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I just bought my 04 srt4 88k miles a week ago and while trying to clean the cobwebs out i ran into a couple discrepancies. First problem I have is that I get like 80-100 miles to a tank around town then like 220 Highway, which seems odd. I have read several posts on here but didn't really get a clear answer as to why. What I was told when I bought it is that it has Seibens 1000cc injectors in it, a 93 performance tune and a punched cat. I know the injectors are for sure seibens, (idr how to spell it off hand) but unsure of the size of them don't know whether or not it has the 93 tune or not and the cat is for sure punched. He claimed 264whp and 304 tq which I also don't know whether hp and tq numbers matter in my case or if it's even true. And, every 30 miles or so the CEL comes on for 02 sensor. My question is, would this cause my terrible city mileage. And it doesn't matter if I'm putting around or hard in the boost around town it's still around the same mileage, 80-100 to the tank Now my second cause for concern is a shudder mainly when I'm in 4th gear under light acceleration no acceleration and deceleration. Once I slow down enough it goes away .Braking in and of itself doesn't change the shudder, but it does go away when I slow down below 30 or so. I have no issue at all with gears or the clutch, no grinding, no pops, all gears shift flawlessly, clutch feels amazing, but at around 30-45 mph or when I shift into 4th gear just cruisin' around I get it and I can only describe it as feeling like I'm on a rough road, fresh grated road or maybe like a flat tire, All my tire pressures are an equal 34 btw and the shudder is through the entire car, but it feels like it originates from the back. Now when I'm hard in the boost I don't notice a vibration/shudder at all through any of the gears. I got it up to 120 today and smooth all the way up and back down. Any help on these would be much appreciated. I don't want to go on a wild goose chase. I don't know where to start and this is the 1st srt4 I have ever owned or even ridden in for that matter. Thanks.
 

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When your gauge shows the fuel is low and you go fill up, how many gallons are going in?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
am i reading 30mph in 4th gear right?

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When I'm just cruisin casually around flat areas in my city, I'll shift into 4th at 30-35 or so. So to answer your question, yes. However I tested it today and the shudder is also there in 3rd as well at 30-45 mph, then goes away. So it seems like it is speed dependent. However In second at 30 mph I'm in the boost and when I'm in the boost, I don't notice it at all.
 

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When I'm just cruisin casually around flat areas in my city, I'll shift into 4th at 30-35 or so. So to answer your question, yes. However I tested it today and the shudder is also there in 3rd as well at 30-45 mph, then goes away. So it seems like it is speed dependent. However In second at 30 mph I'm in the boost and when I'm in the boost, I don't notice it at all.
I would check the cv joints, and associated components, if it does it in all gears then its got to be something in the driveline.

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Welcome,

The cars didnt have great gas mileage stock so adding bigger injectors and power isnt helping that. It still seems low but your highway isnt really that far off. It runs at like 2700 in 5th at 70mph.

First thing I would suggest is buying yourself a handheld DSP for tuning, find a quality tuner, send your tune file in and have them check it out. You also need to figure out exactly what your mods are, especially fuel pump. If you have those injectors then its probably E85 capable or has had E85 at one time. So maybe the tune needs work and you can have it tuned down to 91 which will help you on gas mileage. If you can still contact the seller I would double check w them and ask who tuned it, what other mods it has, what they think the issue could be.

As far as your shudder goes - it could be drivetrain related or tune related. I had a major issue w a sticky brake caliper that I couldnt figure out, it only was noticeable on very smooth roads. Everything pointed to a bad axle. So a few possibilities there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Also, congrats on getting a great color and low mileage car
I appreciate it a lot. the seller doesn't know much, clearly. He told me the fog lights didn't work and they work fine, he obviously didn't know the headlight switch is multi function and I did some research and I think he bought it from auction, put a few dollars in it, passed the enhanced inspection to get an r title, (radiator support got replaced cause of a small accident) then sold it to me. I traced the vin number a few different ways. The shudder was a wheel bearing but now i got a totally different new problem. Once my car gets hot @ 2300 rpms it breaks up like its 2 step and holds there, no matter the gear, no codes are being thrown for it. I think cause I have an sxt hood there isn't enough air getting to the coil pack to keep it cool and that might be what's doing it. After i let it cool down it's fine and its fine till its at full operating temp, then it's doing that. I'm ordering msd coil, wires, and ngk iridium plugs to see if that's for sure the problem. If not, then i need to grab a stock srt4 hood or some cf hood that has the proper scoop to keep the engine bay cool properly. Idk what else it could be cause it didn't do that until recently, however I haven't drove the car much. I was racing around a little bit the first time this happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Welcome,

The cars didnt have great gas mileage stock so adding bigger injectors and power isnt helping that. It still seems low but your highway isnt really that far off. It runs at like 2700 in 5th at 70mph.

First thing I would suggest is buying yourself a handheld DSP for tuning, find a quality tuner, send your tune file in and have them check it out. You also need to figure out exactly what your mods are, especially fuel pump. If you have those injectors then its probably E85 capable or has had E85 at one time. So maybe the tune needs work and you can have it tuned down to 91 which will help you on gas mileage. If you can still contact the seller I would double check w them and ask who tuned it, what other mods it has, what they think the issue could be.

As far as your shudder goes - it could be drivetrain related or tune related. I had a major issue w a sticky brake caliper that I couldnt figure out, it only was noticeable on very smooth roads. Everything pointed to a bad axle. So a few possibilities there.
Honestly i've been looking around for a good srt4 tuner but haven't found anything near me. the 2 well known tuners near me are TPG tuning and Godspeed tuning. TPG isnt too familiar with srt4s and neither is godspeed. Godspeed does muscle cars predominantly and TPG specializes in Subarus. I live in western pa
 

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Honestly i've been looking around for a good srt4 tuner but haven't found anything near me. the 2 well known tuners near me are TPG tuning and Godspeed tuning. TPG isnt too familiar with srt4s and neither is godspeed. Godspeed does muscle cars predominantly and TPG specializes in Subarus. I live in western pa
Needless Torque Calibrations (Duster on here) https://www.needlesstorque.com/ You do not need a dyno shop to have someone check your tune and smooth it out. But you will need a handheld tuner.

As far as your issue - research and youll find the answer. Just type in 2200 rpm and youll see. Start w the cam sensor and magnet, its best to buy Mopar on that one.
 

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if you can return the MSD coil pack, i would suggest it. This one, Granatelli Ignition Coil Pack, 96.5-05 Neon / 01-10 PT Cruiser , has proven to be a more reliable option.

I HIGHLY HIGHLY doubt the hood has anything to do with the issue you're experiencing.
^^ this.. msd coils are crap. ive owned a neon in one form or another since 1997, Trust us when we say they don't work.

my car loves the ngk or champion plugs. it doesnt like any special iridium or other type, i get shudders and hesitation.



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Discussion Starter #14
So I changed my cps and it cured my po340 code that i didnt even know i had. Now for whatever reason, my car is significantly slower, the boost sounds totally different and I lost power. I'm not sure how the cp would affect that and I looked to see if i could see any leaks around the lines near the cps from when i moved them while changing the cps and everything looks good. So now I'm stumped on that. The car is hitting the right psi in each gear but its a lot louder spooling up now. Any ideas. I'm gonna try to figure it out. I'm still gonna change the plugs wires and coil just to do it and it currently has granatelli coil and wires with ngk plugs. I didnt order the msd yet so ill order granatelli. thanks for that btw.

As far as your issue - research and youll find the answer. Just type in 2200 rpm and youll see. Start w the cam sensor and magnet, its best to buy Mopar on that one.
[/QUOTE]
 

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you need to do a boost leak test.
 

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So I changed my cps and it cured my po340 code that i didnt even know i had. Now for whatever reason, my car is significantly slower, the boost sounds totally different and I lost power. I'm not sure how the cp would affect that and I looked to see if i could see any leaks around the lines near the cps from when i moved them while changing the cps and everything looks good. So now I'm stumped on that. The car is hitting the right psi in each gear but its a lot louder spooling up now. Any ideas. I'm gonna try to figure it out. I'm still gonna change the plugs wires and coil just to do it and it currently has granatelli coil and wires with ngk plugs. I didnt order the msd yet so ill order granatelli. thanks for that btw.

As far as your issue - research and youll find the answer. Just type in 2200 rpm and youll see. Start w the cam sensor and magnet, its best to buy Mopar on that one.
[/QUOTE]Did you get the coupler back on the turbo correctly? it's kinda hard to see sometimes..

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