you only have a walbro 255 then we might be pretty close on hp as I don't think we can run e85 with that small of pump as I've been told anyways. I hope I will be around 500hp. I've been going thru and fixing everything I got it a few weeks ago it was a mess they couldn't afford to take care of it or do shit the right way I guess. So many broken bolts I had to remove and replace. I don't think mine is strong at all atm maybe 270s who knows honestly never had on dyno but I own a hellcat also and used to be dsm back in the day so I know my butt dyno don't tell me it's 500hp as I knew what that felt like on fwd and it don't feel that way. I would like him to change my rev limiter to maybe 6600 without bottom built hoping that will be safe. I'm not sure mine has ever had a dyno it's like old owner threw parts on it then when he got tired it just got passed along with people fuc#ing with it who don't know what they doing. I'm not sure what I will end up at honestly 56trim with almost 90ar I'm guessing the turbo size is close to the same as yours who knows. I'm keeping it 15psi until it gets tuned tho supposedly they said it was tuned on 17psi however it was only on external gate of 12psi no controller whatsoever so 15 to stay safe according to my afr guage. I would love to see yours. Mine is I consider under construction atm it needs body work. But I just did whole inside and now engine then will do exterior. Guess could call it sleeper as she ugly lol
500-550 is fair to say an easy day for it
Yea i can get to 600 easily just need bigger injectors and bigger turbo , but im comfortable where its at now lol.ive got a Borg s257 and its rated to produce 620 full tilt
500-550 is fair to say an easy day for it
Jeez that's nice power 600 on not a real large turbo. That's pretty sweet. I'm guessing it's very efficient too. I have to dial in mine asap it's a agp 57trim I'm not sure what the possibilities are I just don't think I can get anywhere near 550 I might be wrong but seems high for mine. Maybe a tune e85 on 24ish psi maybe 5s not sure. Will findd out from Nigel I asked over email with my mods what he thinks he Said on his mustang dyno maybe 320s 🤣 I hope he is wrong I have everything larger but bottom end and I know bottom end could get to 500 but 320s I know he's good but has me wondering if I made the right choice. I'll find out on the 7th I guess.
Omg I'm so aggravated, I took srt4 out today and it felt very sahky I was like what the hell maybe it's me I look down can see clutch pedal and all shaking left to right violently while accelerating. I went to get new tires nope then I went mechanic maybe cv axle nope granted a little fluid leaking out drivers side seal output. But he noticed a broke tie rod very loose outer tie rod replaced it still the same but when changing 2nd and 3rd gear can hear it making groaning feeling/sound. So that didn't fix either still violent shaking under acceleration any gear. I'm afraid it's my mounts there all stock and engine shakes while idling when looking at them. So I ordered solid mounts upper and lower engine and transmission so 3. Not the dreaded 4th in the middle on passenger side I'll deal with that another day I guess once I'm sure this solves my problem. I'm so butt hurt it's literally scary shaking inside car and pedals thinking somethings gonna fall off. Freaking suxks. So I parked it back in driveway wait till agp mounts get here by Friday next week due to holiday Monday. Well actually ordered another brand I think modern performance I'll have to check. The 3 pack was only 220bucks still a little higher than agp but would arrive sooner. It's weird gears change fine. Mechanic said all the mounts need replaced lol 😆 fml it is what it is. I guess I shouldn't have turned up the boost. Hope everyone has a great weekend with no issues.
I looked email it's massive motor mounts solid mounts.
Shuddering during accel could be caused by worn clutch disc or warped pressure plate.
If you recently raised power and drove hard, I'd guess to see hotspots all over. Brakes do the same thing when beat on.
Open the clutch inspection plate and have a peek.
If you recently raised power and drove hard, I'd guess to see hotspots all over. Brakes do the same thing when beat on.
Open the clutch inspection plate and have a peek.
Yea I raised it like 2 psi but I never take off in 1st. Or really get on it hard. It doesn't slip in any gear but when accelerating 2nd or 3rd gear can look down and literally see all 3 pedals wiggling back and forth violently and whole car shaking once in 4th barely accelerating it almost goes away then once cruising nothing. I know all the mounts are in bad shape when I took to mechanic he said all are bad especially trans mount. When idling with hood open engine moves alot. I'm hoping it's the mounts. U could be correct tho for sure. I'm not sure how or where to look for the inspection plate though. I'll google it I guess. Once opened what would I be looking for exactly? Hotspots?
Last week after driving all was good. Then parked it then 1st time taking it out it did this so not sure it would be clutch randomly. But when letting off clutch after putting in 2nd or 3rd it seems to grab weird and feels as if it's grabbing very weird like shudder or something. But that's without throttle.
If you're unsure and have a mechanic, leave it to him. I guarantee he doesn't want some whack jobs speculation from the internet. Mounts are plausible as well.
I don't have any specific mechanic unfortunately I just moved to another state. I thought it would be cz axles so I called axle place that works on axles and once jacked in air he said u tie rod is bad and made my wheel wiggle he said that's the problem he repaired it still does it unfortunately.
And I Def don't think you are a whack job or have shifty opinions. People on here know these cars.
But would a southbend clutch randomly do that turning up a couple psi boost and only checking in 3rd about 3500-5500 to see when full boost comes on from adjusting new boost controller?
You're nice. I'm wrong more than I'm right. It could be a lot of things. I just like to start simple.And I Def don't think you are a whack job or have shifty opinions. People on here know these cars.
Used manual trans high torque vehicle having non performance issues? Driveline is my first suspect. Wheel bearing, tie rods, ball joints, axles, clutch. Motor mounts sound needed, but in my experience a revved up motor leans instead of shaking with bad mounts and only really imparts vibration (not an absolute by any means).
Front end is easy to diagnose usually.
- Jack up front of vehicle
- Shake tire left and right to test for tie rod play
- Shake tire up and down to test for ball joint play
- Listen for obvious humming from tires while driving for wheel bearing
- If the boots are good then check for any play. If none and it doesn't click while turning, you're fine.
Well I'm leaking fluid out the driver side axle but think it's just the seal where goes into trans.
Jack it up, grab the axle by the case and shake it. Should be rock solid. Ive heard that a fluid leak could cause spline damage. Fix that leak. The seal is like 10 bucks at Modern. You only really need a simple socket set and a breaker bar to do it. I bought a seal puller for ~$20 bucks to simplify things personally. You'll also need a new axle nut as their not reusable.
Technically, you should have a torque wrench as well but the torque spec on the axle nut is "tight as fuck". Direct quote, I swear 😉.
Technically, you should have a torque wrench as well but the torque spec on the axle nut is "tight as fuck". Direct quote, I swear 😉.
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