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I just figured since there are some Greddy E-Manage owners out there and many are new to it, this thread might be useful for the E-manage Veteran users to help others. And keep the load of Hector from Exhaust Depot.
help with:
It's a car hackers paradise with pirated copies of the support tool available, homade chip cables, intracate circuit board schematics etc... It's really a sweet product that I definitely wish would become more widely used!
HERE it is in MS Word .doc format
[url="http://home.comcast.net/~pbateman/emanage1_0.doc"]http://home.comcast.net/~pbateman/emanage1_0.doc[/url]
And in text..
Inside the E-Manage
The E-Manage is such a “universal� unit that there is a little bit of pre-config that has to be done before you mount the main control box or hook up any wires. There are some jumpers inside that need to be checked/changed and the 3 POTentiometers under the front panel that need to be set. Always set the 5 front Airflow Adjust POTS to 0 and do all the adjustment with a laptop or the E-01. You will NOT get accurate or repeatable results using them!
To open the unit remove the four screws from the bottom and the 4 hex head screws from the front cover. The front cover is the side with the USB jack and the 5 exposed “Airflow Adjust� POTs. You DO NOT need to remove the back cover. After the front cover is off slide the board out gently. This is where we want to check the jumpers. All NEW E-Manages are shipped with these settings in the correct default (no V-Tec) values, but I would double check. The Jumpers need to be set like this:
Jumper - Setting
JP1 - 1-2
JP2 - 1-2
JP3 - 1-2
JP4 - OPEN
JP5 - OPEN
JP6 - OPEN
JP7 - 1-2
At this point you can slide the board back in and install the 4 bottom screws to hold it in place. Leave the cover off for now. The front that is now exposed is where the 3 POTs are for the Airflow Sensor type. These are VERY important so double check. The POTs we are worried about are 1-3 starting from the left to right. The far right POTs 5&6 don’t matter because we just disabled V-Tec with the Jumpers!
POT - Setting
1 - 2
2 - 4
3 - 1
If these are correct the Airflow Sensor should read out as TY_PR_2. You’ll see that either on the laptop Support Software or E-01 once it’s all done.
The Main E-Manage Wiring
The basic wiring on the E-Manage unit consists of:
Power
Ground
Airflow In (MAP)
Airflow Out (MAP)
Tach/RPM
Throttle Position (TP)
The wiring should be tapped off the main PCM harnesses. You will only need to attack harness C1 (Black) and C2 (Orange). Always have a copy of your E-Manage manual and PCM diagrams handy!! Always check the wires by pin location. Some wire colorings vary slightly through production. It’s always good to double check!
Here is how the wiring corresponds:
E-Manage - PCM Harness Location
Power [Red] - C1 - 11 - [Dark Blue/Red] This is a RUN-START +12v
Ground [Black] - C1 - 9 - [Black/White] Good ground, some people go straight to the battery.
Airflow In [White] - C2 - 23 - [Dark Green/Red] This is the Input of the MAP signal. This wire needs to be cut and the end going to the CAR connected here. VERY IMPORTANT
Airflow Out [Green] - C2 - 23 - [Dark Green/Red] This is the Output of the
MAP signal. This wire needs to be cut and the end going to the PCM connected here. VERY IMPORTANT
Tach/RPM [Brown] - Needs to be connected to a “tach� source such as an MSD tach driver.
Throttle Position [Gray] - C2 - 21 - [Orange/Dark Blue stripe] Throttle Position
Injector Harness
Make sure you get a Greddy brand harness and not some knockoff or the colors will be off! This "harness" is a bunch of wires you connect in to the existing main E-Manage harness. They come with the proper pins on them and just click in to the main connector. The E-Manage is even available with the harness new as well.
The wiring needed on the injector harness consists of:
E-Manage - PCM Harness Location
Injector Channel 1 [Blue/Red] - C2 – 14 – [White/Dark Blue] Injector Control 1
Injector Channel 2 [Orange/Red] - C2 – 13 – [Tan] Injector Control 2
Injector Channel 3 [Yellow/Red] - C2 – 12 – [Yellow/White] Injector Control 3
Injector Channel 4 [Purple/Red] - C2 – 11 – [Light Blue/Brown] Injector Control 4
Ground [Black/Red] - C1 - 9 - [Black/White] Good ground, some people go straight to the battery.
Ignition Harness
Yes, it can work, but needs modification! Just don’t hook it up. You will fry the IC for the Ignition Control. If you have the harness, tape the wires and stay tuned for more info!
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__________________________________________________
Tach adapter wiring - by E.D.
MSD 8913 Tach Adapter/Driver
Make sure you install the tach adapter in the area shown in the pic and not at the PCM connector as you may experience signal loss.
Cut greenwire with orange stripe on the coil. This is the VCC for the coil. Attach the red with green stripe TOWARDS the COIL. Attach the solid red wire towards the POWER DISTRIBUTION.
The black is ground, I like to attach it to the battery cable. The grey is your tach signal. The grey wire will connect to the AFC/SAFCII green wire.
You can tie wrap the unit to the hoses and vacuum lines on the side of the battery tray.
If you dont have a soldering iron, then you should not be purchasing this item.
~Exhaust Depot
Some E-Manage/e-01 tuning tips by: reed32: Posted 01-08-2006 -- Thanks reed!
1) The Eo1/emanage allows you to see three features on a graph,meter, bar graph tec.. The three features you want viewable is the boost, throttle, a/f reading from a wideband of course.
2) Setting Boost:
There also three features when setting the boost.
a) set feature: is the actual boost you are running and is in percents. its al based on the turbos flow so it will vary from turbo to turbo. start around
48% which will be around 17-19psi and work your way from there.
b)Gain feature:
gain feature is the bleed off the soleniod which gives you a good torque curve and a faster spool. the gain must be within 3-7% off the set but normal people go 3-5% from the set.
c) The Start feature:
The start feature has to be 2 points off the actual boost. Example. you want 18psi of boost so the start would be set at 16psi. this is for the wastegate to open up. if you have the start to low then you will cause over boost (spike). another example:
low boost 18psi
set 48%
gain 45%
start 16psi
If you adjust your gain to much then it will throw off your set value(boost) so you might have to increase or lower the set.
3)Map clamp:
is in the boost limiter (d) emanage but you have to set under set up in the e01. The higher the map clamp (4.4vlts for stage 1/0) makes the car richer. The lower the map clamp (4.0-4.2 stage 1/0) leans the car out. watch out though, if you pull to much fuel for that map voltage then timing issues will occur. The neat thing about the e01 is that you can set different map clamps throughout the curve at certain rpms.
example: 4.0vlts from 3500-4500rpms
4.4 vlts from 4500-6200 rpms etc..
4)E01 boost safty feature
go to and click on set up in the e01, then click on warning. It has a boost limiter you click on with the e01 button and scroll clockwise vise versa to move up and down the boost. The boost you set it at will not allow the turbo to boost beyond that boost mark. if it does there a limiter underneath the boost limiter and it will cut your over boost down in a percent for you (ive been told to set this at -20%).
5) tunning: airflow adjustment map
From what informatin ive been given you want the a/f to be starting at 11.8 dropping to 11.6 at redline for a safe tune. In the airflow map you want to start full throttle at 70%-100%(left colum of the chart) for each columnand row. To pull fuel just click on the e01 button,twist the button left to subtract fuel and right to add fuel. Now lets say you want to pull 2% of fuel @4k, click menu,select emanage, click on airflow adjustment map and go to 4k and subtract 2%from 70%-100% throttle column.
you can highlight serveral rows and columns but i don't know that yet. Pull fuel little at a time to be on the safe side.
6) Saving fuel maps
The e01 allows you to save up to three fuel maps onto the sim card. look under the emanage in the menu. find the load/save.
click save and then go down to one, where it says either Data1,2,3 or Map 1,2,3. Click one of the three fuel maps and go down to press okay. so you can make a summer map, winter map and a race gas map whatever you like them to be. to load each map you just click on load and press okay.
7) the fun part: record/playback mode
a) to record : press the down arrow on the e01 controller. look in the lower right corner to see if the timer started.
b) to stop recording: once you've completed the run press the down arrow again.
c)to playback: pull over
![]()
. hold the e01 button down for 3-5 seconds or until the play feature is flashing at the top of the e01 screen.
d) rotate the controller button to scroll every rpm,boost,afr,map voltage,etc..
e) how to look at certain cells during playback mode.
simply hit the menu button twice, go to the airflow adjustment map inside the emanage and look for a box not highlighted. Thats the cell you are at, at that part of the fuel curve. hit enter to highlight the box and subtract /ADD FUEL.
f) During playback mode you can change what features you want to monitor during you run. just hit the menu button once and then press the down arrow to highlight a feature you want to change. once again, move the e01 button around to scroll up and down the list of options. once you found the feature you want hit enter. to play the run over with the new feature hit enter (e01 button) and it will play it back again. notice you can control how fast you want it to play back meaning you can do it rpm by rpm as slow as you want by twisting the e01 button.
help with:
- Install
- set up
- Wiring
- Maps
A fully configured Emanage can now be bought from Exhaust Depot
Please try to keep this thread "E-Manage" only.
Please try to keep this thread "E-Manage" only.
____________________________________________________________
E-Manage Mini Wiring How To by SY04SRT4
It's a car hackers paradise with pirated copies of the support tool available, homade chip cables, intracate circuit board schematics etc... It's really a sweet product that I definitely wish would become more widely used!
HERE it is in MS Word .doc format
[url="http://home.comcast.net/~pbateman/emanage1_0.doc"]http://home.comcast.net/~pbateman/emanage1_0.doc[/url]
And in text..
E-Manage Mini Config/Wiring How To
Inside the E-Manage
The E-Manage is such a “universal� unit that there is a little bit of pre-config that has to be done before you mount the main control box or hook up any wires. There are some jumpers inside that need to be checked/changed and the 3 POTentiometers under the front panel that need to be set. Always set the 5 front Airflow Adjust POTS to 0 and do all the adjustment with a laptop or the E-01. You will NOT get accurate or repeatable results using them!
To open the unit remove the four screws from the bottom and the 4 hex head screws from the front cover. The front cover is the side with the USB jack and the 5 exposed “Airflow Adjust� POTs. You DO NOT need to remove the back cover. After the front cover is off slide the board out gently. This is where we want to check the jumpers. All NEW E-Manages are shipped with these settings in the correct default (no V-Tec) values, but I would double check. The Jumpers need to be set like this:
Jumper - Setting
JP1 - 1-2
JP2 - 1-2
JP3 - 1-2
JP4 - OPEN
JP5 - OPEN
JP6 - OPEN
JP7 - 1-2
At this point you can slide the board back in and install the 4 bottom screws to hold it in place. Leave the cover off for now. The front that is now exposed is where the 3 POTs are for the Airflow Sensor type. These are VERY important so double check. The POTs we are worried about are 1-3 starting from the left to right. The far right POTs 5&6 don’t matter because we just disabled V-Tec with the Jumpers!
POT - Setting
1 - 2
2 - 4
3 - 1
If these are correct the Airflow Sensor should read out as TY_PR_2. You’ll see that either on the laptop Support Software or E-01 once it’s all done.
The Main E-Manage Wiring
The basic wiring on the E-Manage unit consists of:
Power
Ground
Airflow In (MAP)
Airflow Out (MAP)
Tach/RPM
Throttle Position (TP)
The wiring should be tapped off the main PCM harnesses. You will only need to attack harness C1 (Black) and C2 (Orange). Always have a copy of your E-Manage manual and PCM diagrams handy!! Always check the wires by pin location. Some wire colorings vary slightly through production. It’s always good to double check!
Here is how the wiring corresponds:
E-Manage - PCM Harness Location
Power [Red] - C1 - 11 - [Dark Blue/Red] This is a RUN-START +12v
Ground [Black] - C1 - 9 - [Black/White] Good ground, some people go straight to the battery.
Airflow In [White] - C2 - 23 - [Dark Green/Red] This is the Input of the MAP signal. This wire needs to be cut and the end going to the CAR connected here. VERY IMPORTANT
Airflow Out [Green] - C2 - 23 - [Dark Green/Red] This is the Output of the
MAP signal. This wire needs to be cut and the end going to the PCM connected here. VERY IMPORTANT
Tach/RPM [Brown] - Needs to be connected to a “tach� source such as an MSD tach driver.
Throttle Position [Gray] - C2 - 21 - [Orange/Dark Blue stripe] Throttle Position
Injector Harness
Make sure you get a Greddy brand harness and not some knockoff or the colors will be off! This "harness" is a bunch of wires you connect in to the existing main E-Manage harness. They come with the proper pins on them and just click in to the main connector. The E-Manage is even available with the harness new as well.
The wiring needed on the injector harness consists of:
E-Manage - PCM Harness Location
Injector Channel 1 [Blue/Red] - C2 – 14 – [White/Dark Blue] Injector Control 1
Injector Channel 2 [Orange/Red] - C2 – 13 – [Tan] Injector Control 2
Injector Channel 3 [Yellow/Red] - C2 – 12 – [Yellow/White] Injector Control 3
Injector Channel 4 [Purple/Red] - C2 – 11 – [Light Blue/Brown] Injector Control 4
Ground [Black/Red] - C1 - 9 - [Black/White] Good ground, some people go straight to the battery.
Ignition Harness
Yes, it can work, but needs modification! Just don’t hook it up. You will fry the IC for the Ignition Control. If you have the harness, tape the wires and stay tuned for more info!
___________________________________________________________________
Mopar Injector Conversions
Below are the Mopar injector sizing then converted to 43.5psi of fuel pressure. This is useful once you go with larger injectors and need the conversion numbers to scale down the new larger injectors (530cc, 650cc, 750cc etc)
SQRT of New Pressure/Old Pressure = Value * OLD_FLOW_RATE
Convert injector rating @ 58 psi to 43.5 psi:
SQRT of 43.5/58 = .866025 * INJECTOR_FLOW_RATE
Stock 2003 SRT4 (524cc/min @ 58# * .866025 = 454cc/min @ 43.5 psi)
Stage 1/2004 SRT4 (577cc/min @ 58# * .866025 = 500cc/min @ 43.5 psi)
Stage 2 (682cc/min @ 58# * .866025 = 591cc/min @ 43.5 psi)
SQRT of New Pressure/Old Pressure = Value * OLD_FLOW_RATE
Convert injector rating @ 58 psi to 43.5 psi:
SQRT of 43.5/58 = .866025 * INJECTOR_FLOW_RATE
Stock 2003 SRT4 (524cc/min @ 58# * .866025 = 454cc/min @ 43.5 psi)
Stage 1/2004 SRT4 (577cc/min @ 58# * .866025 = 500cc/min @ 43.5 psi)
Stage 2 (682cc/min @ 58# * .866025 = 591cc/min @ 43.5 psi)
__________________________________________________
Tach adapter wiring - by E.D.
MSD 8913 Tach Adapter/Driver
Make sure you install the tach adapter in the area shown in the pic and not at the PCM connector as you may experience signal loss.
Cut greenwire with orange stripe on the coil. This is the VCC for the coil. Attach the red with green stripe TOWARDS the COIL. Attach the solid red wire towards the POWER DISTRIBUTION.
The black is ground, I like to attach it to the battery cable. The grey is your tach signal. The grey wire will connect to the AFC/SAFCII green wire.
You can tie wrap the unit to the hoses and vacuum lines on the side of the battery tray.
If you dont have a soldering iron, then you should not be purchasing this item.
~Exhaust Depot
Some E-Manage/e-01 tuning tips by: reed32: Posted 01-08-2006 -- Thanks reed!
1) The Eo1/emanage allows you to see three features on a graph,meter, bar graph tec.. The three features you want viewable is the boost, throttle, a/f reading from a wideband of course.
2) Setting Boost:
There also three features when setting the boost.
a) set feature: is the actual boost you are running and is in percents. its al based on the turbos flow so it will vary from turbo to turbo. start around
48% which will be around 17-19psi and work your way from there.
b)Gain feature:
gain feature is the bleed off the soleniod which gives you a good torque curve and a faster spool. the gain must be within 3-7% off the set but normal people go 3-5% from the set.
c) The Start feature:
The start feature has to be 2 points off the actual boost. Example. you want 18psi of boost so the start would be set at 16psi. this is for the wastegate to open up. if you have the start to low then you will cause over boost (spike). another example:
low boost 18psi
set 48%
gain 45%
start 16psi
If you adjust your gain to much then it will throw off your set value(boost) so you might have to increase or lower the set.
3)Map clamp:
is in the boost limiter (d) emanage but you have to set under set up in the e01. The higher the map clamp (4.4vlts for stage 1/0) makes the car richer. The lower the map clamp (4.0-4.2 stage 1/0) leans the car out. watch out though, if you pull to much fuel for that map voltage then timing issues will occur. The neat thing about the e01 is that you can set different map clamps throughout the curve at certain rpms.
example: 4.0vlts from 3500-4500rpms
4.4 vlts from 4500-6200 rpms etc..
4)E01 boost safty feature
go to and click on set up in the e01, then click on warning. It has a boost limiter you click on with the e01 button and scroll clockwise vise versa to move up and down the boost. The boost you set it at will not allow the turbo to boost beyond that boost mark. if it does there a limiter underneath the boost limiter and it will cut your over boost down in a percent for you (ive been told to set this at -20%).
5) tunning: airflow adjustment map
From what informatin ive been given you want the a/f to be starting at 11.8 dropping to 11.6 at redline for a safe tune. In the airflow map you want to start full throttle at 70%-100%(left colum of the chart) for each columnand row. To pull fuel just click on the e01 button,twist the button left to subtract fuel and right to add fuel. Now lets say you want to pull 2% of fuel @4k, click menu,select emanage, click on airflow adjustment map and go to 4k and subtract 2%from 70%-100% throttle column.
you can highlight serveral rows and columns but i don't know that yet. Pull fuel little at a time to be on the safe side.
6) Saving fuel maps
The e01 allows you to save up to three fuel maps onto the sim card. look under the emanage in the menu. find the load/save.
click save and then go down to one, where it says either Data1,2,3 or Map 1,2,3. Click one of the three fuel maps and go down to press okay. so you can make a summer map, winter map and a race gas map whatever you like them to be. to load each map you just click on load and press okay.
7) the fun part: record/playback mode
a) to record : press the down arrow on the e01 controller. look in the lower right corner to see if the timer started.
b) to stop recording: once you've completed the run press the down arrow again.
c)to playback: pull over
d) rotate the controller button to scroll every rpm,boost,afr,map voltage,etc..
e) how to look at certain cells during playback mode.
simply hit the menu button twice, go to the airflow adjustment map inside the emanage and look for a box not highlighted. Thats the cell you are at, at that part of the fuel curve. hit enter to highlight the box and subtract /ADD FUEL.
f) During playback mode you can change what features you want to monitor during you run. just hit the menu button once and then press the down arrow to highlight a feature you want to change. once again, move the e01 button around to scroll up and down the list of options. once you found the feature you want hit enter. to play the run over with the new feature hit enter (e01 button) and it will play it back again. notice you can control how fast you want it to play back meaning you can do it rpm by rpm as slow as you want by twisting the e01 button.
