Dodge SRT Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
somehow paint got on my other car and theres splatter on the roof, trunk, and spoiler. It's an oil based paint. I'm thinking of taping off each splatter and wet sanding with 600 grit to get it down a little then using an orbital buffer to finish it off with a mild agressive pad and meguiars swirl remover to start off, then if it needs more then meguiars fine-cut remover.

here are some pics







thanks for your advice
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i dont think the claybar will work considering i had to use rubbing compound for 5 minutes on a small spot jus to cut the top of it off with some it still remaining but i'll try it out, thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
926 Posts
i would say a razor blade, some wd-40 or silicon spray or something for lube, and dont scratch the clear, to take off the top layer..dont know what I would do after that if its as hard as you say it is...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
X2 put the thinner on a Microfiber and rub the paint off then clean the paint well.

just dont let the thinner sit on there for a long period of time.

Modern Clear Coats are a lot more resilient to Chemicals than most people think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,857 Posts
^^^Exacxtly...Some tard bumped my door a couple weeks back. I got a very fine amount of thinner, whipped it clean off, clay barred it...then waxed it. You couldn't even tell it happened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
one splatter area that the paint got on is an area that has no visible clear coat and the paint just looks faded from the sun so i dont think paint thinner is good to use there. i have meguiars mild clay so i'll try that first. im scared to use paint thinner.. lol whats the lightest grit sandpaper out there? i wanna try and sand it down slowly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,716 Posts
Plastic razor blades, and a can of compressed air.

Turn the can of air upside down so it sprays liquid CO2 instaed of air, this will freeze the paint, then lightly get under a side of them with the razor, they will pop right off.

Good luck.

If that doesn't do it, try WD-40.......it works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
neonelite10 said:
Plastic razor blades, and a can of compressed air.

Turn the can of air upside down so it sprays liquid CO2 instaed of air, this will freeze the paint, then lightly get under a side of them with the razor, they will pop right off.

Good luck.

If that doesn't do it, try WD-40.......it works.
razor wont work cause of the way the paint is on the car, they're in blobs and the blobs drip slowly down so its real tight and cant get under, I tried paint thinner lightly and that didnt work at all. I ended up cutting the top of them off with 600 grit then working it down with 1500 then 2000. now theres a sanding mark that looks pink so I think the next step is to polish it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
You have single stage paint (base and clear coat together). I would have a body shop try and buff the spots with a wool pad and some heavy grit compound. Might cost you some money but your playing with fire sanding on single stage paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,716 Posts
How do you know it's single stage??

It sounds like its simply a hazed clear, a polishing will bring it right back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
If you see any " color " its 2 things when you sand.

1. You have cut threw the clear coat and your sanding on base coat. (you will see a nice "halo" of where the clear coat ends and the base is coming threw) After you buff it of corse.

2. single stage paint will have the color in with the clear, so the "sluge" will be the color of the car when you sand on it. Buffing will return the cars shine.

Most hondas of that year are single stage paint (solid color).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have meguiars #1 and #2 polish which I dont think is strong enough to use on the sanded parts which was sanded with 1500 then 2000. does anyone recommend a stronger polish to buff the sand marks and make them shineeeee???? the thing is, on the trunk where there are sand marks, the trunk also is faded so I'm gonna use my orbital buffer with pad and polish on the whole trunk too. so I gotta buff the sand marks up a little and use polish with the orbital buffer on the whole trunk to get it nice and red.. jeez so much work cuz some jackasss splattered paint on the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
275 Posts
neonelite10 said:
Plastic razor blades, and a can of compressed air.

Turn the can of air upside down so it sprays liquid CO2 instaed of air, this will freeze the paint, then lightly get under a side of them with the razor, they will pop right off.

Good luck.

If that doesn't do it, try WD-40.......it works.
thats good idea! ill have to remember that one! id try brake clean and razor or rag. then just wax the area
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Sriquixotic said:
I have meguiars #1 and #2 polish which I dont think is strong enough to use on the sanded parts which was sanded with 1500 then 2000. does anyone recommend a stronger polish to buff the sand marks and make them shineeeee???? the thing is, on the trunk where there are sand marks, the trunk also is faded so I'm gonna use my orbital buffer with pad and polish on the whole trunk too. so I gotta buff the sand marks up a little and use polish with the orbital buffer on the whole trunk to get it nice and red.. jeez so much work cuz some jackasss splattered paint on the car.
Welp i doubt that an orbital buffer is gonna do the trick, but here are my recommendations.

Optimum Polish and or Optimum Compound. Start with the polish first if that doesent get it then step up to the compound but then you will probably have to go over it again with the polish.

http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-compound.html

http://www.autogeek.net/opt400.html
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top