Front speakers?
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Joined
·
51 Posts
First, pop off the fuse cover(drivers side) and nearly identical cover on the passenger side(Front doors must be open). Then take out the screws just above each of the covers. Next, there are two screws in the windshield defroster, one on the left and right. You will have to get creative as there is not much clearance between the screws and windshield. Now, firmly grab dash near boost gauge and lift up, you will hear and feel the dash pop off. Once you have the front edge loose all the way across, pull dash towards rear of car. This releases runners that need to be aligned when you put the dash back in that help to hold it place. Be carefull not to pull to hard as your boost gauge line will not want to stretch too far. You will now see the speaker pods that hold the tweeters.Just two more screws on each pod and you have pulled your speakers! I dismantled my stock tweeters, cut out a larger hole, and sealed my aftermarket tweets in the stock pods. You can also use the pattern and cut out some new pods from plastic or whatever. Good Luck! Peace!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Joined
·
26,333 Posts
Did you checkout those lame magnets on those tweeters? :shock:
Joined
·
26,333 Posts
Do you you really want to know? :lol: All OEM SRT-4 speakers have very small magnets.
I can understand the why PVO went the route of not applying a high-performance stereo and replacing the JLs subs with the latest ones. Weight of the Optima battery is about the same as one of the subs. :shock:
Here is a link to see them: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/caraudio/product.asp?sku=12150
I can understand the why PVO went the route of not applying a high-performance stereo and replacing the JLs subs with the latest ones. Weight of the Optima battery is about the same as one of the subs. :shock:
Here is a link to see them: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/caraudio/product.asp?sku=12150
Joined
·
51 Posts
Joker, door speaks are cake. First open the door(duh), remove three screws total. One you can see, one more inside the handrest, and one more hidden by the door lever. The latter two are covered with little plastic covers you need to gently pry off. Next, gently slide a flat tool under the door panel starting anywhere near the bottom. Feel for a near pressure point and start pulling the door panel from the door. You should hear one or more of the plastic pins pop out. Once there is enough room to fit your fingers under the panel, use your hands to gently pull away the door panel. Get the panel completely unhinged from the door, you will have to support the panel from hanging with your hands. Be careful to not pull too hard as your door opening mechanism and power controls are still connected. Now you have to work behind the panel. Carfully disconnect your power controls, make sure you have enough light to see the connectiions. Next, and this is a biotch, unhinge the door opening and lock metal levers. They are connected to a green and yellow hinge. The panel should be completely free and the speakers in your sights. Just remove the three screws around the speaker and not the actual pod. You have to pry the speaker off because it has a sealer(comes off easy).
got damn that was a lot to type. anyway, when you put in your new speakers, remember that you may need a spacer. I found out the hard way. I tried to put the windows down and they nearly fell off there tracks after hitting the magnets. I used a half inch spacer, perfect. Use weatherstripping or caulking to seal your speakers, they will sound a lot better.
Ya hemi, i saw the magnets. the magnets on the tweeters were almost as big as the midbass speakers, crazy. what did you put in your car?
got damn that was a lot to type. anyway, when you put in your new speakers, remember that you may need a spacer. I found out the hard way. I tried to put the windows down and they nearly fell off there tracks after hitting the magnets. I used a half inch spacer, perfect. Use weatherstripping or caulking to seal your speakers, they will sound a lot better.
Ya hemi, i saw the magnets. the magnets on the tweeters were almost as big as the midbass speakers, crazy. what did you put in your car?
$500!?!?! I would never pay that much for a subwoofer! I can get a subwoofer that is as good sounding and as loud as that for probably around $350. a Treo Engineering SSX or a Resonant Engineering XXX. The problem with ALL JL's is that they're EXTREMELY overpriced. My Clif Designs 1500WRMS Amp costs about $700 retail. I got it for approx $150 cause I know someone who works for the company plus I got them some free stuff. But yeah anyways, JL = TOO MUCH $$.hemidakota said:
Joined
·
5,918 Posts
Re: Rear speaker carpet...
razor knifethe joker said:
Joined
·
5,918 Posts
well i wouldnt call that the easy way. the best way for sure though...
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
