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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Sooooo yeah still having the same problem. Although is runs like new again other than the fuel cut issues. Still having the same issues. No cut in 1st gear, 2 gear starts to have small cuts between 4-6k rpm. Then in 3rd it cuts hard at 3500rpm. Then idles like crap for a bit then settles back to idling good and driving good just not under any load above 10psi of boost. Still no engine codes. Seems the only thing left is the fuel pump. I'm going to do another boost leak test this weekend and see if I can find any other leaks.
 

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what do your AFRs look like?
 

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05 srt-4 white
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Were you able to check fuel pressure at wot under load? This should not be done alone it takes two one to drive the car and one to watch the fuel pressure gauge as it lays on the window. Or with any luck a digital gauge inside would be preferred. Then it could also be logged. Here's a link on it from duster360/needlesstorque.

 

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Discussion Starter #24
I have a digital fuel pressure gauge I will hook up this weekend. Good thing is fixing everything I did, I was able to find a lot of damaged parts and get those replaced as well so it hasn't been a total waste and no real expense either. Less than $200.
Next will be replacing clutch and timing belt after this is figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
In case anyone was wondering how to attach a fuel pressure sensor to an 03 fuel rail easily. Use this part from Vibrant pt#16791 has a -4AN female to a 1/8 NPT female.
 

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2004 Eblue SRT-4
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When’s the last time you had your Timing belt/water pump/ serpentine belts replaced? Improper timing can lead to one or multiple misfires (that happened to me) even if the coil, wires and spark plugs are new. Also check cam position sensor, TPS wiring, IAC valve. As far as fuel cut, a bad fuel pump could be the cause as mentioned above. If you’re placing the pump, don’t forget to replace the Fuel pressure regulator, VERY important.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I checked all that before I started replacing parts. I do need to do a timing belt based on miles I put on the car. Car is sitting right at about 205k miles. All the wiring is good. I confirmed that visually and through my scanner. Regulator/filter was actually the first part I replaced. Just having a hard time believing that a fuel pump has 30k miles on it and not even a year old is already no good.
 

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2004 Eblue SRT-4
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Are you sure the FPR is seated properly on the canister? Sometimes that can be a problem. I heard Walbros aren’t as good as they used to be. Maybe a spark blow out? Could be many things. Definitely get the timing belt replaced and that actual Engine mount while you’re in there
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Yes it was doing it before the replacement of the regulator. Yep, replacing everything on the front of the engine, billet pump gears, water pump, front and rear main seal when I do the clutch. Belt, billet tensioner, idler the whole 9. Been doing this awhile. My adapter comes in today and will swap fuel rails and put the fuel pressure gauge on it and see what happens. Gap is at .032. Not getting blow out on stock turbo at 10psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Think the issue is too much fuel. Just took it out and ran it the pressure dropped to 68psi at WOT the just fuel cut out at usual. PSI stays pretty steady the whole time it's running. Fluctuates 70-72psi
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ordered a new complete fuel pump/canister from Modern. Should be here Friday. Hope this fixes it. If not, I'm going full build and stand alone and get rid of all the factory crap!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Installed a brand new full pump and still have the fuel cut issue. So now everything fuel related is brand new and everything ignition related is brand new and still when I get to about 10psi starts either pulling timing or cutting fuel. Need to install my wideband and see if its rich or lean. Seriously what could be causing this? Still 0 engine codes
 

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any ideas on why your fuel pressure is so high? stock pump setup should be 58psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Have no idea why it's so high. I replaced the entire housing with a walboro unti from modern. I am getting a high pitch whistle sound going into boost then it goes away while in boost. My off idle is horrible now, gets worst as the car warms. Take off it sounds like it's misfiring until the turbo builds pressure then it smooths out but will not let me go WOT with out some break ups. I know there is a small crack on the exhaust manifold inside where the 02 housing bolts up not sure that would cause my current issue. Thinking the TurboXS bov is junk and leaking. But I still have 0 codes so it's really hard to pin point the issue. All vacuum lines are brand new and there are currently no leaks on them. But something is leaking somewhere I'm guessing.
 

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What tune are you running?

Think the camshaft position sensor is good? It should throw a code but it’s given me issues so I move the harness around a bit and it goes away.

I currently have hesitation at WOT sometimes so I have to let off the throttle and feather it back in to get a smooth launch. It’s annoying!
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Mopar Stg2, no tune. All Mopar and no engine codes. No real mods other than ETS charge pipe, AGP direct fit intercooler, hard pipes, TurboXS BOV, MPx turbo back exhaust No cat, 3" 02 housing.
 

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What kind of boost psi peak and hold are you getting with the agp waste gate? I understand you have the spring and pcm control but the mopar tunes do have a different boost table then the factory w/g. So if u can maybe try a factory waste gate and see if there is a difference. I also know with a Diablo cmr tune the boost table can be matched better. Just an idea to try. Can't guarantee it will work but it could. The agp waste gate has been known to cause some weird problems on factory tunes.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I took the agp out and put the mopar stg 2 one back on in case there was an issue with it. No change other than my boost is lower now. Will not go over 10psi before it starts to fuel cut.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
What tune are you running?

Think the camshaft position sensor is good? It should throw a code but it’s given me issues so I move the harness around a bit and it goes away.

I currently have hesitation at WOT sometimes so I have to let off the throttle and feather it back in to get a smooth launch. It’s annoying!
The beauty of this car is that not a single wire has been hacked into. I did recently put a newer mopar cam, crank, knock sensor with no change either since I have lots of spare parts.
 
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