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Since there seems to be a few on here runnin the BC's we need to do a mass pm or post to find out the best set up for our rides (ie, spring preload ...etc) I have adjusted my preload but after reading this I might tighten my preload a little I didnt realize that makin it looser would give me a bouncer ride if anyone has any more input post or pm....oh yeah the bottom ring is there to keep the ring above tight as well as not allowing the CO thread body to move....I think I got that right
 

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Discussion Starter #42
madneon said:
Since there seems to be a few on here runnin the BC's we need to do a mass pm or post to find out the best set up for our rides (ie, spring preload ...etc) I have adjusted my preload but after reading this I might tighten my preload a little I didnt realize that makin it looser would give me a bouncer ride if anyone has any more input post or pm....oh yeah the bottom ring if you loosen that and spin the CO housing it will lower or raise the car after you are done tighten it back up

I like that idea. Would be nice to know. :thumbsup:

I'm still kind of lost about the bottom ring. I thought you adjust the top ring to lower it. :huh: I'm lost :lol: (Like I said earlier, I'm learning)
 

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you actually have to loosen just the bottom ring to lower/raise the car I think the second top ring is like a backup to make sure the spring stays put when ever I adjusted mine I just loosened the bottom ring and twisted the CO's body but like I was sayin what settings are everybody using for daily driving...auto X...Drag...etc...and by settings I mean preload/dampining.( if we all got a list of the best settings for all of these we would be set)....so every one is on the same page I am counting clicks from full soft...is full soft 32 or is it 1, I know the v2 guys have 30 or so clicks....
 

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AdvanSRT-4 said:
madneon said:
Since there seems to be a few on here runnin the BC's we need to do a mass pm or post to find out the best set up for our rides (ie, spring preload ...etc) I have adjusted my preload but after reading this I might tighten my preload a little I didnt realize that makin it looser would give me a bouncer ride if anyone has any more input post or pm....oh yeah the bottom ring if you loosen that and spin the CO housing it will lower or raise the car after you are done tighten it back up

I like that idea. Would be nice to know. :thumbsup:

I'm still kind of lost about the bottom ring. I thought you adjust the top ring to lower it. :huh: I'm lost :lol: (Like I said earlier, I'm learning)

The top rings that are immediately below the spring are for preload, yo uloosen the lowest of the two, and raise the upper ring to raise the preload, or lower it to reduce preload. The lowest ring that is above the mounting threaded body is how you raise/lower the overall height of the car.

To lower the car, you must first preload your springs, you do this by simply removing the wheel, leaving everything bolted up, and tighten the upper ring until the spring no longer moves freely, then raise it more to rais the preload, on my car, I gave it one inch of preload on each corner, then you tighten the second lockring against the upper one to lock your spring perch (first lockring). After you are done measure each rear coilover from the tophat to the first lockring, the rear two coilovers should have the same measurement, and the front two should also be the same, but the fronts will be different than the rears because the two springs are different lengths.

After you have set the preload on all four corners, put the wheels back on the car, and drive it around the block (but not too far), to make sure your tires are flat on the ground.

Then measure the cars ride height from the ground to each fender lip, and add whatever measurement you want the car to sit at to your equation. Then you have the distance you will raise or lower the bracket/body of the coilover.

So lets say you measured the car at 23-1/2 inches off the ground on your front fenderlip, and your rear is 24-1/2" off the ground, and you want your car to sit at 24" all around. You would lower the rear 1/2", and raise the front 1/2", duh.....heres how you do that.......

Raise the front of the car in the air, take off the front tires, loosen the lowermost lockring (3rd one), unbolt the coilover from the knuckle and slide it off of the knuckle, push the coilover out of the way so you have room to turn the lower mounting body 360*, since you want to raise the front, you would unscrew (clockwise) the lower mounting body 4 times (each turn is approximately 1/8"). Then bolt it back onto the knuckle, and lock the lower lockring against the mounting body, it is easier to lock it against it if the coilover is bolted up already, the same for unlocking it.

Do the same for the rear, but you want to turn the body in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise), this shortens the coilover, lowering the car.

There is an easier way to do it, by twisting the coilover body without unbolting it, but this is VERY bad for the internal valving, so don't be lazy, do it the right way!!!

Then set the car on the ground, drive around the block, and remeasure, if your measurements were accurate prior to doing the adjustments, your car should be sitting 24" off the ground all around.


madneon said:
Since there seems to be a few on here runnin the BC's we need to do a mass pm or post to find out the best set up for our rides (ie, spring preload ...etc) I have adjusted my preload but after reading this I might tighten my preload a little I didnt realize that makin it looser would give me a bouncer ride if anyone has any more input post or pm....oh yeah the bottom ring is there to keep the ring above tight as well as not allowing the CO thread body to move....I think I got that right

My preload on all four corners is set at one inch tighter.

My bound/rebound (damping) settings are set as follows.

1softest/32hardest

Daily Driving:
F-6/R-3

Sprited Street:
F-10/R-8

Mountain Road:
F-16/R-14

I haven't done the following, but my settings will be as follows...

Autocross:
F-18/R-16

Road Course:
Upped Pre-load to 1-1/2"
F-20/R-18

Drag Racing:
Upped Pre-load rear only 2"
Reduced Preload front only 1"
F-25/R-32 (higher rear to negate weight transfer on launch)
 

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A friend of mine got pregnant because of preload.....

Car looks fantastic, Advan. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #47
neonelite10 said:
AdvanSRT-4 said:
madneon said:
Since there seems to be a few on here runnin the BC's we need to do a mass pm or post to find out the best set up for our rides (ie, spring preload ...etc) I have adjusted my preload but after reading this I might tighten my preload a little I didnt realize that makin it looser would give me a bouncer ride if anyone has any more input post or pm....oh yeah the bottom ring if you loosen that and spin the CO housing it will lower or raise the car after you are done tighten it back up

I like that idea. Would be nice to know. :thumbsup:

I'm still kind of lost about the bottom ring. I thought you adjust the top ring to lower it. :huh: I'm lost :lol: (Like I said earlier, I'm learning)

The top rings that are immediately below the spring are for preload, yo uloosen the lowest of the two, and raise the upper ring to raise the preload, or lower it to reduce preload. The lowest ring that is above the mounting threaded body is how you raise/lower the overall height of the car.

To lower the car, you must first preload your springs, you do this by simply removing the wheel, leaving everything bolted up, and tighten the upper ring until the spring no longer moves freely, then raise it more to rais the preload, on my car, I gave it one inch of preload on each corner, then you tighten the second lockring against the upper one to lock your spring perch (first lockring). After you are done measure each rear coilover from the tophat to the first lockring, the rear two coilovers should have the same measurement, and the front two should also be the same, but the fronts will be different than the rears because the two springs are different lengths.

After you have set the preload on all four corners, put the wheels back on the car, and drive it around the block (but not too far), to make sure your tires are flat on the ground.

Then measure the cars ride height from the ground to each fender lip, and add whatever measurement you want the car to sit at to your equation. Then you have the distance you will raise or lower the bracket/body of the coilover.

So lets say you measured the car at 23-1/2 inches off the ground on your front fenderlip, and your rear is 24-1/2" off the ground, and you want your car to sit at 24" all around. You would lower the rear 1/2", and raise the front 1/2", duh.....heres how you do that.......

Raise the front of the car in the air, take off the front tires, loosen the lowermost lockring (3rd one), unbolt the coilover from the knuckle and slide it off of the knuckle, push the coilover out of the way so you have room to turn the lower mounting body 360*, since you want to raise the front, you would unscrew (clockwise) the lower mounting body 4 times (each turn is approximately 1/8"). Then bolt it back onto the knuckle, and lock the lower lockring against the mounting body, it is easier to lock it against it if the coilover is bolted up already, the same for unlocking it.

Do the same for the rear, but you want to turn the body in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise), this shortens the coilover, lowering the car.

There is an easier way to do it, by twisting the coilover body without unbolting it, but this is VERY bad for the internal valving, so don't be lazy, do it the right way!!!

Then set the car on the ground, drive around the block, and remeasure, if your measurements were accurate prior to doing the adjustments, your car should be sitting 24" off the ground all around.


madneon said:
Since there seems to be a few on here runnin the BC's we need to do a mass pm or post to find out the best set up for our rides (ie, spring preload ...etc) I have adjusted my preload but after reading this I might tighten my preload a little I didnt realize that makin it looser would give me a bouncer ride if anyone has any more input post or pm....oh yeah the bottom ring is there to keep the ring above tight as well as not allowing the CO thread body to move....I think I got that right

My preload on all four corners is set at one inch tighter.

My bound/rebound (damping) settings are set as follows.

1softest/32hardest

Daily Driving:
F-6/R-3

Sprited Street:
F-10/R-8

Mountain Road:
F-16/R-14

I haven't done the following, but my settings will be as follows...

Autocross:
F-18/R-16

Road Course:
Upped Pre-load to 1-1/2"
F-20/R-18

Drag Racing:
Upped Pre-load rear only 2"
Reduced Preload front only 1"
F-25/R-32 (higher rear to negate weight transfer on launch)

Ok got it! I preloaded the spring about an in, maybe a little more, But I know know that you have to take it off the knuckle and spins it to raise and lower it. I had it all wrong. :jester: Well, Back to the shop to give it another try. The wheel gap on the back is about 4in now. :lol: Thanks for the help man, If I run into any problems I'll let you know. :thumbsup:
 

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AdvanSRT-4 said:
neonelite10 said:
AdvanSRT-4 said:
madneon said:
Since there seems to be a few on here runnin the BC's we need to do a mass pm or post to find out the best set up for our rides (ie, spring preload ...etc) I have adjusted my preload but after reading this I might tighten my preload a little I didnt realize that makin it looser would give me a bouncer ride if anyone has any more input post or pm....oh yeah the bottom ring if you loosen that and spin the CO housing it will lower or raise the car after you are done tighten it back up

I like that idea. Would be nice to know. :thumbsup:

I'm still kind of lost about the bottom ring. I thought you adjust the top ring to lower it. :huh: I'm lost :lol: (Like I said earlier, I'm learning)

The top rings that are immediately below the spring are for preload, yo uloosen the lowest of the two, and raise the upper ring to raise the preload, or lower it to reduce preload. The lowest ring that is above the mounting threaded body is how you raise/lower the overall height of the car.

To lower the car, you must first preload your springs, you do this by simply removing the wheel, leaving everything bolted up, and tighten the upper ring until the spring no longer moves freely, then raise it more to rais the preload, on my car, I gave it one inch of preload on each corner, then you tighten the second lockring against the upper one to lock your spring perch (first lockring). After you are done measure each rear coilover from the tophat to the first lockring, the rear two coilovers should have the same measurement, and the front two should also be the same, but the fronts will be different than the rears because the two springs are different lengths.

After you have set the preload on all four corners, put the wheels back on the car, and drive it around the block (but not too far), to make sure your tires are flat on the ground.

Then measure the cars ride height from the ground to each fender lip, and add whatever measurement you want the car to sit at to your equation. Then you have the distance you will raise or lower the bracket/body of the coilover.

So lets say you measured the car at 23-1/2 inches off the ground on your front fenderlip, and your rear is 24-1/2" off the ground, and you want your car to sit at 24" all around. You would lower the rear 1/2", and raise the front 1/2", duh.....heres how you do that.......

Raise the front of the car in the air, take off the front tires, loosen the lowermost lockring (3rd one), unbolt the coilover from the knuckle and slide it off of the knuckle, push the coilover out of the way so you have room to turn the lower mounting body 360*, since you want to raise the front, you would unscrew (clockwise) the lower mounting body 4 times (each turn is approximately 1/8"). Then bolt it back onto the knuckle, and lock the lower lockring against the mounting body, it is easier to lock it against it if the coilover is bolted up already, the same for unlocking it.

Do the same for the rear, but you want to turn the body in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise), this shortens the coilover, lowering the car.

There is an easier way to do it, by twisting the coilover body without unbolting it, but this is VERY bad for the internal valving, so don't be lazy, do it the right way!!!

Then set the car on the ground, drive around the block, and remeasure, if your measurements were accurate prior to doing the adjustments, your car should be sitting 24" off the ground all around.


madneon said:
Since there seems to be a few on here runnin the BC's we need to do a mass pm or post to find out the best set up for our rides (ie, spring preload ...etc) I have adjusted my preload but after reading this I might tighten my preload a little I didnt realize that makin it looser would give me a bouncer ride if anyone has any more input post or pm....oh yeah the bottom ring is there to keep the ring above tight as well as not allowing the CO thread body to move....I think I got that right

My preload on all four corners is set at one inch tighter.

My bound/rebound (damping) settings are set as follows.

1softest/32hardest

Daily Driving:
F-6/R-3

Sprited Street:
F-10/R-8

Mountain Road:
F-16/R-14

I haven't done the following, but my settings will be as follows...

Autocross:
F-18/R-16

Road Course:
Upped Pre-load to 1-1/2"
F-20/R-18

Drag Racing:
Upped Pre-load rear only 2"
Reduced Preload front only 1"
F-25/R-32 (higher rear to negate weight transfer on launch)

Ok got it! I preloaded the spring about an in, maybe a little more, But I know know that you have to take it off the knuckle and spins it to raise and lower it. I had it all wrong. :jester: Well, Back to the shop to give it another try. The wheel gap on the back is about 4in now. :lol: Thanks for the help man, If I run into any problems I'll let you know. :thumbsup:


Yeah, by doing the way you did it, you are DRASTICALLY losing suspension travel, and the ride probably sucked! You also ran the possibility of damaging the bumpstop enough to do some seal damage (I am against killing seals, LOL).

Yeah, if you need anymore assistance, I'm no expert, but I will help the best I can!
 

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Discussion Starter #50
neonelite10 said:
AdvanSRT-4 said:
neonelite10 said:
AdvanSRT-4 said:
madneon said:
Since there seems to be a few on here runnin the BC's we need to do a mass pm or post to find out the best set up for our rides (ie, spring preload ...etc) I have adjusted my preload but after reading this I might tighten my preload a little I didnt realize that makin it looser would give me a bouncer ride if anyone has any more input post or pm....oh yeah the bottom ring if you loosen that and spin the CO housing it will lower or raise the car after you are done tighten it back up

I like that idea. Would be nice to know. :thumbsup:

I'm still kind of lost about the bottom ring. I thought you adjust the top ring to lower it. :huh: I'm lost :lol: (Like I said earlier, I'm learning)

The top rings that are immediately below the spring are for preload, yo uloosen the lowest of the two, and raise the upper ring to raise the preload, or lower it to reduce preload. The lowest ring that is above the mounting threaded body is how you raise/lower the overall height of the car.

To lower the car, you must first preload your springs, you do this by simply removing the wheel, leaving everything bolted up, and tighten the upper ring until the spring no longer moves freely, then raise it more to rais the preload, on my car, I gave it one inch of preload on each corner, then you tighten the second lockring against the upper one to lock your spring perch (first lockring). After you are done measure each rear coilover from the tophat to the first lockring, the rear two coilovers should have the same measurement, and the front two should also be the same, but the fronts will be different than the rears because the two springs are different lengths.

After you have set the preload on all four corners, put the wheels back on the car, and drive it around the block (but not too far), to make sure your tires are flat on the ground.

Then measure the cars ride height from the ground to each fender lip, and add whatever measurement you want the car to sit at to your equation. Then you have the distance you will raise or lower the bracket/body of the coilover.

So lets say you measured the car at 23-1/2 inches off the ground on your front fenderlip, and your rear is 24-1/2" off the ground, and you want your car to sit at 24" all around. You would lower the rear 1/2", and raise the front 1/2", duh.....heres how you do that.......

Raise the front of the car in the air, take off the front tires, loosen the lowermost lockring (3rd one), unbolt the coilover from the knuckle and slide it off of the knuckle, push the coilover out of the way so you have room to turn the lower mounting body 360*, since you want to raise the front, you would unscrew (clockwise) the lower mounting body 4 times (each turn is approximately 1/8"). Then bolt it back onto the knuckle, and lock the lower lockring against the mounting body, it is easier to lock it against it if the coilover is bolted up already, the same for unlocking it.

Do the same for the rear, but you want to turn the body in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise), this shortens the coilover, lowering the car.

There is an easier way to do it, by twisting the coilover body without unbolting it, but this is VERY bad for the internal valving, so don't be lazy, do it the right way!!!

Then set the car on the ground, drive around the block, and remeasure, if your measurements were accurate prior to doing the adjustments, your car should be sitting 24" off the ground all around.


madneon said:
Since there seems to be a few on here runnin the BC's we need to do a mass pm or post to find out the best set up for our rides (ie, spring preload ...etc) I have adjusted my preload but after reading this I might tighten my preload a little I didnt realize that makin it looser would give me a bouncer ride if anyone has any more input post or pm....oh yeah the bottom ring is there to keep the ring above tight as well as not allowing the CO thread body to move....I think I got that right

My preload on all four corners is set at one inch tighter.

My bound/rebound (damping) settings are set as follows.

1softest/32hardest

Daily Driving:
F-6/R-3

Sprited Street:
F-10/R-8

Mountain Road:
F-16/R-14

I haven't done the following, but my settings will be as follows...

Autocross:
F-18/R-16

Road Course:
Upped Pre-load to 1-1/2"
F-20/R-18

Drag Racing:
Upped Pre-load rear only 2"
Reduced Preload front only 1"
F-25/R-32 (higher rear to negate weight transfer on launch)

Ok got it! I preloaded the spring about an in, maybe a little more, But I know know that you have to take it off the knuckle and spins it to raise and lower it. I had it all wrong. :jester: Well, Back to the shop to give it another try. The wheel gap on the back is about 4in now. :lol: Thanks for the help man, If I run into any problems I'll let you know. :thumbsup:


Yeah, by doing the way you did it, you are DRASTICALLY losing suspension travel, and the ride probably sucked! You also ran the possibility of damaging the bumpstop enough to do some seal damage (I am against killing seals, LOL).

Yeah, if you need anymore assistance, I'm no expert, but I will help the best I can!

All finished now. :thumbsup: The ride is fantastic!! Better than stock!! I preloaded the spring about an in, maybe a little more, But I lowered the back a little to much. It slightley rubs on the fender lip (Backs).:stab: It needs to be raised a little more, and It'll be golden.

As for the alignment, Man was it all outta wack. I really liked how easy it is to adjust the camber with the pillow mounts. You can fine tune it, and I'm running -1.0 on the fronts, and -.09 on the rears.

So the less you preload the spring, the better the ride? Or vise versa?
 

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You might try preloading 1/2" instead of 1" to get a little softer ride, when you bolt up the knuckle, pull the top of the wheel toward you as much as possible then tighten the bolts on the knuckle, then get it aligned, pulling the top of the wheel should net you 0* of camber, that is, if your alignment was straight before you started. Then take it down and tell them about the adjustment on the pillowball mounts in the front.

I did this to mine and my camber was PERFECTLY zeroed when I went to the alignment shop, I had them put -1* front and rear, and +0.5* toe out front to give me better control around the twisties.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
neonelite10 said:
You might try preloading 1/2" instead of 1" to get a little softer ride, when you bolt up the knuckle, pull the top of the wheel toward you as much as possible then tighten the bolts on the knuckle, then get it aligned, pulling the top of the wheel should net you 0* of camber, that is, if your alignment was straight before you started. Then take it down and tell them about the adjustment on the pillowball mounts in the front.

I did this to mine and my camber was PERFECTLY zeroed when I went to the alignment shop, I had them put -1* front and rear, and +0.5* toe out front to give me better control around the twisties.
I mean the ride is damn good now, I was just curious if you were to preload it a little less, it would ride better.

As for the alignment, I aligned it today and my specs were all wacked out. I know all about alignment specs etc etc. I align cars 12hrs a day.:jester:

Thanks for the help man, I appreciate it.:thumbsup:
 

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So is a prelaod of 1" go for every coilover company or just BC's specs. As I tightened them to where I felt they were nice and snug. I think I might go back and re-adjust everything by calculation.
 

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OrAnGe-SrT4 said:
So is a prelaod of 1" go for every coilover company or just BC's specs. As I tightened them to where I felt they were nice and snug. I think I might go back and re-adjust everything by calculation.
The one inch preload is what I would recommend for a Neon or SRT-4 on the 8k front/4k rear spring rates on the BC's, as far as other coilovers, I can't tell you what would be the right preload for increased feel, as most other coilovers have different spring rates.


As far as Advans question, are you talking about a better ride, as in softer, or a better ride as in, more control. Reducing the amount of preload would decrease the stiffness of the ride, but your control, and road feel will decrease, but, due to the nature of the BC's, I bolted mine on at no preload at all, and the car was still very controlled. I have the inverteds, but I think that only gives me the unsprung weight advantage, and the cooler (temp) strut body due to it being reversed (gas/fluid), so I don't think the feel would be all that much different.
 

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neonelite10 said:
OrAnGe-SrT4 said:
So is a prelaod of 1" go for every coilover company or just BC's specs. As I tightened them to where I felt they were nice and snug. I think I might go back and re-adjust everything by calculation.
The one inch preload is what I would recommend for a Neon or SRT-4 on the 8k front/4k rear spring rates on the BC's, as far as other coilovers, I can't tell you what would be the right preload for increased feel, as most other coilovers have different spring rates.
Well my CO's are 7K fronts and 6K rears. Just wondering if I could go more then 1" for a preload.
 

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OrAnGe-SrT4 said:
neonelite10 said:
OrAnGe-SrT4 said:
So is a prelaod of 1" go for every coilover company or just BC's specs. As I tightened them to where I felt they were nice and snug. I think I might go back and re-adjust everything by calculation.
The one inch preload is what I would recommend for a Neon or SRT-4 on the 8k front/4k rear spring rates on the BC's, as far as other coilovers, I can't tell you what would be the right preload for increased feel, as most other coilovers have different spring rates.
Well my CO's are 7K fronts and 6K rears. Just wondering if I could go more then 1" for a preload.
On your front's I would preload between 1/2" and 3/4", on the rears I would preload less, maybe 1/2" at most, or you could just snug them up, just remember to measure so that each side is the same.
 

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neonelite10 said:
AdvanSRT-4 said:
madneon said:
Since there seems to be a few on here runnin the BC's we need to do a mass pm or post to find out the best set up for our rides (ie, spring preload ...etc) I have adjusted my preload but after reading this I might tighten my preload a little I didnt realize that makin it looser would give me a bouncer ride if anyone has any more input post or pm....oh yeah the bottom ring if you loosen that and spin the CO housing it will lower or raise the car after you are done tighten it back up

I like that idea. Would be nice to know. :thumbsup:

I'm still kind of lost about the bottom ring. I thought you adjust the top ring to lower it. :huh: I'm lost :lol: (Like I said earlier, I'm learning)

The top rings that are immediately below the spring are for preload, yo uloosen the lowest of the two, and raise the upper ring to raise the preload, or lower it to reduce preload. The lowest ring that is above the mounting threaded body is how you raise/lower the overall height of the car.

To lower the car, you must first preload your springs, you do this by simply removing the wheel, leaving everything bolted up, and tighten the upper ring until the spring no longer moves freely, then raise it more to rais the preload, on my car, I gave it one inch of preload on each corner, then you tighten the second lockring against the upper one to lock your spring perch (first lockring). After you are done measure each rear coilover from the tophat to the first lockring, the rear two coilovers should have the same measurement, and the front two should also be the same, but the fronts will be different than the rears because the two springs are different lengths.

After you have set the preload on all four corners, put the wheels back on the car, and drive it around the block (but not too far), to make sure your tires are flat on the ground.

Then measure the cars ride height from the ground to each fender lip, and add whatever measurement you want the car to sit at to your equation. Then you have the distance you will raise or lower the bracket/body of the coilover.

So lets say you measured the car at 23-1/2 inches off the ground on your front fenderlip, and your rear is 24-1/2" off the ground, and you want your car to sit at 24" all around. You would lower the rear 1/2", and raise the front 1/2", duh.....heres how you do that.......

Raise the front of the car in the air, take off the front tires, loosen the lowermost lockring (3rd one), unbolt the coilover from the knuckle and slide it off of the knuckle, push the coilover out of the way so you have room to turn the lower mounting body 360*, since you want to raise the front, you would unscrew (clockwise) the lower mounting body 4 times (each turn is approximately 1/8"). Then bolt it back onto the knuckle, and lock the lower lockring against the mounting body, it is easier to lock it against it if the coilover is bolted up already, the same for unlocking it.

Do the same for the rear, but you want to turn the body in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise), this shortens the coilover, lowering the car.

There is an easier way to do it, by twisting the coilover body without unbolting it, but this is VERY bad for the internal valving, so don't be lazy, do it the right way!!!

Then set the car on the ground, drive around the block, and remeasure, if your measurements were accurate prior to doing the adjustments, your car should be sitting 24" off the ground all around.


madneon said:
Since there seems to be a few on here runnin the BC's we need to do a mass pm or post to find out the best set up for our rides (ie, spring preload ...etc) I have adjusted my preload but after reading this I might tighten my preload a little I didnt realize that makin it looser would give me a bouncer ride if anyone has any more input post or pm....oh yeah the bottom ring is there to keep the ring above tight as well as not allowing the CO thread body to move....I think I got that right

My preload on all four corners is set at one inch tighter.

My bound/rebound (damping) settings are set as follows.

1softest/32hardest

Daily Driving:
F-6/R-3

Sprited Street:
F-10/R-8

Mountain Road:
F-16/R-14

I haven't done the following, but my settings will be as follows...

Autocross:
F-18/R-16

Road Course:
Upped Pre-load to 1-1/2"
F-20/R-18

Drag Racing:
Upped Pre-load rear only 2"
Reduced Preload front only 1"
F-25/R-32 (higher rear to negate weight transfer on launch)
ohhhhh some1 sticky this post....it has good info ...thanx neonlite10
 

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Discussion Starter #60
X2. ^ Very good information in there!!

Well I took the car for some testing today, hit some nice corners, but the backs are rubbing. :lol: Time to raise em up a lill bit.
 
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