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DC Sports rear strut bar install...

2K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  robertk 
#1 ·
Well, I began doing this over lunch. I would have done the front bar first - if the freakin place hadnt sent me a front bar for a 99 Eclipse instead :tongue:

I need to bitch - Those clips holding the trunkliner is place are steaming piles of shit! :flame: 3 out of 4 broke when using a clip puller to take them out. 2 are still stuck in the hole, I need to use pliers or something to pull them out...I need to head to autozone and see if I can find comparable clips.

Also, the strutbar seems close to the center belt spool or whatever it is that sticks below the rear deck.

It also looks like I will have to cut or remove the sound deadening alltogether.

Also, the top bolts dont seem very long. I am nervous that after I get the bar on, there will be very little thread holding them on...any ideas?

Last concern, trimming those panels. I will to find a nice clean way of doing it.

If someone has a pic of their install, I would greatly appreciate it. I will post pic tonite or tomorrow of my completed install...

Thanks!

KC
 
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#6 ·
Do you need a torque wrench to do this? Or can you jt hand tighten it? Someone said you need to tighten it with a torque wrench to 25 footpounds...
 
#11 ·
blacksheep said:
This blows. I torqud down to 45 ft/lb per instructions and a stud and bolt broke off...I cannot believe this! See the other post I just made...

The instructions are total crap!
Welcome to the "busted, over torqued bolt club" I've read about four posts, including my own, on the same issue. Modern Performance, where I purchased, should change the torque instructions. There obviously WRONG.
 
#13 ·
I am going to call DC Sports and give them an earful. This is total crap...I will complain to the better business just on principle. I expected better from a big manufacturer such as them! :(

Do I need to compress spring and take strut off as well? This blows....
 
#16 ·
I said 25 footpounds for a reason man...

In the service manual it says 25 footpounds for those bolts.
 
#18 ·
I just installed both bars two days ago and noticed a big difference in handling. It goes through corners much flatter and even rides better. Less bounce over the same bumps in the same road that I go across every day. I wasn't expecting the improved ride. I definitely like them.
 
#19 ·
En-Glaived: OK, lemme ask...I downloaded the service manual from dodge-srt4.com and am looking thru it. According to what it says for the rear strut assembly to torque the strut tower attaching nuts - 34 N-m (300 inch lbs) ! Where is everyone getting the 25 ft-lbs figure from?
 
#20 ·
128fan said:
I just installed both bars two days ago and noticed a big difference in handling. It goes through corners much flatter and even rides better. Less bounce over the same bumps in the same road that I go across every day. I wasn't expecting the improved ride. I definitely like them.
I love the DC strut bars. For me it made the car feel tighter, more solid, it was subtle. And they look good. Didn't improve the handling too much. The Hotchkiss swar bars I installed 2 months later made a world of difference. It definitely improved handling, cornering faster, and keeping the car flat with almost no roll, even if I tried! The DC strut bar/Hotchkiss sway bar combination are great mods for improved handling over stock setup. :clap:
 
#21 ·
blacksheep said:
En-Glaived: OK, lemme ask...I downloaded the service manual from dodge-srt4.com and am looking thru it. According to what it says for the rear strut assembly to torque the strut tower attaching nuts - 34 N-m (300 inch lbs) ! Where is everyone getting the 25 ft-lbs figure from?

Ok Math Class....

12" per foot.

there for (300/12)/lbs = ft/lbs

In other laymen terms, take 300 divide by 12 and that equals Foot then since both are by lbs that the In/lbs to Ft/Lbs conversion.

Ok recess.....
 
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