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im putting an EGT in my srt-4 and i was wondering what are good operating limits? what would be the yellow area where im getting close to a problem but o.k. for WOT? and what point should i not EVER go pass for engine safety
Egt Limits
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im curious to know this too...is it hard to put in a egt gauge?
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no it's not just same as any other exhaust probe. just drill and tap into the down pipe as close the turbo as you can get it. or have a bung welded into place in the downpipe or if you don't plan on changing the 02 housing like i am. stick it somewhere along there. but i too want to know safe opt temps on egt. i have the gauge ready to go whenver i get around to ordering my new dp.
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You need to install the probe in the manifold before the turbo for an accurate reading. With the probe in that location you don't want to go above 1600. My EGT gauge reads about 1300-1400 cruising on the higway and about 1100-1200 at slower cruising speeds. At WOT it almost gets to 1600 by redline.
The problem with putting the probe after the turbo is that the exhaust gas has already cooled down a lot by then and your readings will vary more based on what exhaust system you are running and stuff like that. You can do it, you are just going to have lower readings though.
The problem with putting the probe after the turbo is that the exhaust gas has already cooled down a lot by then and your readings will vary more based on what exhaust system you are running and stuff like that. You can do it, you are just going to have lower readings though.
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but they call it the exhaust gas temperature....
wouldn't your setup be..intake gas temp?
wouldn't your setup be..intake gas temp?
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nope, there is exhaust before the turbo too....Soccer69er said:
Before the turbo is a lot better (and more difficult to install) when comparing numbers that originally come from the SRT Team, as they tend to use the T1T placement when referring to EGT's...
After the turbo works if you are only comparing to your own data...which is okay... just use stock as a baseline
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my installation booklet for my mopar egt gauge said to install after turbo. so i'm assuming if that's not tru, just do it on the 3rd exhaust runner that leads into the turbo?
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jasonyates said:
is ur car stock or modded? if modded please list. also what is good any bad if anyone knows?
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I think if your gonna install it in the runners, then install it on the 1st, since it's the furthest away, it should already run more lean. I would think that in the 3rd runner would be bad, since it would partially block the wastegate ...
Also, I believe I read, while being hard to do, it's best to tap your manifold while the car is running, that way all the little bits of metal flow freely out the exhaust.
Now, remember, if you install BEFORE the turbo, you should probably REMOVE the manifold and MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN UP YOUR DEBRIS!
Also, I believe I read, while being hard to do, it's best to tap your manifold while the car is running, that way all the little bits of metal flow freely out the exhaust.
Now, remember, if you install BEFORE the turbo, you should probably REMOVE the manifold and MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN UP YOUR DEBRIS!
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oh ok, gotcha.
If you get to 1600 degrees, you hit the limit... Don't go over that. Melting point is around 1800 if remember correctly so that gives you an idea....
At 1600, you can hit the manifold with a hammer and leave a mark! You get it?
And when I say 1600 is the limit... It doesn't mean you can stay ther for a long time... Dont keep it there*...
At 1600, you can hit the manifold with a hammer and leave a mark! You get it?
And when I say 1600 is the limit... It doesn't mean you can stay ther for a long time... Dont keep it there*...
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I'm amazed at the amount of misinformation that can be had from just a single thread :eeeek:
Okay, somebody decided to follow the directions, admirable trait. The directions were written by Autometer, not Mopar, and are as generic and 'safe' as possible. They know that only a handful of buyers would actually remove the exhaust manifold, remove the compressor/turbine wheel, and do the job right. Write for the lowest common denominater, the average Neon owner...
Runner One is also a no-go, the SRT-4 engine is not an old turbo Dodge, but it is a better idea than placing it behind the turbo. If you are only going to run one EGT probe, you need to place it after all four runners have converged. Otherwise, you have one cylinder monitored, and three eating themselves alive.
T1T is after the runners converge, before the turbo, and easy to place in the way of the Wastegate Actuator Arm. There are photos out there of the install. They may even be located on Dodge-SRT4.com in the how-to section. If not, it's a good reason for me to finish the revamp of my website to make the images available there again.
Before anyone challenges me on the placement, don't bother. The placement is not my choice, it is directly from the SRT Team. When it comes to the SRT-4 engine, I don't mess around with internet tunerz or 'this is how I've always done it' people for information. The people that run 40 continuous hour dyno sessions know how to instrument their engine.
Regards,
Dale
Okay, somebody decided to follow the directions, admirable trait. The directions were written by Autometer, not Mopar, and are as generic and 'safe' as possible. They know that only a handful of buyers would actually remove the exhaust manifold, remove the compressor/turbine wheel, and do the job right. Write for the lowest common denominater, the average Neon owner...
Runner One is also a no-go, the SRT-4 engine is not an old turbo Dodge, but it is a better idea than placing it behind the turbo. If you are only going to run one EGT probe, you need to place it after all four runners have converged. Otherwise, you have one cylinder monitored, and three eating themselves alive.
T1T is after the runners converge, before the turbo, and easy to place in the way of the Wastegate Actuator Arm. There are photos out there of the install. They may even be located on Dodge-SRT4.com in the how-to section. If not, it's a good reason for me to finish the revamp of my website to make the images available there again.
Before anyone challenges me on the placement, don't bother. The placement is not my choice, it is directly from the SRT Team. When it comes to the SRT-4 engine, I don't mess around with internet tunerz or 'this is how I've always done it' people for information. The people that run 40 continuous hour dyno sessions know how to instrument their engine.
Regards,
Dale
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slamcool said:
You will exceed 1600 with an OEM engine, with OEM boost, and OEM PCM...
With Stage Two, it's easy to pin the Autometer SRT EGT gauge... get it?
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slamcool said:
Yes, I do... and I have.... and so have you...
I've been told that S2 is designed to peak at 1720. It runs above 1600 at WOT.
This engine is well designed for Mopar Performance products. If you aren't controlling timing, fuel, and boost, then I wouldn't recommend even running the car, but if you've got a good handle on those parameters over a variety of environmental conditions and various load simulations, then there is no problem with running the car as designed. Iconel is a good thing in my world...
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