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Haltech Elite 1000 ECU Install

15K views 35 replies 10 participants last post by  shlangsterr 
#1 ·
This post will be in support of the Haltech Elite 1000 series ECU install for our SRT4s. The system looks pretty straight foward plug-and-play so any parameters outside of the paralleled plug system from the cars wiring harness to the Haltech will be indepthly covered. These systems are not cheap so I understand why people go for the AEM but since I've have the opportunity I believe the ECU system diserves an install thread.

I'll attach pictures as I go and include previous dyno pulls from the DSP program that went out on the car compared to the Haltech unit. The dyno pulls will vary greatly though as the car has been swapped from one fuel system and injectors to a more capable system as the car was seeing fuel cut at 4800 rpm on the dyno.

The car:

04' SRT4
Stage 3 ECU with 3 bar map/tip sensors
50 trim @ 25psi on e85
Manual boost controller & adjustable aftermarket wastegate
3" exhaust (stock style out the back)
AFX Wideband 02
Stock style coil and wires
Plugs gapped at .047" right now on the get by tune.
Stock head
Forged rods and pistons 8.8:1 CR
Stock crank
Big front mount intercooler
FIC 1100cc injectors-(ran 770cc @ 105% duty cycle via 58 psi on e85 at 4800rpm)
Boomba throttle body
Custom log style intake manifold
Perrin fuel rail
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
Mishimoto oil cooler
Walbro 255 intank fuel pump (no bottle neck)
Dyno stats from Mustang 2 Dyno: 388hp & 425tq with 10% loss from dyno that puts the car around about 426hp/472tq on the street if I'm lucky.

Current set up:
All system settings not changed from above are the same for the current set up.

Fuel:
2.5 Gal surge tank- 255 walbro feeds the tank and circulates fuel back to the main tank at all times. Bosch 044 (out of tank set up) pulls from surge tank to feed fuel pressure regulator,fuel rail and then recirculated back to surge tank.
-6an feed lines, -4an return lines
Fuel Injector Development 1300cc injectors @ 58psi.
New 3 bar MAP/TIP sensors from Modern Performance

ECU burnt out the injector drivers (my fault for starting the car first before shrink wrapping the crimps- to very they worked). So I'm waiting on the Haltech Elite 1000 unit for the SRT4 this week. More pictures and info to follow...
 
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#30 ·
Are you using High Impedance Injectors? I am not sure if the Haltech would have an issue with the injectors you have but most new EMS should not. Check to see though as you may need an injector driver box.
My vacuum with the cams I have has always been around 10-13 but like I said my brother recently switched his IACV to the one I am using and his car idles a lot better now as it reacts faster. He is using an AEM Infinity on his car which makes over 1,000HP on e85. He said he couldn't get the car to idle right and it would shut off. He used to use a injector driver box, but I am not sure if he still does with the Infinity.
 
#31 ·
Thanks gump for the link but I've already pulled the Crower S3 cams back out after about 3 days of driving back in August. They're just too much for the street and pump 93. They pulled my gas mileage down from 28 mpg to 10 mpg and that was 50% highway 50% city with a daily commute of less than 30 miles combined travel. They're great for a car launching at 3k rpm up to 8k+ rpm but not very streatable with them coming onto they're powerband from vacuum at around 2800 rpm. No torque on the cruise side due to the 110 degree lobe seperation angle but those leakdown hydraulic lifters would've brought the vacuum signal from 12" to probably the normal 20-22" at idle. There's alot to be had on a stock cam grind or just a simple 2.0 neon cam swap to provide an ample power for the curve they have with a good vacuum signal at idle.

I really want to get another daily (truck) and pull this engine and give it the full workover, tune up and restoration. It's not bad but small things need to be done now like rasp the cam caps to a 45 degree edge on the exhaust side as one is making the infamouse tick at 2k rpm and below.

Pull engine and completely rewire the entire harness as they're are too many years of random wire clipping a tapping on this poor harness and not to include the general engine bay setup and orginization is and aboslute cluster f$%!.

I also would like to overhaul the transmission as the clutch chatter at idle is annoying. I can feel the pivot ball and the clutch fork starting to wear (possible clutch adjustment but height and releasepoint feel almost the usual). The 3rd gear grinds on cold drives and 1st and 2nd on low speed down shifts are hard to get in not to include I need to shift to 1st then to reverse to get reverse to not act like it wants to grind/lock me out. I'm sure the passenger axle needs love too as it has tiny bad cv nuckle crunchy sounds at full left turn in reverse.

As usual these things come up on a used car with 128,xxx miles and especiallyon our cars. I just need to give her the love she needs and keep her going as I'm not wanting to part with it really ever.

BTW Hybridkid how hard was it to tune that ford IACV? Is it a stepper motor with a 2 wire, 3 wire or 4 wire setup?
 
#32 ·
#33 ·
Hey hybrid. How did you go about mounting that cobra IACV? Im assuming it doesnt bolt right up?

Is a standalone required to run a differnt style IAC??? I have the 'upgraded' DCR IACV, but haven't installed it yet.
 
#34 ·
Hey hybrid. How did you go about mounting that cobra IACV? Im assuming it doesnt bolt right up?

Is a standalone required to run a differnt style IAC??? I have the 'upgraded' DCR IACV, but haven't installed it yet.
I run a 75mm Wilson "Ford" 5.0 TB so the IAC bolts directly to it.
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