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On your scan tool you have does it tell you
lt kr and st kr of any form? What about a map/tip sensor reading? If you can get us some data readings we probably could help you allot better especially if you can get us a log to look at. I know I have a cheap scan tool I got off of amazon and it'll even produce a generic log of some parameters. Not the ones we need though but yours might be different and show what we need. Just want to help you try and figure this out.

You say you replaced a cam? Are you sure timing is set within spec's? Timing on these cars can be hectic been there before lol. Ahhh the good old days.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I can get a log. It logs almost everything. No motor is bone stock, leak down tested and compression tested perfect. Probably tomorrow night I will see if I can make a video and video the sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I did a log but my scanner doesn't format it to be emailed. I did a video and uploaded it to you tube but it is very hard to hear what's going on.
l'll post the link just in case you can hear it.
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Fixed!!! Bad Cam sensor
Edit: Nevermind still having issues. Might be a wiring issue to the cam sensor. Will keep digging.
 

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Fixed!!! Bad Cam sensor
Edit: Nevermind still having issues. Might be a wiring issue to the cam sensor. Will keep digging.
did you replace the magnet also?
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
After taking all the air box and stuff out I had the black line coming off the air box disconnected that ties into the turbo. One issue there. Wiring seems to be good. No I didn't change the magnet yet. Will hook the vavuum line back up amd swap the magnet then try this again.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Now it seems to work fine when the car is at temp but I can only boost 7lbs now.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Well this is transitioning into an ignition problem or probably always has been. Loses a cylinder till about 2600 rpm then runs great. Having a I believe cylinder 3 issue at idle then goes away after 2600rpm and runs smooth. Then intermittently cuts out under load.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Well this is transitioning into an ignition problem or probably always has been. Loses a cylinder till about 2600 rpm then runs great. Having a I believe cylinder 3 issue at idle then goes away after 2600rpm and runs smooth. Then intermittently cuts out under load.
FINALLY FIXED!!!!! The problem was something so stupid!!!! I was pulling the injector wires to see what cylinder I was having an issue with since it started getting worst. Got to 3 and had absolutely no change. Had spark, fuel, compression everything. Then I actually looked at the spark plug and the problem was clear after a very close inspection. B*+ch was cracked. Replaced and running like a dream again.
 

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Bet you feel dumb about that! Haha glad you figured it out!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Yep! This is a first for me. Guess the cracks got more visible as the problem got worst. Got to do a lot of PM on the car and found and fix a few other issues as well. Wouldn't think the spark plugs I just bought had a bad one in the bunch. Lesson learned!
 

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Congrats on the find!!! Sometimes it's the simplest things and them can be there hardest to find. But still congrats on finding it. Have fun and enjoy now that it's all fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Well now it's time for timing belt, clutch,fork,TOB,water pump, billet oil pump gears,balance shaft delete, return line, ID 1050 injectors, and BWS Stg4 turbo that has been sitting in a box for about 3 months. Now that it's fixed 🤷‍♂️ 🤣🤣
 

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The colder plugs yes
I tried those exact plugs on my car (bone stock motor with unmolested S3R turbo boosting spike at 21PSI). It didn't seem to run any better than with an $8 a set of 4 coppers (Champion RE14MCC5) gapped at .050". I change plugs every 2 years regardless of miles driven for the pesky smog test.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I tried those exact plugs on my car (bone stock motor with unmolested S3R turbo boosting spike at 21PSI). It didn't seem to run any better than with an $8 a set of 4 coppers (Champion RE14MCC5) gapped at .050". I change plugs every 2 years regardless of miles driven for the pesky smog test.
. They don't run better but they do last longer than copper. I perfer copper, that's all I run in all my N/A vehicles.
 
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