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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
well fella's its here and i took the time to take pics and measurements for this how-to: first i want to thank speedup for his pics as i took mine a few steps further.

tools you will need:
some spade drill bits 3/8",1/2",13/16", dremel tool or hand drill with cutting disks and small grinding stones, tools to remove your fuel lines from the canister, soldering iron w/solder, wire cutters/strippers, fuel resistant epoxy or jb weld.

parts:
new DW300 fuel pump, old stock bottleneck fixture, 1 worm gear clamp 1.5-2" size, fuel clamps( Do not use worm gear clamps for fuel lines!) heat shrink for the wires

here are the dimensions i took from the fuel pumps.

Stock: 5.655" long
DW300: 4.757" long

a difference of .898". the plastic piece you cut from a old stock bottle neck piece happens to be .900" long as this picture shows.



after i cut it and smoothed it out the final measurement was .896"



final measurement of the pump assembled was 5.505" so about .050" short, but negligible really. i wanted to give measurements in case someone wanted to try something different.




next is remove the connector from the pump canister. remove the connector and whiat i did was de-pin the pump and float sensor wiring. you can write on the connector with a sharpie or mark the wires to make sure they go in the right slot.
the extraction tools i used i bought from summit racing. they are worth the 6$ PICO WIRING 0660PT - Pico Pin Extraction Tools - Overview - SummitRacing.com
grab a set of needle nose pliars and remove this blue backshell/connector cover to access the pins.



next you grab the red handled pick and insert it into any pin like so.



now grab the green one and you will see in the connector a little tab holding the pin. use the green one to lift up that tab and push the red one at the same time. once it moves a little you can pull it from the back side.



Now you don't have to worry about the float sensor wires getting in the way and it makes it easier to cut and strip the wires.
Now measure the harness that went to the old pump and grab the new connector and measure them up next to each other. you will need to cut both sets of wires. make sure once you make a measurement don't forget to add about 1/2" because you have to strip the wires and solder them together. i prefer solder because it makes a better connection.
i tinned all 4 wires before i got ready to solder them together



I used two different sizes of heat shrink. 1 set was to cover the wires after i soldered them together then i grabbed a slightly larger heat shrink tube and went over the first heat shrink tube for extra protection.
once you have your new DW300 connector with the pins on set it aside for later
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Now the next part may be different for a few people. some have queasy's and other's don't for their return. as for me my return line dumps fuel right next to the pickup. so now that this new pump needs constant fuel surrounding it you need to direct fuel into the canister.

i drilled into the side of the canister with a 13/16" spade bit. see i marked a straight line at the top of that tab and the center of the hole is 2 inches from the end of the canister.



i made my fuel return line 5.5 inches to insert into the side of the canister



now some may say they don't want to drill into their canister or put multiple holes in their canister. that is fine what ever makes you comfortable. I know Deatsch Werks say's it needs constant fuel surrounding it to keep it cool. i made couple holes in the canister to make sure the fuel entering the canister has a path to flow down to the pickup so i placed them in certain area's. I put a hole at the top of the canister in case you have a full tank the fuel and move in and out of the canister from the top. i put two holes in the front, one on the bottom, two on the right hand side and 1 on the left hand side.

here are the front two holes. the size's are written in sharpie. the 1/2" hole is drilled right where the number 2 is on the pump.




this pic is after i put the clamp on, but wanted to show you my reference point. the outside edges of the taps that hold the sock is my reference point's.



here is the right hand side and bottom. (fuel sender side the bottom 1/2" hole is centered at 1.5" as you will see when i drill the hole. the other hole is directly above it before the sender.




this shows the left side and top where i drill the hole's. the top one is at 2inches and the left side is at 3 inches.

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Next is install the connector to the fuel pump and the little blue grommet at the bottom of the pump. This is so the pump can be installed in the canister.
Next is placing the clamp to hold the pump. because of the mod we do to the pump the pump will be resting on the left hand side of the fuel canister. you will measure 3.5 inches and use the left hand top and side measurements and go out 3.5 inches and make the slots for the clamp. i only used one because the fuel line pushing on the pump and the clamp holds it really well there. i shook it pulled on it and pushed on it from where the pick up is and it does not move there. if you prefer to use 2 go ahead.





pics of the canister with the clamp on.




next is the hole for the fuel line to come through. this pic is with a walbro installed, but because of the orientation of the DW300 i have to modify the area where the fuel line goes into


this is how much i modified. it looks like alot because i had to modify my old walbro set-up so this hole is larger than what has to be.


now after i modified that i cut my barb on my -8an to 3/8" barbed fitting. it makes it slightly shorter so the line can bend or you can use a 45 degree fitting if your using a -6AN bulkhead fitting.
i connected the fitting to the line and then to the bulkhead fitting.

Feed the pump wires through the little hole that they normally go through on the canister and get ready to install the top canister portion.

Put a clamp on the fuel line that goes to the pump and oriented it so you can access the clamp from the 13/16" return line hole. closed the canister and it helped push the line on. grab a 9/32" bit or a socket and use a ratchet screwdriver to tighten the clamp down.
here is a pic of the pump installed with the clamp tightened and the return line in the canister.



now install the pins to the connector. then install the blue piece that hold the pins in place. install the little grommet that the wires feed through and look over it to make sure it is good to go.
the finished product!



now go install it and see how the car performs now!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
what a pain, but i hope this helps people out and get cars running the DW300 pumps out here!
 

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Hey GreaseMonkey,

Definitely appreciate you taking the time to do a write up like this and also for your patronage and support of our products.

Can't wait for the results and your first impressions!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
your most welcome! I have always used deatsch werks injectors on my car and i bought my walbro fuel pumps from you as well. This is one product i want to test out and i know will perform to alot of peoples standards.
 

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Not saying it wont work, but you should not have put so many if any at all holes in the canister. You should have rerouted the returnline right into the canister, and maybe put one hole at the top to allow it to overflow back into the main tank.

What happens at an 1/8 tank? There wont be any fuel entering the canister from the regular tank (its too low) and any fuel left in the canister will just come out the holes, or at worst will just sit near the pump and get super hot. The returnline is the best bet for managing the heat IMO.
 

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great write up but if the canister has to be cut up Bosch044 in tank is the way to go..


awesome write up tho
 

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great writeup but it seems like alot of work... Isnt walbro coming out with their own 300 series pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not saying it wont work, but you should not have put so many if any at all holes in the canister. You should have rerouted the returnline right into the canister, and maybe put one hole at the top to allow it to overflow back into the main tank.

What happens at an 1/8 tank? There wont be any fuel entering the canister from the regular tank (its too low) and any fuel left in the canister will just come out the holes, or at worst will just sit near the pump and get super hot. The returnline is the best bet for managing the heat IMO.
the holes i put in there was for when the tank has a decent amount of fuel and whether accelerating or decelerating the fuel can flow through the canister. sure i put a few extra holes, but its a experiment and if people want to put less that is ok with them.
The return line opening is directed to hit the fuel pump so when the pump is running it has fuel splashing on it at all times. that is what that 3/8" black line is on the right hand side of the canister going it to it. that is my return line. i put a decent hole directly at the bottom and bottom front to flow to the pick up sock. while the other holes wont have fuel coming out of them unless the tank has more fuel in it.
I will post up any concerns when i drive the car around town with any issues at certain fuel levels. this is a new pump and set-up so i will update as things progress
 

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Discussion Starter #12
SonnySrt-4 i didn't really cut up anything other than drilling hole in the canister for the fuel. all i needed part wise was the pump. everything else i had available since i did a bottle neck mod and did my own custom fuel return set-up. so i paid 169$ and like 10$ for a clamp, 1 foot of hose and some epoxy.
i know the bosh's you have to literally cut the canister open, buy the sock pick up, buy the fittings for the outlet and the pump. that is a extra 50-100$ easy not including clamps and other stuff like terminal lugs.

i wanted to try something different and try to make it as drop in friendly as possible, but i say not everyone has to follow my how-to verbatim, but use it as a tool to get the results they want.

turbo-lag it took alot of work for me, but it should be easy for the next person to try it out now they have something to go off of. and im not sure if they are or not, but i wanted to try this new pump out.
 

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SonnySrt-4 i didn't really cut up anything other than drilling hole in the canister for the fuel. all i needed part wise was the pump. everything else i had available since i did a bottle neck mod and did my own custom fuel return set-up. so i paid 169$ and like 10$ for a clamp, 1 foot of hose and some epoxy.
i know the bosh's you have to literally cut the canister open, buy the sock pick up, buy the fittings for the outlet and the pump. that is a extra 50-100$ easy not including clamps and other stuff like terminal lugs.

i wanted to try something different and try to make it as drop in friendly as possible, but i say not everyone has to follow my how-to verbatim, but use it as a tool to get the results they want.

turbo-lag it took alot of work for me, but it should be easy for the next person to try it out now they have something to go off of. and im not sure if they are or not, but i wanted to try this new pump out.
U should of bought the walbro 400 and tried that out :p
 

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Discussion Starter #15
update, drove the car around with the low fuel light and had no issues with starvation or pressure drop.
the fuel pressure stay's steady and does not fluctuate compared to my single 255.

im loving it!:thumbsup:
 

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Nice write up nonetheless... Glad someone finally used it.


i didnt have nay results when i was looking for its performance on our car when it first came out so i just went ahead with the 044 intank setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Deatsch werks no problem! it has been running like a champ and is no louder than a 255 priming. hopefully you can get a decent market out there with these pumps for the SRT-4.

crazy1, that is understandable. i saw the 044,but wanted to try something different and i saw little results/evidence to see how it performs on our cars so i said what the hell! i hope to track it and see how it works under higher demand.
 

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i was planning on going with the 44 but how does this pump compare?
i'm running out of fuel @25 psi maxing out a single 255 with e85
 

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Grease monkey good job and write up though... If others r curious to try I'm
Sure this will make it much easier for them.


Ansare you will need a bigger pump for sure especially using e85 and seeing u have a 5557. You should talk to SonnySRT
 
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