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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fuck, I took off my injen intake, looked at turbine blades, they are mint. looked at mopar BOV, fucking thing was 1-2mm away from even being sealed. Tightened the 3rd bolt, 4-5 full turns, no more drill noise. I boost friggin 2 more PSI in every gear now... time to give that STI another shot, was the Mopar BOV causing a boost leak? If so that STI is in for an ass kicking now that its fixed and Stage 1 is on. (last time I stayed even with him)
 

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Yes that awful whine you heard was a boost leak caused by the plate not sealing properly with your compressor housing.

The Mopar BOV is crap, it always has been, like hundreds of others have said it is nothing but a noise maker and it was not designed to improve the current design of the stock surge valve, only make it louder and more pronounced.

After hearing some of the mopar BOV's at the local meet a few weeks ago i actually considered swapping back to my mopar BOV. Blow off much easier, its quieter but its not as obnoxious as my RFL (which wont blow off at lower rpm/boost)
 

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I don't understand why people are having so much trouble with their Mopar BOV plates. Seriously, how hard is it to install? I put mine in in under thirty minutes, and haven't had to touch it once since the install. No leaks, no rattles, nothing.
 

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The Mopar BOV diverter plate is not crap, the problem is that there is no criteria on whom can purchase and install it. If people would properly install it, there wouldn't be problems with leaking.

As for performance gain, it was never touted as a performance gain, it's a noisemaker. An unintended side benefit seems to be that it a good measure of mechanical ability.

Anyone who honestly believes that any other BOV is going to outperform the OEM blow-off valve has been reading too much Super Street. Installed properly, it cannot be a boost leak. It is also impossible for it to leak boost when the misguided cretins install boost controllers.

Until you install a manifold/turbo that doesn't use the OEM configuration, an HKS/Greddy/whatever other noisemaker you are buying is not going to work better than the OEM unit. The only reason it works better with an AGP/Psi-Fi/HP turbo kit is that the OEM unit is eliminated when you swap manifolds....

Remember, just because you are incapable of installing something, does not mean that the part is crap. It just means you don't know what the hell you are doing.

David
 

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Dale Seeley said:
The Mopar BOV diverter plate is not crap, the problem is that there is no criteria on whom can purchase and install it. If people would properly install it, there wouldn't be problems with leaking.

As for performance gain, it was never touted as a performance gain, it's a noisemaker. An unintended side benefit seems to be that it a good measure of mechanical ability.

Anyone who honestly believes that any other BOV is going to outperform the OEM blow-off valve has been reading too much Super Street. Installed properly, it cannot be a boost leak. It is also impossible for it to leak boost when the misguided cretins install boost controllers.

Until you install a manifold/turbo that doesn't use the OEM configuration, an HKS/Greddy/whatever other noisemaker you are buying is not going to work better than the OEM unit. The only reason it works better with an AGP/Psi-Fi/HP turbo kit is that the OEM unit is eliminated when you swap manifolds....

Remember, just because you are incapable of installing something, does not mean that the part is crap. It just means you don't know what the hell you are doing.

David

Mork calling Mopar nut swinger Mork calling Mopar nut swinger come in nut swinger :cow: The only problem I have is spring tension on that unit. Other than that it works :bandit:
 

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Rydiak said:
I don't understand why people are having so much trouble with their Mopar BOV plates. Seriously, how hard is it to install? I put mine in in under thirty minutes, and haven't had to touch it once since the install. No leaks, no rattles, nothing.

my install was 40 minutes because i dropped one of the original short bolts down into the tranny area and had to pull out the jack to find it. (just didnt want a bolt floating around in the engine bay somewhere)

havent had a problem and its been on for 1300 of my 1450 miles
 

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Ant @ Psi-Fi said:
Mork calling Mopar nut swinger Mork calling Mopar nut swinger come in nut swinger :cow: The only problem I have is spring tension on that unit. Other than that it works :bandit:

Nutswinger receiving message.... message doesn't make sense.... replying...

There is very little spring tension, just enough to keep the unit closed at startup, it shouldn't bother you... I know you're a big enough guy to squeeze that 4 pounds down during install.... :lol:

I know you don't think the spring has anything to do with operation (other than ensuring placement) under boost...

The problem you should have with it is that it doesn't retrofit to your manifold and you're stuck using mechanical BOV's....

These threads are great, it's like somebody saying that an airfilter doesn't work because they never installed it.... I can't imagine the phone calls you get from people installing the turbo kit for the first time. "nothin lines up" "Clock the turbo correctly"... :rofl: That stuff would drive me nuts...

Dale
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I still made good power with it all sorts of fucked up, im making so much more power now... might just be becaus I fixed it 1 day after getting stage 1 on...

anyways, it has no way to leak if it is installed RIGHT. Yeah sure, you can fuck up using a tissue if used wrong, doesnt mean the tissue cant work right with no problems.
 

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Rydiak said:
I don't understand why people are having so much trouble with their Mopar BOV plates. Seriously, how hard is it to install? I put mine in in under thirty minutes, and haven't had to touch it once since the install. No leaks, no rattles, nothing.
How the fuck is everyone saying they put the mopar bov on in 30 minutes! it took me all fucking day to put that third bolt on :stab:. Though if had taken off the oil line in front of it, I think it would have taken much less time.( did'nt say anything about taking off oil line in directions) :flame: :flame: :stab:

for post: I dont know how its possible to fuck up installing this, its pretty self explanitory, I just put it on and tightend the fuck out of it(no tourque wrench) and its fine. Same amount of boost as before.
 

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19, I think a lot of it might be tied to how much of your life has been spent wrenching on hard to reach items. Me, I've spent 20 years working on aircraft, where the mechanics hands having access are NOT a design criteria, the ones I worked on anyway.

Over time, you develop a hundred tiny, almost unconcious, tricks for such work. Some folks never do get really good, some get really good fairly quick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
glhs837 said:
19, I think a lot of it might be tied to how much of your life has been spent wrenching on hard to reach items. Me, I've spent 20 years working on aircraft, where the mechanics hands having access are NOT a design criteria, the ones I worked on anyway.

Over time, you develop a hundred tiny, almost unconcious, tricks for such work. Some folks never do get really good, some get really good fairly quick.
Im the one that never get it =(
 

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I have the forge unit...

It is a top rate product and its plenty loud. I have had alot of people complement me on my BOV and ask "what type of bov is that?".
 

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Granted I AM NOT USING IT IN THE DESIGNED MANNER in the sense that I bypass the solenoid and run a manifold vacuume source directly to the BOV/BPV. Now for this situation there isn't enough spring tension for a hogh boost application. The valve does open. Why some might ask. Well that is due to the spring tension is unable to compensate for the pressure differentiation on either side of the diaphram. As a result the greater pressure at the compressor wins and blows open the BOV/BPV. Like I said I AM NOT using it in the designed manner. Is there a fix for this situation? Sure shim it or slightly stretch the spring for more tension.




Dale Seeley said:
Nutswinger receiving message.... message doesn't make sense.... replying...

There is very little spring tension, just enough to keep the unit closed at startup, it shouldn't bother you... I know you're a big enough guy to squeeze that 4 pounds down during install.... :lol:

I know you don't think the spring has anything to do with operation (other than ensuring placement) under boost...

The problem you should have with it is that it doesn't retrofit to your manifold and you're stuck using mechanical BOV's....

These threads are great, it's like somebody saying that an airfilter doesn't work because they never installed it.... I can't imagine the phone calls you get from people installing the turbo kit for the first time. "nothin lines up" "Clock the turbo correctly"... :rofl: That stuff would drive me nuts...

Dale
 
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