[**Big Blue**]

You know I haven't tried/thought of that lol. I'll bring it down a few psi until it stops the lean pop. Sometimes I get the stupid and forget the small things. Thanks for bringing me back to reality.?‍♂

 

[gump1114]

You know I haven't tried/thought of that lol. I'll bring it down a few psi until it stops the lean pop. Sometimes I get the stupid and forget the small things. Thanks for bringing me back to reality.?‍♂

if that works... great!! haha, your ECU and all that is way more advanced than my dsp.... hopefully i was able to help.

 

[**Big Blue**]

Went out and turned down the fuel to 50 psi. I changed all the injector settings to 14% less than what they were to reflect what a correct correlation the injectors should be set at with that fuel pressure. This stopped the lean popping (smoothing out the injector's duty cycle and pulse width and made the PW cycle longer reflecting in more duty for the injectors at idle) but this made the idle very irradic and started to make it fluctuate up and down in rpm until it eventually stalled after about 5 seconds after the shift in rpm came along. This symptom would come and go after about 2 mins of idling or about a minute after I used the throttle to keep the car alive once I sensed the issue coming along. No idle control setting would help the issue but once I reverted back to the original injector settings and kept 50 psi of fuel pressure the car smoothed back out at idle. This brought back the lean popping at 14.7:1 AFR but if i brought the AFR back down to 13.8:1 the pulse width (duty cycle) of the injectors seemed to stop the lean pop/misfiring. It seems the car needs either bigger cams or smaller injectors.

I do have crower (not BC) stage three cams sitting around lol but those have about a 10 mile per gallon fuel rate lol.

Yet those 888 injectors would still support my needs. Maybe I'll frankenstien some injectors seats to the intake for secondary injectors for when I go e85 again with those 888s. Then I wouldn't need to change injectors and maps on the weekends. I know the Haltech could support that task as I seen them run 16 injectors on a methanol-twin turbo set-ups at the track before. To be continued...

 

[HybridKid]

Are you using the stock IAC valve?

 

[**Big Blue**]

Yeah I have it plugged to a relay running on a ignition switched 12V source and the Haltech controls the ground source at the IAC. This is due to the old stage 3 PCM not playing nice with the Haltech and the piggy back/parrallel harness causing no control at the IAC. Reason being is the Stage 3 PCM fluctuated positive voltage to control the IAC and the Haltech did the same but with the ground. This caused extremely irraddic and often times no functions from the IAC. It works fine when the car is back to it's slightly rich idle condition and being controlled with the Haltech it's just when it starts teetering to lean stoich and the injectors changed to the previous state that it does fluctuate the idle. I tried to richen up the map around idle to control this issue but it did no good even with about a 10% fuel enrichment. I'm going to recalibrate the NGK O2 sensor at free air again and see what it reads then. It's been about 6 months so it needs it.

If nothing then, I'll order the 888s and try them. They're cheap for injectors at under $200. I don't want to throw $450 for 4 injectors like I did last time for the FIDs. ?

 

[HybridKid]

This is why the Electromotive and AEM would be difficult to catch the idle and I went full standalone with wideband and Ford IACV. This is with a 75MM TB and 2300cc injectors, idle is fine. The stock PCM only controls part of the A/C, Cluster RPM and Speed.

 

[**Big Blue**]

Those are some monstrous injectors and throttle body. I pulled my 70mm TB due to a vacuum leak around the throttle shaft and blade. I went down to a 62mm a boy what a difference in throttle performance. I miss my 70mm throttle body already. Which model cam do you have in you car? I hate asking that because I more about whst the cam profile looks like and it's LSA not "what stage you got bro?". Regardless, I noticed my car's idle did idle around 1000 rpm due to the persistent TB leak (70mm not the 62mm TB) but didn't pop at all when I had my crower S3 cam in with the AFR at stoich. These injectors may be defective or just absolutely hate short pulse widths. I'd rather try out a more common injector for our cars than tracking down a potential slightly sticky injector at idle, seeing as this car is staying on pump 93 at the moment. I'm just trying to get this thing to perform great with what it has and not much more. I'm more interested in getting it ready to be built into a track car instead of a drag car. Up to 400hp on pump 93 is plenty for a stock style cam as I want it to be in a somewhat limted class for it's future use with a smooth rpm powerband at 3k rpm and up to be competitive but not walk itself into a class where it's out of it's league.

I want to go ahead and start other projects in the next 10 years so this car is just my daily.

*** Caution me rambling***

I have my mind on any of the following vehicles that come across my path for me to modify and get myself busy on (money depedent):

55' Chevrolet Belair-4 door with a twin turbo LS (without killing a nice restored one) There's a respectable one here in VA on FB marketplace for $6500

97' Chevrolet single cab long bed muscle truck (jet black paint, ITB fuel injected V8 2" lift in the rear with 35" tires, chrome front brush gaurd, selectable auto/manual shifted 4L80e trandmission)

NA or NB Track set up ITB 1.8L or LS1 Miata

50' Pontiac Chieftain 4 door (bagged but not slammed to the ground) original straight eight but adapted via a trans plate mounted to a 700R4 to get the Wife an automatic tranny car that'll keep up safely with highway traffic.

Plus many more!

I want to start an automotive restoration and performance shop on the side after I retire from the military following these next 10 years. This is just me brainstorming, but I'll need to network hard here in VA and in these coming 10 years where ever I go to get my name out there and what I got going on.

 

[HybridKid]

I pulled 1500cc injectors out to put these in, didn't even have 50 miles on them, still have the 1500cc but will probably end up selling them. I thought it was the injectors but it wasn't when I was having some issues, it was actually the way they were seated, my error, they were not shooting straight into the intake port.
The cams are some custom ground ones I got from Nemo, back in the days before they had all these other cams come into the market. I sent them to Crane to have them checked and profiled a while back but I cannot recall what they compare to now. They work and I am not worrying about the specs since they seem to do well all through the RPM from idle to WOT.
Sorry I cannot be more helpful than that with the cams.

 

[gump1114]

Go here...
https://www.modernperformance.com/product/rhoads-lash-adjusters-20l-and-24l-dohc/03-05-neon-srt-4-engine-heads-camshafts-valvetrain


And read the description. This is out of my realm of experience since I haven’t done any head work yet, but what MPx is talking about seems to be the same issue you’re having. Just food for thought.

 

[HybridKid]

Are you using High Impedance Injectors? I am not sure if the Haltech would have an issue with the injectors you have but most new EMS should not. Check to see though as you may need an injector driver box.
My vacuum with the cams I have has always been around 10-13 but like I said my brother recently switched his IACV to the one I am using and his car idles a lot better now as it reacts faster. He is using an AEM Infinity on his car which makes over 1,000HP on e85. He said he couldn't get the car to idle right and it would shut off. He used to use a injector driver box, but I am not sure if he still does with the Infinity.

 

[**Big Blue**]

Thanks gump for the link but I've already pulled the Crower S3 cams back out after about 3 days of driving back in August. They're just too much for the street and pump 93. They pulled my gas mileage down from 28 mpg to 10 mpg and that was 50% highway 50% city with a daily commute of less than 30 miles combined travel. They're great for a car launching at 3k rpm up to 8k+ rpm but not very streatable with them coming onto they're powerband from vacuum at around 2800 rpm. No torque on the cruise side due to the 110 degree lobe seperation angle but those leakdown hydraulic lifters would've brought the vacuum signal from 12" to probably the normal 20-22" at idle. There's alot to be had on a stock cam grind or just a simple 2.0 neon cam swap to provide an ample power for the curve they have with a good vacuum signal at idle.

I really want to get another daily (truck) and pull this engine and give it the full workover, tune up and restoration. It's not bad but small things need to be done now like rasp the cam caps to a 45 degree edge on the exhaust side as one is making the infamouse tick at 2k rpm and below.

Pull engine and completely rewire the entire harness as they're are too many years of random wire clipping a tapping on this poor harness and not to include the general engine bay setup and orginization is and aboslute cluster f$%!.

I also would like to overhaul the transmission as the clutch chatter at idle is annoying. I can feel the pivot ball and the clutch fork starting to wear (possible clutch adjustment but height and releasepoint feel almost the usual). The 3rd gear grinds on cold drives and 1st and 2nd on low speed down shifts are hard to get in not to include I need to shift to 1st then to reverse to get reverse to not act like it wants to grind/lock me out. I'm sure the passenger axle needs love too as it has tiny bad cv nuckle crunchy sounds at full left turn in reverse.

As usual these things come up on a used car with 128,xxx miles and especiallyon our cars. I just need to give her the love she needs and keep her going as I'm not wanting to part with it really ever.

BTW Hybridkid how hard was it to tune that ford IACV? Is it a stepper motor with a 2 wire, 3 wire or 4 wire setup?

 

[HybridKid]

This is the IAC I am using now. The old one was old :smile: and meant for NA cars, so I have a feeling it has been leaking for years. The new one is for the Mustang 4.6 Supercharged and I figured it would work better for a boosted car as it was meant for one and it did.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5403699&cc=1410578&jsn=455

 

[OffTheWall]

Hey hybrid. How did you go about mounting that cobra IACV? Im assuming it doesnt bolt right up?

Is a standalone required to run a differnt style IAC??? I have the 'upgraded' DCR IACV, but haven't installed it yet.

 

[HybridKid]

Hey hybrid. How did you go about mounting that cobra IACV? Im assuming it doesnt bolt right up?

Is a standalone required to run a differnt style IAC??? I have the 'upgraded' DCR IACV, but haven't installed it yet.

I run a 75mm Wilson "Ford" 5.0 TB so the IAC bolts directly to it.