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2004 Eblue SRT-4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What’s up guys,

Anybody familiar with grounding kits made for these cars? I’m looking at the one from FWD Performance, and thinking about upgrading since I was cleaning/inspecting my engine bay yesterday and noticed that some of the factory grounds are getting old. I might’ve accidentally touched something because I went for a little drive and every 5 min or so, the ABS/E-brake light comes on, then disappears shortly after.

I have read here on the forums it could be ground related, since this has never happened to me before. Some also say it could be related to the noise suppressor on the back of the drivers side block. Any ideas?
 

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i've had grounding issues.
suggest
  • run a heavy (10ga or bigger ) from head to passenger strut tower
  • clean ground on starter bolt, wire to battery
  • move inner fender ground near fuse box to strut bolt
  • often ground wires to front struts to inner fenders fray/brake
 
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2004 Eblue SRT-4
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i've had grounding issues.
suggest
  • run a heavy (10ga or bigger ) from head to passenger strut tower
  • clean ground on starter bolt, wire to battery
  • move inner fender ground near fuse box to strut bolt
  • often ground wires to front struts to inner fenders fray/brake
For the factory ground wire on the passenger side near the top torque mount that runs to the back of the block, should I remove that completely and replace with thicker wire or leave the factory one there and add the thicker gauge while retaining the factory ground?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Since 2007, I have been using two heavy (thick) battery cables as ground wires on my car.
Seems to work pretty good.

1. The longer 712994 4-Gauge 29" Black $9.29 (NAPA)
This is a net addition of a grounding wire where none existed before.
From the negative (-ive) terminal on the battery to the front of the cylinder head

2. The shorter 712394 4-Gauge 23" Black $7.19 (NAPA)
This completely replaces the stock skinny "speaker" wire on the passenger side.
From the shock tower adjacent to where the top mount bolts up to
to the back of the cylinder head (sorry no picture)
where the other end of the skinny "speaker" wire used to bolt up to.
View attachment 148768
View attachment 148769
View attachment 148770
That looks good, I will stop by NAPA to get some. Do you think having a bad ground(s) will lead to my ABS/e-brake light popping up and then disappearing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There is a RED BRAKE light that goes on when the hand brake in engaged.
It may come on intermittently, when parked on a hill or when braoking hard.
Check the BRAKE FLUID reservoir is low.
Do the research here, there are lots of hits for BRAKE LIGHT ON.

There is a YELLOW ABS light that goes on during startup.
It should not come on once the motor is running.
If it doesn, then one possibility could be the ABS wheel sensors.
Check if an ABS sensor wire is loose
Do the research here, there are lots of hits for ABS LIGHT ON.
If you read, my ABS/e-brake light comes on at the same time, then disappears at the same time within 5 seconds. I’ve done the research already and it seems like everyone says positive battery terminal hitting the CAI, weak grounds, brake fluid and ABS sensor. All is good except I’m concerned about my factory grounds. I’m asking if you think that might be the culprit to the quick dash lights that appear and goes away. If there was really a problem with the abs and e-brake, I believe the light will stay on and possibly come on individually.
 

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If you read, my ABS/e-brake light comes on at the same time, then disappears at the same time within 5 seconds. I’ve done the research already and it seems like everyone says positive battery terminal hitting the CAI, weak grounds, brake fluid and ABS sensor. All is good except I’m concerned about my factory grounds. I’m asking if you think that might be the culprit to the quick dash lights that appear and goes away. If there was really a problem with the abs and e-brake, I believe the light will stay on and possibly come on individually.
You know, it really was UNCLEAR what EXACTLY you were talking about when you said:
my ABS/e-brake light comes on at the same time

if you had said
my ABS AND e-brake lightS BOTH come on at the same time
I would have ignored your question because I have no clue why that would be.

All I was trying to do was suggest that you could make your own grounding kit.
And maybe save some money.

So good luck figuring it out for yourself. :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
View attachment 148781


You know, it really was UNCLEAR what EXACTLY you were talking about when you said:
my ABS/e-brake light comes on at the same time

if you had said
my ABS AND e-brake lightS BOTH come on at the same time
I would have ignored your question because I have no clue why that would be.

All I was trying to do was suggest that you could make your own grounding kit.
And maybe save some money.

So good luck figuring it out for yourself. :mad:
My apologies I didn’t mean to offend you, I put abs with a slash followed by e-brake with the slash meaning And.
Thanks anyways.
 

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My apologies I didn’t mean to offend you, I put abs with a slash followed by e-brake with the slash meaning And.
Thanks anyways.
Haha oh OK.
Not sure what kind of communication notation that use of slash may be.
And LIGHTS (plural) would make more sense than just LIGHT (singular).
Because there are TWO lights, RED BRAKE and YELLOW ABS.
But no worries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Haha oh OK.
Not sure what kind of communication notation that use of slash may be.
And LIGHTS (plural) would make more sense than just LIGHT (singular).
Because there are TWO lights, RED BRAKE and YELLOW ABS.
But no worries.
I can be terrible at grammar sometimes.
One more thing, if you want to help me, where can I find a battery tie down? That little plate that holds the battery down.
 

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I can be terrible at grammar sometimes.
One more thing, if you want to help me, where can I find a battery tie down? That little plate that holds the battery down.
Me too. And then people get pissed. Heavy sigh.

I looked for a battery hold down plate and the nut that goes with it (13mm if memory serves).
But didn't find anyone selling one.

Mybe fab up a holddown plate yourself?
Or adapt a generic over-the-top hoop design?

Probably not a good idea to be dring around whout something to keep the battery planted.
 

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Why would you upgrade to a 250 amp alternator?
Just curious, especially these days with low wattage LED's.
Thanks.
Few thousand watts of amplification, 2 batteries and twin 0 guge runs i was getting over 1.5V of drop between the front and back. A mechman 250 solved that problem.


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