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Super Steve said:
You'll see that there isn't much room to move that harness to clear. As far as time goes, do you have something more important to do on your weekends?
Let's see... Take my Jeep out for it's first run in 8 years since I rebuilt it. Play with the ride hight on my NEX coilovers, Oh... the F1 Austrailian GP and Busch race in Mexico City on a road course is on. Plus I just moved with 15,000lbs of stuff in boxes that I'll just let the wife unpack...She won't mind.:thumbsup:
 

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Looked at mine, and when the clutch pedal is fully depressed..i have about 1-2mm of clearance still..doesnt look like i need to move mine because i dont have a dent on the wires...weird i know. But hey..maybe they did mine right!!!
 

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InrkldNturboSpld said:
Looked at mine, and when the clutch pedal is fully depressed..i have about 1-2mm of clearance still..doesnt look like i need to move mine because i dont have a dent on the wires...weird i know. But hey..maybe they did mine right!!!
Same with my "04, I just checked! I was looking down there because my shifting has become really nothcy since I Had the CM s4 clutch installed, I re-adjusted the clutch pedal all the way up but I did not change the wire loom position as it was not the problem, I have not test driven it yet, if the adjustment does not fix it I'll try to bleed the slave cylinder, if that does not work I'll have a shop change the TO bearing and slave cylinder. The clutch itself feels great and I have confidence in Clutchmaters so I doubt that is the problem.
 

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On the issue of the brake light switch....

I can't check my car right now (it's dark out). but if its anything like my first gen neon, the brake light switch is just a square plastic piece with a button on it that is positioned behind the brake pedel, and when the pedel is depressed, it pushes in the button and lights up the bakes. I assume this is the same on the SRT. If so, maybe when they say, don't reinstall it, they mean don't take out the actual piece that the switch plugs into. follow me? if you were to take out the piece that's physically connected to the firewall/floorboard or bottom of the dash, then it would need to be readjusted perfectly in order for your brake lights to light up correctly. I think if you just unplugged the brake switch, and pluged it back in without moving the piece that's actually mounted to the bottom of the dash/firewall (whichever it is), you should be perfectly fine.
i'll have to look at it tomorrow when it's light out. but i think what i'm saying makes sense?
I disconnected the wire from the brake sensor (the one that says don't reinstall) to reroute it and removed the sensor from the bracket.. Now the car sometimes thinks the brake is still being pressed even though the car is off (have to press the brake pedal to get it to stop)..

Guess when it says, don't reinstall - it means it..

If you remove that white sensor from it's bracket, you gotta buy a new one.. Dunno how expensive it is.
 

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Talk about bringing the thread back from the dead... :lol: Well... I just unclipped the white brake switch and relocated my wires in front of my clutch. I would say shifting is about 85% better now! I can't believe that something this minor could help out so much! I know that it's not all just in my head either cause the temp around here has been below freezing... and we all know how well SRT-4's shift in the cold! Anyhoo... I have noticed absolutely no notchy gears and hardly any lockout on downshifts since doing this little "mod/fix". I guess this will remind those people who are putting this off till later that they need to get out and fix this... maybe remedy some clutch/tranny problems for them too. :thumbsup:
 

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WOW. I can't believe this is the first time I have read this thread after having my car and participating on these forums so long. Well, for an update I have an '04 and I had the same problem, and what I did was do a 1/4 counterclockwise turn on the white brake light switch and move the wires in front of the clutch pedal arm and then re-insert the brake light switch. I have no problems no cels thrown= brake lights work fine. Just don't push and play with the black button on the switch and everything should be fine.

The way I see it is by taking out the whole switch assembly is no different than when you push the damn brake pedal; the distance the little black button travels is no different than when pushing on the pedal; here your just releasing the brake button tension by pulling the switch assembly away from the pedal instead of pushing the pedal away from the assembly. I hope this helps some people worried about messing up their switch. I'm sure if you do mess it up, the thing is inexpensive anyways, but I had no problems.
 

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oh just so u guys know, i lost my brake lights for a week and kept blowing fuses. didnt know why till i was backing up and saw the fuse blow when i pressed the clutch in. thats what happens if you dont move it.
 

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I just bought my 100% factory original 2005 SRT-4 ACR with 5k miles not even one week ago, and immediately I noticed some significant shifting problems. I just read this thread and decided I needed to take a look, because I thought just maybe it's related.

Take a look, I made this MPEG video with my digital camera (streaming download, 16MB total), just maybe it may find its way to Chrysler so they take this issue seriously.

Click here to watch Dodge-SRT-4-Factory-Clutch-Pedal-Travel-Obstruction-by-Brake-Light-Wiring

This obstruction was so obvious, I almost felt afraid to drive again it until it was remedied. After relocating the brake light wiring, I gained roughly 1 FULL INCH of pedal travel. I've driven it roughly 20 miles since relocating the wiring, and utilizing this extra last critical inch of pedal travel, I've noticed a very significant improvement in ease of gear engagement, in ALL gears.

It is my understanding that 2005 models have significantly more gear engagement problems, and also 2005 is approximately when Chrysler started putting this plastic "tab" to shield the wiring from direct contact with the pedal. Is there a coincidence between this extra tab getting in the way and the gear engagement problems?

If you have gear engagement issues, I'd highly, HIGHLY suggest inspecting whats happening here on your car.

Here is a photo... Note the distinct vertical line in the fraying, and the "goo" stuck to pedal shaft. You can clearly see where they were coming in contact. The MPEG video shows it actually happening.

 

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phubarr said:
I just bought my 100% factory original 2005 SRT-4 ACR with 5k miles not even one week ago, and immediately I noticed some significant shifting problems. I just read this thread and decided I needed to take a look, because I thought just maybe it's related.

Take a look, I made this MPEG video with my digital camera (streaming download, 16MB total), just maybe it may find its way to Chrysler so they take this issue seriously.

Click here to watch Dodge-SRT-4-Factory-Clutch-Pedal-Travel-Obstruction-by-Brake-Light-Wiring

This obstruction was so obvious, I almost felt afraid to drive again it until it was remedied. After relocating the brake light wiring, I gained roughly 1 FULL INCH of pedal travel. I've driven it roughly 20 miles since relocating the wiring, and utilizing this extra last critical inch of pedal travel, I've noticed a very significant improvement in ease of gear engagement, in ALL gears.

It is my understanding that 2005 models have significantly more gear engagement problems, and also 2005 is approximately when Chrysler started putting this plastic "tab" to shield the wiring from direct contact with the pedal. Is there a coincidence between this extra tab getting in the way and the gear engagement problems?

If you have gear engagement issues, I'd highly, HIGHLY suggest inspecting whats happening here on your car.

Here is a photo... Note the distinct vertical line in the fraying, and the "goo" stuck to pedal shaft. You can clearly see where they were coming in contact. The MPEG video shows it actually happening.

great video. on my 05, i had the same white tab. it took me literally less then 30 seconds to fix the problem. shifting is a lil better. less roughness and grinding.
 

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everyone should know this

I haven't fixed it yet cause i'm gonna go to the dealer ship on friday anyways and have them fix it but if they just put more tape around it then i'll do it myself. Does someone have before and after pics of anything. I'm just trying to see if i understand right about how it's done
 

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Mine looked just like phubarr's did, i took the wire, unplugged it from the sensor, and both of the pop-fittings that hold it down, and rerouted it around the left side, behind some wire looms, and the OBD2 port, and voila, amazing how DCX couldn't handle this amazing feet.
 

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My car shifts fine (05), but I've often looked at that plastic piece with wires and wondered why it's right under where the pedal shafts hits the firewall.


??????????????????????


Why put a plastic piece over the wire instead of relocate it????????

Some secret reason?

I guess we'll never know.

Not sure how you would gain an inch of travel, though. More worried about the wires.
 

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05.. same thing. I just push the brake pedal in. Turned the whole brake light switch assembly 1/4 turn left(counterclock wise) and pulled it out w/o pushing the button. Than Moved it over ontop of the clutch and reinserted back in its spot 1/4 turn right (w/o pushing button in). Than I zip tied it to my speaker gauge wire. I'll have to see how it shifts now. POS 3rd gear problems.
 

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could this cause the abs and brake light to come on, the odometer to flicker on the dash and also to make my stereo turn off?
 
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