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I checked the brake wires under the clutch pedal and found no evidence they were being mashed...my clutch pedal touches the edge of the rubber sound dampening material about three inches above where the brake wires pass...so I left it alone.


I must have been in a funk the last time I changed my tranny fluid...I think my car was on jackstands instead of being on a nice level surface...so I accidently overfilled the tranny by about 3-4 ozs. This past weekend, with the car on a nice level surface, I put a drain pan underneath and removed the rubber fill plug and drained off the excess.

Wow, what a difference...it shifts slicker than greased owl shit again :goodyear:
 

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I have the same problems as you.

could this cause the abs and brake light to come on, the odometer to flicker on the dash and also to make my stereo turn off?
Hi i have recently been having this same problems as you did? What did you do to fix them or what aws wrong? I think its the alternator but i dont know.:eeeek:
 

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Took my car to dealer, the mechanic forund a code for the front left anti lock brakes sensor replaced that and no more codes, so then they got done was about to leave the dealer and my ABS light with brake light came on and the car wanted to shut off what fuck man whats wrogn with my damm car, and i took it back and it threw nocode so the mechanic and the people said drive it around for like saturday and sunday to see if light came on, and or if it stayed on the whole time you know, and my lights flicker interior and exterior lights flicker when hitting a bump or something why?BAttery , alternator was good the mechanic said, and battery good, HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP.
 

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Took my car to dealer, the mechanic forund a code for the front left anti lock brakes sensor replaced that and no more codes, so then they got done was about to leave the dealer and my ABS light with brake light came on and the car wanted to shut off what fuck man whats wrogn with my damm car, and i took it back and it threw nocode so the mechanic and the people said drive it around for like saturday and sunday to see if light came on, and or if it stayed on the whole time you know, and my lights flicker interior and exterior lights flicker when hitting a bump or something why?BAttery , alternator was good the mechanic said, and battery good, HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP.

Did you ever find out what this was? I had/have the same problem. A few months ago, I had a low brake switch code. It only came on for a few days and then went away. I then had my engine built. I was driving and every time I hit a bump, my brake and abs and seatbelt lights would come on. My stereo and wideband cut off and the car acted like it was going to die. I found that my battery terminals were loose, so I tightened them up and that fixed that. But now my car is dead all the time. If I let it sit for a day w/o driving it, and go to start it the next day, it wont start. It's like something drains it, and unless it is driven everyday the battery dies. Battery is brand new btw.
 

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I'm totally missing something here, regarding the brake clip/wire/clutch pedal issue. But, I don't see the problem that some of you are claiming.
I know it's been posted a while ago, but I didn't get to see the video.

Can someone post a decent photo of the situation WITH the clutch pedal fully depressed?

Maybe the original owner saw this thread and fixed it? I don't see how else it would have been situated.
The white clip is pointed down, pretty much directly away from the nearest part of the clutch pedal/lever, but certainly nothing is smashed
 

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Take a good look at the picture in my post.

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f25/found-potential-factory-wiring-problem-50022/index3.html#post3046094

You can see where the pedal meets the wiring by the vertical line worn into the wiring.
Yeah, I saw the picture. That's weird, too weird, especially since my clutch pedal/brake wire positions are nothing like that. Yeah, they look the same, but my plastic clip is below the pedal. I also don't see how some of you are
saying that you move the clip or wire, and now it's "over the clutch pedal"???

Eeeouuw. I'd hate to accidentally snag the wire, at at the wrong time, and get rear ended by a semi.

There's no way, short of me physically standing on my clutch pedal, with my entire weight (about a 250lb frame), that would even leave a hint of the pedal touching the wires. So, I have to go along with the responder who said to the effect of "the factory either did it right on my car", or they fixed it by then. I do know , though that my '05 was built late '04.

I'll try and get a photo of mine, WITH the clutch to the floor (with hand pressure). I think you folks may be standing on your clutch. I get full disengagement just pressing it to the floor, while remaining in my seat.

Otherwise, I'd say that your clutches hydraulics need checking and/or shifter cables have stretched, explaining the improved shifting, when you move however/whatever you relocate, enabling you to push the clutch even further.

I truly appreciate this thread, and since my ownership of this car, few people have driven it any sort of significant distance, and plan to keep it that way.

In fact, should I ever sell the car locally, there'll be no 'test drives' (It does work that way. I sold a motorcycle that way - with "NO test rides" in the ad).
 

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BOY! Was I ever wrong!

I took photos of my setup, with my hand pressure pushing the clutch down all the way. Still, as before, I contend I don't have the problem. I have a ways to go. As I have a good clutch and cables (replaced in early '08).

<br>


I'm not sure about the elec. tape. So, it was probably fixed at clutch job time.

Thanks
 

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Just disconnect the black connector from the white connector. Slide the red tab over to the right and then push on the black tab above it to pull it out. There is a metal plate in the way but it'll come if you tilt it to one side


Then stick plastic connector for the wiring harness in the other hole and reconnect the black connector to the white one. voila
 

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My 05 had same problem, dumbass wire getting mashed to hell and back every time the clutch was depressed. Mine had the same the white clip some have reported. (Making it even easier to notice, maybe?)The tape was already cut on the hard plastic peice around the wires where the clutch lever hit it. This literally took me 30 seconds to fix. One ziptie and done and I gained about 2 inches of clutch pedal travel, how amazing. Shifting is way smoother now. I am sure some people don't have the problem because a previous owner noticed this or a service tech with a pair of eyes and a flashlight.
 
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