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The car deff runs better without the pulsing. Timing went up and KR went down.
 

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Unplug the upper connector on the pump and splice it into the lower power wire.
 

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also what kit do you have not to bash or anything since they mostly use the same pump
 

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Instead of the pump pulsing it has a steady spray. It bypasses the pumps pressure regulating switch.
I have a DO kit with the progressive controller.
 

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so what are the side effects GOOD & BAD of doing this?

If you have a 100psi pump would you always get the pumps max output, or can you still adjust the pump's pressure without the use of a progressive controller?

I can currently hold HOM w/S2 100% of the time without this mod and without a progressive controller. But I do feel a slight pulsing in the performance of the car when using it... I assume this mod will make it smoother.

My situation requires the pump to be set at a lower pressure than it's rated for to prevent bogging...
 

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We don't really recommend doing that with the wires. There is a simple way to change the pumps pressure switch. One is to get a new switch from shurflo or email us for a custom switch which is around 200psi vs 150psi the M5 and M3 Booth spray at above 150psi in our system.

This way you keep your pumps warrenty. :readclose
 

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bnice01 said:
But will this kill the life of the pump?

There are many reasons why you should do that and just as many why you should not. Regardless of what brand kit you have, if it has a shurflo pump you can by pass it. Here is the good and bad....

If you have a boost switch based kit and run a M1,2,3,4,5 nozzle you will damage your pump eventually. For example, with a M3 you will hit over 320 psi. The silver pump that most vendors use is rated at 4.5 amps, at 320 psi you will burn the pump out in no time. Even our pump that is rated at 10 AMPS will have a dramatically shorten life at 320 psi.

Variable Controllers. If you have a variable controller at low dutycycle you would have no problem, but at high dutycycle you would have the same issue as above. The vari-cool units can easily avoid this because we are the only controller that offers the ability to change the duty cycle with the software.

Our commander kits will ship with a bypassed switch, however the controllers will be configured for the injector they are using (the user can change it later). For instance, if they have a M3, we will limit the duty cycle to 55% which will be over 170 PSI. We recommend that the users get a clog nozzle detector because with the switch bypassed, if you get a clog you could have an issue. Our commander can shut the system off if there is a clog (actually, it doesn't today, but within the next few days we will have that programmed).

Hope that clears it up.
 

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When mine was pulsing I did some research and found all you had to do was crank down the pressure switch on top of the pump. Its a very small allen head screw. I did that and my pulsing went away also.
 

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Bflaker said:
When mine was pulsing I did some research and found all you had to do was crank down the pressure switch on top of the pump. Its a very small allen head screw. I did that and my pulsing went away also.
yes, but now your atomization and flow is much less. Dont get me wrong, that may work great in your application, but in some cases perhaps not.
 

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When I said cranked down, I ment I screwd the screw in further which is supposed to increase the pressure cut off point. That would actually increase atomization and flow. Sorry for the confusion.
 

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I'm not sure what some people are basing there pump pressure at but the pumps have a interenal thermal switch with when it hits 250 degrees will shut the pump off to prevent it from burning up. It will not run until the temp is back down.

As far as pressure goes even a bypass pump, (pump with no pressure switch at all will never see 300psi even with a M1 nozzle. We have this set and have bench tested all nozzle sizes on verus pumps with snubbed pressure gauges for accurate readings. If you use a normal pressure gauge with no snubber the thing will just bang off 200psi even if the nozzle is only making 160.


Heres what you'll typicaly see as far as PSI goes this is with a 150psi switch or bypassed completly there is less than 15psi difference between the 2. Anyone who goes to the SRT-4 nationals will be able to see this for themselves at our both using our pump vs other vendors and see the real psi output. So you can see were fact and fiction really meet there will no doubt any anyones minds once they see the pumps in action side by side.

TESTING WE HAVE DONE:

This is a standard pump with the screw set all the way down. This is what it produces on our kits with 14.5 volts which is about what most cars put out. This test is alot more accurate than our prior one since we only ran the pump at 12 volts.

Conducted with a Valley Instrument Grade A Glycerin Filled Gauge with a 0.008" Dia. Orifice brass pressure snubber to give complete accuarcy for the testing.

M2 nozzle with 1/8 ID hose 180psi
M3 nozzle with 1/8 ID hose 160psi
M5 nozzle with 1/8 ID hose 145psi
M10 nozzle with 1/8 ID hose 135
M14 nozzle with 1/8 ID hose 105psi
Open hose 1/8 ID 40psi.

This is on a bypass modle meaning no pressure switch at all 150psi switch pump with the screw set a few turns down give the same results.

M2 nozzle with 1/8 ID hose 195psi
M3 nozzle with 1/8 ID hose 180psi
M5 nozzle with 1/8 ID hose 160psi
M10 nozzle with 1/8 ID hose 145psi
M14 nozzle with 1/8 ID hose 115psi
Open hose 1/8 ID 40psi.

Even if you use a 0.004" Dia. Orifice pressure snubber on the end instead of a nozzle (which don't put your hand in front of because it will cut you like a knife) found that out the hard way the pressure is still only around 245psi but the pump is drawing almost 12amps shurflo and getting warm pretty fast.

All flow test were done for 10 minutes on the pumps anyone with any test that show any difference with the proper test equipment please feel free to post it.

Bottom line is bypassing the pressure switch is not recommened due to the warranty on the pump. But will it hurt a intermediate duty pump running under 200psi not that we can tell. I have run a pump for almost 5 hours with a M5 nozzle and it never reached it's 250 degree shut off point. Under hood application might differ so be aware of that.

The only physical difference between switches in the pumps is a stiffer spring, That's it. Larger pumps use a different internal cam the smaller sized pumps have the same one. These pumps are pretty rugged and can take alot of abuse.
 

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Cause my pump failed yesterday. It was either running pure meth or running it wide open like that for 7+ months. Meth was in the motor when I took it apart and it would not suck anything threw the inlet portion. I just order another 60 psi pump and bought a 100 psi pressure switch. The valves in the 8000 series pump could not do pure meth but 50/50 would be ok.
 

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Everyone should keep in mind that even with a thermal pressure switch shutting the pump off, the pump is drawing far more amps than it was designed to. Overtime that will wear out the pump faster. Regardless of what anyone wants you to believe, more amps=more heat=morewear=shorter life.

Also, Im sure most of us would not want the pump to shut off and not turn on for a few minutes while it cools down.
 

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bnice01 said:
Cause my pump failed yesterday. It was either running pure meth or running it wide open like that for 7+ months. Meth was in the motor when I took it apart and it would not suck anything threw the inlet portion. I just order another 60 psi pump and bought a 100 psi pressure switch. The valves in the 8000 series pump could not do pure meth but 50/50 would be ok.
If you want to run 100% meth all the time your pump needs the following. The seals can strech with 100% methanol over time. You must have a pump with buna-n valves and the Geolast diaphragm they are 100% resistant to methanol. Viton valve are not.

This is strait from shurflo feel free to contact them yourself to verify, DO's only give the facts.

Thank you for your e-mail and interest on SHURflo products.

Attached you will find a couple data sheets for pumps that you can use with Methanol.
(See attached file: pds-8000-643-210.pdf)(See attached file:
pds-8000-643-236.pdf)(See attached file: 8000-633-236.pdf)

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.

Sincerely,

Carmen Lopez
Sr. Inside Sales Rep.
5900 Katella Ave.
Cypress, CA 90630
Tel: 800-854-3218
Direct: 562-797-6792
Fax: 562-795-7564

Here's what's inside other pumps.
Added specs of new pump.
[email protected] to me
More options 10:52 am (7 hours ago)

Unfortunately, we do not have the data sheet for model # 8030-811-239, but
the specs are:

12 VDC, 10 Amps Max., 150 PSI Max, Viton valves, Nylon body, Santoprene
Diaph. This pump can be use with some chemicals.
 
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