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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going crazy here getting ready for my first oil change. After researching and deciding on Mobil 1 10W30 synthetic oil I went to walmart and bought a case of 6 for 28 bucks (Decent deal). Now after doing some more research on oil I have come to realize there are SEVERAL mobil 1 10W30's . . .TriSynthetic formula, Multi-Vehicle formula, High Mileage formula, etc. I purchased 6 quarts of Multi Vehicle formula because it was either that or high mileage vehicle formula.


THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZY. I can take a financial loss and not use the multi vehicle formula if I need to but I am SERIOUSLY curious what formula I should be using. The owners manual does not specify nor does anyone seem to know. Can everyone tell me what they use or if they havent changed yet tell me what they plan to use? Thanks everyone this is just maddning!
 

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I use goodyear to change my oil and pay 50 bucks. Its worth it to have them look at the mufflerless stock exaust. Noone belives its stock. it just says mobil 1 synthetic. I have done 3 so far 500 miles 3000 miles and 5800 miles the oil was still clear when they took it out.
 

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it's not time for my oil change yet, but dude. if u read all or most of the maintenance section, cant u deduce which one to get? i recall the manual being either for or against synthetics. so...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I use mobil one but at walmart and kragen there are different 'formulas'. After digging around a bit it seems the multi vehicle formula is the standard one. . but then whats tri synthetic and high milage formula?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ayat108 said:
it's not time for my oil change yet, but dude. if u read all or most of the maintenance section, cant u deduce which one to get? i recall the manual being either for or against synthetics. so...

I am using the Mobil 1 supersyn multi vehicle formula. . .I am just wondering if thats the correct mobil one fully synthetic formula. The manual says to use Mobil 1 fully synthetic which is what I bought but it did not say which formula .. .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Slow5OH said:
What is the advantage of using Multi Vehicle as opposed to other synthetics?

-faast
You mean multi vehicle over like High mileage or Tri synthetic mobil one? Or other brands of oils?
 

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Maybe you are confusing Mobil 1 with just regular Mobil oils? The Mobil site only indicates one type of 10w-30 Mobil 1 and should be labelled "Multi-vehicle Formula". Any other grade of 10w-30 they sell should be either Mobil Drive Clean 10w-30 or Drive Clean Plus 10w-30 (high mileage), neither of which you will probably want. Mobil Drive Clean is just plain non synthetic oil. Drive Clean Plus is synthetic but is filled with extra cleaners etc for older engines.

IMHO you should probably stick with the Mobil 1 10w-30 "Multi-vehicle Formula" believe thats the one with the green cap.
 

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mpbiv said:
Maybe you are confusing Mobil 1 with just regular Mobil oils? The Mobil site only indicates one type of 10w-30 Mobil 1 and should be labelled "Multi-vehicle Formula". Any other grade of 10w-30 they sell should be either Mobil Drive Clean 10w-30 or Drive Clean Plus 10w-30 (high mileage), neither of which you will probably want. Mobil Drive Clean is just plain non synthetic oil. Drive Clean Plus is synthetic but is filled with extra cleaners etc for older engines.

IMHO you should probably stick with the Mobil 1 10w-30 "Multi-vehicle Formula" believe thats the one with the green cap.
nope. i've been putting mobile 1 bottles that specifically say high mileage formula in my 95 neon for years. in fact, sometimes i dont even see anything on the shelf that doesnt say higher mileage formula.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jeremy Smolik said:
nope. i've been putting mobile 1 bottles that specifically say high mileage formula in my 95 neon for years. in fact, sometimes i dont even see anything on the shelf that doesnt say higher mileage formula.

Yeah I the High milage vehicle is cheaper, but yesterday I saw TriSynth formula! :?
 

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Heh i talked to ya about this already but i think the rest of the peeps here should know about this

PART 1:
Today's topic seams to be motor oil related. I am a NASA Engineer at
Marshal Space Flight Center in Huntsville, Alabama. My field of work is
Tribology which is the study of friction, wear, and lubrication. In our
spare time, our group collects and tests different motor oils using the
Shell Four Ball tester. This tester tests the extreme pressure properties
of oils. These areas in a motor are cam to lifter contacts, valve stem to
guild, and piston skirts. Over the years we have found synthetic bases oils
to out perform mineral based oils by a large margin. We test the oils new,
after 1000 miles, 2000 miles, and up to 10,000 miles. In a nut shell, we
found that synthetic oils have better wear properties after being run 10,000
miles then mineral grade oils new. Which synthetic do we use? First any
you will benefit from any synthetic, but we use Mobil 1. Mobil by far puts
more research dollars in motor oils then any other company. They are also
aggressive in racing.
Other notes on motor oils.

Do not run a multi grade oil (10w-30) more then 1000 to 2000 miles -
depending on your driving habits.
This is because a 10w30 oil starts its life as a 10 weight oil and large
polymer chains are added to get the 30 rating. These chains break down very
quickly which produces small chains with an open electron charge at the
ends. These ends attract grim and form sludge.

Do not run synthetics in a new rebuild. A new engine needs the added
friction allowed by mineral oils to set the rings properly. Chevy found
this out on the corvette. These cars came from the factory with Mobil 1 and
owners brought them back because of smoking and oil consumption (rings did
not seat). Run a good single weight oil for the first 2000 miles. We found
Havaline 30 to be a good mineral oil - in fact we use it for our standard.

The reason Mobil 1 can safely be run for 10,000 miles is because the
additive package is well engineered to isolate grim and hold it in
suspension. This also is why Mobil 1 is expensive. You know - you get what
you pay for.

I know there are a lot of questions on motor oils. You can e-mail me for
more information or search the web for more details on synthetics. Your
Roadster deserves the best - run synthetic oils.

Phil Hall

Part 2:

I listed multi grade oil break down at 1000 to 2000 miles. This is for the
junk oils found at circle K for a dollar. A good name brand oil will last
3000 miles without too much break down. This is for mineral grade oils -
synthetic oils meet government viscosity tests for ratings without adding
thickeners like polymer chains.

Guys here at work run synthetics in motors that have 140,000 to 170,000
miles on them without any more oil consumption them normal. I believe that
you will get a slight increase in consumption in older motors because the
synthetic are very slippery and can get by old rings easier. In these cases
going to a 15w-50 may help, but this is not a reason not to use synthetics.
Older motors need the extra protection. At running temperature a synthetic
will maintain its viscosity, where a mineral oil viscosity is DRASTICALLY
REDUCED.

A test on how well synthetics work at different temperature can be done in
your home. Get a quart of your favorite mineral oil and a quart of a
synthetic. Put a cup a each oil in a glass or paper cup and stick in the
freezer over night. In the morning try and pour the oils out. Next test:
DO THIS OUTSIDE. On an old camp stove put a ¼ of the synthetic oil in an
old frying pan and put it on the stove on the highest heat setting. Cook
for 30 minutes. Now cook your oil for 30 minutes. At this point you will
see why you cooked the synthetic first. As the oil cooks pour some out to
see the changes in viscosity between the oils.

Part 3 on oil additive coming soon. I need to back to NASA work.

Phil Hall

Part 3:

The question of change intervals and synthetic oil has come up. As a side
at work we run oil tests using the Shell Four Ball test rig. This tester
was developed by Shell oil to test the extreme wear properties of motor oils
- cams, piston skirts etc. It consists of three, = inch balls held in a
triangular pattern in a cup with oil heated to 165 degrees. A forth ball is
lowered to the center of the three balls and loaded to 40 KG. The ball is
then rotated 600 RPM for one hour. After the test the wear scar is measured
on the three stationary balls. The bigger the scar the lower the extreme
wear property of the oil is. We use Havoline 30 wt for a base line. We use
this oil because engineers from the past liked this oil, so we have a large
data base.

Looking at data shows new Havoline 30 wt has a wear scar of .0165 inches.
New Mobil 1 has a .0145 inch scar. May not seem like a lot of difference,
but it is. Havoline 30 at 3000 miles has a wear scar of .020 inches and
Mobil 1 at 4000 miles has a .0164 scar. Remember - the bigger the badder.
3000 miles is as long as anyone was willing to run Havoline 30 wt, so its
data stops here. Mobil 1 at 6000 miles is .0167, at 8000 miles is .0188,
and at 10,000 miles is .0194. So, at 10,000 miles Mobil 1 has better
lubrication properties in the critical areas in your motor then a good 30
wt. All mineral oils follow Havoline pretty close - major brands. Some off
brands have a .020 wear scar new. Multi-grades generally have a larger wear
scar as well. This data was from a 5.0 Ford Mustang. Every motor will be
slightly different, but not much.

So, synthetic can handle long run intervals. But, that is part of the
story. You have contaminates to deal with. This is where the additive
package comes in play. This is the expensive part of oils and the reason
synthetics are high priced. Because of the long run intervals of synthetic,
they must have a vastly superior additive package - and they do. Proof of
this is to take 3000 mile dino oil and look at it in a glass jar - then do
the same for Mobil 1. The Mobil 1 will look new compared to the dino oil.
I run Mobil 1 in my new cars to the longest manufactures oil change interval
- usually 7000 miles. This will keep the warranty happy. In my Roadster I
change it once a year regardless of mileage. It run my Roadster about 5000
miles a year. Most people at work run synthetics and do the same. We have
a bunch of cars in the lot that have over 200,000 miles on them and going
strong. I (my wife) never keeps one that long.

I run 10w-30 Mobil 1 in my new Roadster motors (after break-in). Older
motors get 15w-50 because the tolerances are larger. Because synthetics
don't thin down like mineral oils do at temperature, I would be careful
running 15w-50 in a motor with a high volume oil pump. By doing so you may
run into cavitation problems - oil gage jumping wildly. Drag racers
experience this often at high RPM. Drop a wt and it will clear up.

I checked the auto parts stores last night and could not find a zero wt
Mobil 1. It was about 2 years ago they were talking introducing this oil,
so apparently they have in some markets. I stand corrected.

Testing another "magic" oil additive today. It looks and smells like
linseed oil! This should be fun. Additives are another subject all
together. Another day, but never tested a good one - none- zip - zero -
don't waste your money.

Sorry for being soo long. I like synthetics (obviously). If you have been
to the conferences, seen all the tests and data, and read the lubrication
journals you would run nothing other then synthetics.

Phil
 

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Hey phil if that is a cut and paste can you pm me witht he guys email, i have a few questions i would like to ask him in regards to synth oil.. Also want to send him a few quarts of a oil that i found and have heard to be top notch. (NEO syntehtic for those who care).


Was wondering if "phil" can take alook at some info i have found in regards to this oil.

cheers
 

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sorry guys i aint phil...i got that from another forum. the URL is at my office comp...once i get back there i will show ya guys where i got it from
 

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ok i got it from www.speed-society.com

its in the forums general tech section
 
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