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Discussion Starter #1
This post will be in support of the Haltech Elite 1000 series ECU install for our SRT4s. The system looks pretty straight foward plug-and-play so any parameters outside of the paralleled plug system from the cars wiring harness to the Haltech will be indepthly covered. These systems are not cheap so I understand why people go for the AEM but since I've have the opportunity I believe the ECU system diserves an install thread.

I'll attach pictures as I go and include previous dyno pulls from the DSP program that went out on the car compared to the Haltech unit. The dyno pulls will vary greatly though as the car has been swapped from one fuel system and injectors to a more capable system as the car was seeing fuel cut at 4800 rpm on the dyno.

The car:

04' SRT4
Stage 3 ECU with 3 bar map/tip sensors
50 trim @ 25psi on e85
Manual boost controller & adjustable aftermarket wastegate
3" exhaust (stock style out the back)
AFX Wideband 02
Stock style coil and wires
Plugs gapped at .047" right now on the get by tune.
Stock head
Forged rods and pistons 8.8:1 CR
Stock crank
Big front mount intercooler
FIC 1100cc injectors-(ran 770cc @ 105% duty cycle via 58 psi on e85 at 4800rpm)
Boomba throttle body
Custom log style intake manifold
Perrin fuel rail
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
Mishimoto oil cooler
Walbro 255 intank fuel pump (no bottle neck)
Dyno stats from Mustang 2 Dyno: 388hp & 425tq with 10% loss from dyno that puts the car around about 426hp/472tq on the street if I'm lucky.

Current set up:
All system settings not changed from above are the same for the current set up.

Fuel:
2.5 Gal surge tank- 255 walbro feeds the tank and circulates fuel back to the main tank at all times. Bosch 044 (out of tank set up) pulls from surge tank to feed fuel pressure regulator,fuel rail and then recirculated back to surge tank.
-6an feed lines, -4an return lines
Fuel Injector Development 1300cc injectors @ 58psi.
New 3 bar MAP/TIP sensors from Modern Performance

ECU burnt out the injector drivers (my fault for starting the car first before shrink wrapping the crimps- to very they worked). So I'm waiting on the Haltech Elite 1000 unit for the SRT4 this week. More pictures and info to follow...
 

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The fixed dyno sheet: timing pulled maximized fuel and injector pulse width to bring down the duty cycle from 117% to 105% ( still terrible but it lived for daily driving while avoiding any WOT pulls in 4th and 5th gear from a low rpm), best as we could get it but at least it smoothed out the power curve for us.
 

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Thank you for sharing! I'm interested in moving to the Elite 1500 setup, myself. Looking forward to hearing how it went, and what the final results are.
 

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Looks good! I'm getting ready for a 1500 myself. Cant wait to see what Haltech can do.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The Harness install: note the parallel harness is about 4-5" in length but once you plug it into the old ECU, the female end tends to get jammed between the charge pipe and the frame of the car. If you keep the harness vertical (the female end pointing out towards you) it'll be able to plug in and stay upwards for you to plug the original harness into the new one. If you've relocated your original ECU from the radiator support you can probably avoid this tangle up.

The last picture is of the Ignition Control Module. This should be mounted in a cool place to allow the provided aluminum bracket to absorb heat and disperse it away from the controller. I mounted mine on the battery tray, on the front, hanging down next to my catch can. I'll figure out if this is a good location once I add the rolling two step, launch control and no-lift-shift functions later on and see if it gives me any hiccups 9over heating and outputting any crazy readings) once I test and tune those functions. The ignitor comes with a secondary plug and pins but they are not needed as the ignitor connects directly to the parallel wiring harness provided by the male connector attached to the harness. Just plug it in!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The following will cover miscillaneous connections the Haltech needs to function correctly.

First off is the WIDE BAND O2 SENSOR:

The Haltech requires a full time 0-5V signal from a stand alone wideband. This function CANNOT be remedied by the
pre/post cat O2 sensors. The Haltech system needs a seperate signal source as the original ECU untilizes the Pre/Post
cat signals and are left alone. I am currently running an old school AFX wideband unit by NGK.
This unit does have the ability to output a 0-5V signal and will be utilized for the ECU as it'll be spliced and routed appropriately.

The following is how to hook up the wideband to the Haltech unit. You can follow this guide for which ever stand alone O2 sensor you have as long as you meet the required connections of a 0-5V output and a source ground.

NGK AFX wide band plug:
White wire (pin 6): 0-5V signal wire
Blue wire (pin 5): Source ground (This wire is not required to be pinned into the Haltech unit but is highly recommended, if not utilized then the Haltech will have to provide the source ground and could develope some interference from other components feeding off this same source ground.)

O2 outputs to the Haltech: Utilize the ECU connector (26 pin) plug for the following:

White wire (0-5V signal)-> to pin B13 AVI 1- This is a Analog Input for the ECU.
Blue wire (source ground)-> to pin B14 Signal Ground

Note: Once installed go to the Haltech Main menu by selecting the Gear icon on the main screen once the ECU is connected->
select the Wideband sensor and change the input to B13-AVI 1. B14 is always signal ground so keep your grubby hands off it.


E85 SENSOR:

I have unfortunately fell into the gimmick of purchasing something from a 4th party dealer. Yes, let me explain... Haltech
purchases their E85 sensor from AEM and AEM pretty much purchases any GM off the shelf sensor and throws a few $10 -6AN 3/8" barb fittings in the bag and retails it out. Save your money and buy a generic GM E85 sensor from Amazon and add two -6AN 3/8" barb adapter fittings to the purchase. The sensor package I paid Haltech $285 for can be had for the following:

E85 Sensor off Amazon (exact sensor from AEM "shape and size"): $35
Pig tail for sensor: $9
-6AN 3/8" barb fitting: $22 for two
Total: $66

How to hook up:
The sensor requires a common ground, 12V power source and the sensor will output a 50Hz to 150Hz signal on the 3rd wire from the pigtail. For the Haltech unit please see the pictures below for a more in depth view of the manual if the need arises.

The sensor:
A 12V source is sent to the sensor, mine is near the rear of the car connecting the -6AN lines of the sensor into the fuel
mainline between the surge tank and the fuel rail. Haltech recommends placing the sensor on the return line side of the
fuel system and I'll eventually get around to changing that here in the near future. The 12V source I provided to the sensor
is activated by a 30 amp 4 pin relay from O'riellys and is also line fused by a 5 amp fuse. The relay is activated by a ingnition key on source.

Ground is common to the chassis.

The ouput wire is colored yellow on my unit "corn powered lol", this wire is routed to the ECU input on the
(26 pin ECU connector) -> pin B7 (SPI 4). Note: This signal is an Syncronized Pulsed (50Hz to 150Hz square wave) input so use any of the SPI pin inputs you wish, just change the input reference pin of the 26 pin plug you used and select it on the ECU under the Main menu. Also be sure that you use the PULL UP funtion for the sensor. DO NOT SKIP THIS or you'll have to trouble shoot for 30 minutes like I did until I found this function. You can tell if the sensor is working by returning to the home screen-> adding a sensor gauge by selecting the gauge icon-> select analog gauge-> right click on the blank box that pops up-> select channel->
add the channel under SPI 4 Frequency. Also do this procedure for a second analog gauge for the home screen and add the E85 sensor channel. Both of these should provide proof that the sensor is working. My sensor picked up my tank being filled with 80% E85 (on the ethanol content screen) and outputting a 130Hz signal to the SPI 4 synchronized pulsed input. Makes me want to kick the Valero I fill up at in the nuts, "sigh" but it is what it is.

MISCELLANOUS WIRES:

The tuner had an issue trying to get the car to idle correctly so I had to find the Idle Air Control circuit wires and
see what they pinned out to be and see if the Haltech was picking up these as a pin to effectively control the IAC by. Unfortunately
the parallel harness was not connecting the IAC to the correct output on the 34 pin harness. After some digging we found that
Pin A23 of the ECU connector (ECU connector-34 pin) plug had been plugged to A23, i.e. not the IAC output control pin channel the Haltech was using. The other pin of the IAC reference to ground on the IAC motor control. We changed the IAC control output pin of the ECU under the main screen-> IAC Control-> to A23. This allowed the Haltech to control the IAC.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The last of the pictures for the last post.

Does anyone know if the site admin can grant me anymore space for this thread? I have about 20-25 more pictures of installing the actual ECU in the car and how to add the OEM ACT sensor to the Haltech system. I need more user space! Any help towards this would be great.:lol::grin:
 

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This is all fantastic detail! Thank you for sharing! Looking forward to the rest..
 

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Still working on the Haltech and street tuning so hang in there guys! The install is complete and I've been working out a few bugs that'll be implemented into the posts here soon. I'm just finishing up the 93 tune and then I'll flex fuel tune it to E85 and run it on the dyno. Just taking more time than I anticipated as I'm jumping through the normal SRT4 loops and bugs and also learning the Haltech system.

Please ask questions if you got them as I'm not keeping everything I'm learning to myself.
 

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This is awesome-- thanks for sharing. I installed the same setup in my PT GT and ran into a lot of the same issues you did (flex fuel sensor and IAC) and some other minor ones (PT doesn't have a clutch pedal upstop switch wired to the stock ECU). Interested to see how you wired up the charge temp sensor as that's one thing I haven't touched yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Chris I appreciate that. I'm still working out the wiring harness cleanup and just added crower stage 3 cams. I need to start some more tuning again and jump it back on the dyno so I can finish up this thread. E85 tuning map sequence will also be added as long as the thread doesn't limit me to such few pictures.

The car burnt an intake valve due to a wiring issue at the #1 cylinder injector so it was running lean once at operating temp. New head valve springs, seals and a head gasket and I'll be back to wrapping up this task.

BTW I'm moving to Portsmouth, VA here in January. I'll be looking for a few VA SRT4 guys out there so keep your eyes peeled and don't be shy to start a conversation.
 

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I have lots of experience with the Haltech ELITE series of products, they are all great, easy to install and to tune. Be adviced though: AFR corrections are less than ideal with a 0-5V analog wideband and tuning PID for this can be tricky at times. When you get the opportunity, go for the CAN Wideband module they sell. It is VERY expensive for a wideband, but works great with the ELITE ecu.

good luck
 

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Did you ever get this completed?
 

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The car is running now but still isn't 100%. I've had to fix alot of bugs and then move to VA. I'm probably going to have to get that nice Haltech wideband as my old NGK is effective but slow when considering other units. I just pulled a bunch of fuel and a few degrees of timing to get it to crank in this below freezing weather. It was backfiring pretty bad lately.

My next headache is the fact that the ignition map wants very low timing numbers at WOT. The car goes from 32 degrees of timing down to 1 to 2 degrees advanced timing to keep the knock below it's threshold that'swith me reviewing a data log and looking for knock. It doesnt make sense to me so I might enlist some help to figure it out as I've seen others running 20-25 degrees timing at WOT in the 6000 rpm range with a 50 trim and pump 93.

The control of everything the Haltech provides is outstanding though so I give it lots of credit for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
neonGT35 I may need some help with this Haltech, a few maps may need your review so you can see what I'm working with. Where you located?
 

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Oh and btw I had my tuner recommend some FID 1300cc injectors for my build and they're lean popping at idle pretty bad so I'm about the change them out for some 888s to get my AFRs at idle from 13:1 back to 14.7:1. It's rich pretty bad!
 

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Oh and btw I had my tuner recommend some FID 1300cc injectors for my build and they're lean popping at idle pretty bad so I'm about the change them out for some 888s to get my AFRs at idle from 13:1 back to 14.7:1. It's rich pretty bad!
could you not just lower the fuel pressure some at idle? i assume you have a raising rate FPR.
 
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