what happened to it exactly?
Greddy Type RS BOV... any good?
Well my HKS SSQ took a shit, and now im scared to buy another HKS SSQ BOV. What do you guys think of the Greedy RS BOV?? Is that better then the HKS SSQ or should I buy another HKS SSQ BOV??
I mean I had the SSQ for like 600-700 miles, and it broke. :stab: :stab: :stab: :buah:
I mean I had the SSQ for like 600-700 miles, and it broke. :stab: :stab: :stab: :buah:
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Driving normally it got stuck, and the black plastic piece that says SSQ came apart; it was blowing constantly (wouldnt close). It was sideways and the holder behind it was moving around. I opened up the bov, fixed the black piece so it was same way and hooked it back up. Now it wont release air at all, doesnt do shit. Now its a awesome looking plate. :stab:
i have the rs and i like it so far,but want to get the hks or the type s...
The only thing I don't like with my RS is that when everything is really warm/hot, when you drive normally (out of boost) you decelerate and the engine is in vacuum, the BOV whistles for a few seconds. It goes away when you idle. I tried adjusting this valve from "weak ass tension" all the way to max tension on the spring but it still whistles. This problem is not there when the car is cold so as the air gets warm, something expands and air is getting through.
Not sure exactly where this valve is sucking air while in vacuum but it is a really ennoying problem. I tried teflon tape on the adjustment screw on top with no success. Dismantled the valve and cleaned = still whistles. The membrane is ok, no holes or anything like that. I think my next step will be to put some silicone over the nut that holds the cup under which the membrane is located. Perhaps some air is getting sucked through the shaft that leads to that nut while in vacuum.
I guess my next step if it doesn't work will be to buy a new one instead of a used one....:stab:
Not sure exactly where this valve is sucking air while in vacuum but it is a really ennoying problem. I tried teflon tape on the adjustment screw on top with no success. Dismantled the valve and cleaned = still whistles. The membrane is ok, no holes or anything like that. I think my next step will be to put some silicone over the nut that holds the cup under which the membrane is located. Perhaps some air is getting sucked through the shaft that leads to that nut while in vacuum.
I guess my next step if it doesn't work will be to buy a new one instead of a used one....:stab:
Well I bought the Greddy Type RS. Im scared to get another HKS SSQ due to the stupid ass plastic part inside that broke. I put my coldside pipe back on, so im gonna finished it all up tonight with a leak test.
The only thing that sucks is my fitment with the coldside is worse. I cant seem to get it the way I had it before. I dont know what I did before to make the spacing from the slave cyclinder that large. Now I have zero room. its almost touching :eeeek:
The only thing that sucks is my fitment with the coldside is worse. I cant seem to get it the way I had it before. I dont know what I did before to make the spacing from the slave cyclinder that large. Now I have zero room. its almost touching :eeeek:
ALL RS's do it:gay: Mine started doing it again after a friend moved the nut around:grimrippeMikeCrowsoft said:The only thing I don't like with my RS is that when everything is really warm/hot, when you drive normally (out of boost) you decelerate and the engine is in vacuum, the BOV whistles for a few seconds. It goes away when you idle. I tried adjusting this valve from "weak ass tension" all the way to max tension on the spring but it still whistles. This problem is not there when the car is cold so as the air gets warm, something expands and air is getting through.
Not sure exactly where this valve is sucking air while in vacuum but it is a really ennoying problem. I tried teflon tape on the adjustment screw on top with no success. Dismantled the valve and cleaned = still whistles. The membrane is ok, no holes or anything like that. I think my next step will be to put some silicone over the nut that holds the cup under which the membrane is located. Perhaps some air is getting sucked through the shaft that leads to that nut while in vacuum.
I guess my next step if it doesn't work will be to buy a new one instead of a used one....:stab:
Like you, I tried everything to rid the whisteling, and out of desperation, I bought a new one only to find that this is not a dysfuntion. I actually bought a brand new GReddy RS and it sounds exactly the same..MikeCrowsoft said:The only thing I don't like with my RS is that when everything is really warm/hot, when you drive normally (out of boost) you decelerate and the engine is in vacuum, the BOV whistles for a few seconds. It goes away when you idle. I tried adjusting this valve from "weak ass tension" all the way to max tension on the spring but it still whistles. This problem is not there when the car is cold so as the air gets warm, something expands and air is getting through.
Not sure exactly where this valve is sucking air while in vacuum but it is a really ennoying problem. I tried teflon tape on the adjustment screw on top with no success. Dismantled the valve and cleaned = still whistles. The membrane is ok, no holes or anything like that. I think my next step will be to put some silicone over the nut that holds the cup under which the membrane is located. Perhaps some air is getting sucked through the shaft that leads to that nut while in vacuum.
I guess my next step if it doesn't work will be to buy a new one instead of a used one....:stab:
Anyways, I like it- it's not LOUD but definitely not a quiet one.
It's practically not audible when driving normally, but you know it's there when you WOT (between gears)-
I've heard some other ones like the raptor, and I wouldn't trade mine for it.
The "pssssshhhhh" may not be as loud as some other BOV's, but it definitely holds out longer. _ I say YAY
I hope the greddy RS is good.
So that sound you guys are getting during acceleration; is that a possible boost leak???
Im testing for leaks tonight.
So that sound you guys are getting during acceleration; is that a possible boost leak???
Im testing for leaks tonight.
I like the RS. The install's a lot less cumbersome than the HKS snap ring fiasco. I don't really hear the whistle that others complain about. I RTV'd the hell out of mine during installation. I'm running it along with the stock surge vavle and you can still hear it.
Did any of you guys have to adjust the nut on top to hold boost, or just to work properly???
Greedy is good, HKS is good also. I say go Greddy and our UPP pipe since we will be having a GB on them this month. Should be a very good savings for you if you go this route.
ptperformance said:Greedy is good, HKS is good also. I say go Greddy and our UPP pipe since we will be having a GB on them this month. Should be a very good savings for you if you go this route.
I have the Exhaust depot pipes right now. So far they are good, but at times fitment is a bitch.
I'm not saying YOURS is not, but the RS WILL whistel upon deacceleration and once you let off the gas_ It's normal manturbo313 said:is that a possible boost leak??? .
Our pipes are the best fitting on the market, no questions asked and garenteed. They will not hit the air box they will not hit the slave cyl for the clutch and they come with some of the best silicone in the industry.turbo313 said:ptperformance said:Greedy is good, HKS is good also. I say go Greddy and our UPP pipe since we will be having a GB on them this month. Should be a very good savings for you if you go this route.
I have the Exhaust depot pipes right now. So far they are good, but at times fitment is a bitch.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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