[exv6420]

Kind of new to turbos and i am ready to start buying some stuff for my SRT-4(even though i dont have it yet). 1 The first thing i need to get is the type 1- turbo timer from HKS. Its even got 0-400meter time measurement, RPM warning and some other cool stuff. The turbo timer i get. Little confused about the VBC Universal Boost Controller Kit. Do I need the single or dual port actuator wastegates? and do I need the one for internal or external wastegate systems? If someone could explain that to me that would be great. 2 Moving on= Lowering springs-Eibach has theirs on sale already but dont know if 1.5 inch is going to be enough drop to get rid of all the wheel gap. Progress Springs drops it 1.8 but i know nothing about their quality. Anyone have a neon with either eibach or progress springs on it? Do you like the ride? height?
3 Next got to order the Titanium colored bulbs (which i believe takes away the crosseye, or does it?) and the clear corner lenses. PLEASE HELP so i can spend the extra money i have now before i blow it all on spring break or beer :lol: :shock:

 

[meddle]

Kind of new to turbos and i am ready to start buying some stuff for my SRT-4(even though i dont have it yet). 1 The first thing i need to get is the type 1- turbo timer from HKS. Its even got 0-400meter time measurement, RPM warning and some other cool stuff. The turbo timer i get. Little confused about the VBC Universal Boost Controller Kit. Do I need the single or dual port actuator wastegates? and do I need the one for internal or external wastegate systems? If someone could explain that to me that would be great. 2 Moving on= Lowering springs-Eibach has theirs on sale already but dont know if 1.5 inch is going to be enough drop to get rid of all the wheel gap. Progress Springs drops it 1.8 but i know nothing about their quality. Anyone have a neon with either eibach or progress springs on it? Do you like the ride? height?
3 Next got to order the Titanium colored bulbs (which i believe takes away the crosseye, or does it?) and the clear corner lenses. PLEASE HELP so i can spend the extra money i have now before i blow it all on spring break or beer :lol: :shock:

Ive got a ton of stuff to learn if you are 'kinda new to turbos'

 

[Kyle]

There isn't much sense in putting a turbo timer on a factory boosted car. Just break in the car properly, then run synthetic oil. If you really want a turbo timer then go for it.

So far the only suspension upgrades I have seen are the exact same parts that go on the 2nd gen Neon, which is a bit short on suspension travel. So there is a good chance that a set of 1.5-1.8" lowering springs (especially given Eibach's track record with the Neon) will make your car ride like crap, handle worse than stock, and wear your struts out prematurely. If you are willing to live with that in order to reduce wheel gap go for it. If not let someone else be the guinea pig with cheap lowering springs and prove me wrong. If you have to get rid of the wheel gap and don't want to ruin the suspenion your only choice that I know of now are the KW coilovers that Modern Performance sells.

I think the reflectors in the headlight/turn signal are amber. Should be simple enough for someone who actually owns the car to check for you.

 

[Exhaust Depot]

There isn't much sense in putting a turbo timer on a factory boosted car. Just break in the car properly, then run synthetic oil. If you really want a turbo timer then go for it.

That is incorrect. The turbo timer is a good investment. The purpose of the turbo timer is to allow the bearings in the turbo to cool down to prevent choking. Take a look at your mothers frying pans. The black stuff under the pan is choking.

Choking is when the oil is taken to a temperature so high that it burns on the metal. So when you turn off your engine that you just finished racing the piss of, it requires some cool down.

I have the M/M right here and it says that for normal driving you dont need a cool down. For hard driving it requires a 3 min cool down. This is where your turbo timer comes in place. Close the doors, lock it up and "fogetabout it" (NY accent).

The most you need to pay for a turbo timer is 110. You dont need any fancy stuff that clocks your 1/4 mile etc. Its not practicle. Thre are some that read your RPM tack and sets the time frame for you. Depending on how long you stay over 3000 rpm, it sets your timer.

I will do a nice post on installing a turbo timer maybe tomorrow when IM dont installing mine today. I will give you guys the wires you need to splice into , in order to do it.



Oh, and as for hte coils, i dont think the regular neon coils will work. The srt4 has upgraded struts etc. Its not the same suspention. It might fit who knows, but i dont think it will be the right one:

Happy boosting!

Hector

 

[Grunge]

That info will be really helpful. When mine gets here, I'll be looking into a turbo timer. I'd rather prevent a problem before it happens because I know one time I'll forget and just turn off the car.

 

[drizze99]

There isn't much sense in putting a turbo timer on a factory boosted car. Just break in the car properly, then run synthetic oil. If you really want a turbo timer then go for it.

That is incorrect. The turbo timer is a good investment. The purpose of the turbo timer is to allow the bearings in the turbo to cool down to prevent choking. Take a look at your mothers frying pans. The black stuff under the pan is choking.

Choking is when the oil is taken to a temperature so high that it burns on the metal. So when you turn off your engine that you just finished racing the piss of, it requires some cool down.

I have the M/M right here and it says that for normal driving you dont need a cool down. For hard driving it requires a 3 min cool down. This is where your turbo timer comes in place. Close the doors, lock it up and "fogetabout it" (NY accent).

The most you need to pay for a turbo timer is 110. You dont need any fancy stuff that clocks your 1/4 mile etc. Its not practicle. Thre are some that read your RPM tack and sets the time frame for you. Depending on how long you stay over 3000 rpm, it sets your timer.

I will do a nice post on installing a turbo timer maybe tomorrow when IM dont installing mine today. I will give you guys the wires you need to splice into , in order to do it.



Oh, and as for hte coils, i dont think the regular neon coils will work. The srt4 has upgraded struts etc. Its not the same suspention. It might fit who knows, but i dont think it will be the right one:

Happy boosting!

Hector

Hector, do they have a timer out that fits right into the factory wiring or are you splicing?

 

[Grunge]

I will give you guys the wires you need to splice into , in order to do it.

It sounds like we'll have to splice, but I'm sure either way won't be difficult. What exactly voids the warranty? Is that just things that modify the engine, or would cutting wires be included?

 

[drizze99]

I will give you guys the wires you need to splice into , in order to do it.

It sounds like we'll have to splice, but I'm sure either way won't be difficult. What exactly voids the warranty? Is that just things that modify the engine, or would cutting wires be included?

OK, maybe I should read the entire post next time!!

 

[Kyle]

That is incorrect. The turbo timer is a good investment. The purpose of the turbo timer is to allow the bearings in the turbo to cool down to prevent choking. Take a look at your mothers frying pans. The black stuff under the pan is choking.

Choking is when the oil is taken to a temperature so high that it burns on the metal. So when you turn off your engine that you just finished racing the piss of, it requires some cool down.

I have the M/M right here and it says that for normal driving you dont need a cool down. For hard driving it requires a 3 min cool down. This is where your turbo timer comes in place. Close the doors, lock it up and "fogetabout it" (NY accent).

The most you need to pay for a turbo timer is 110. You dont need any fancy stuff that clocks your 1/4 mile etc. Its not practicle. Thre are some that read your RPM tack and sets the time frame for you. Depending on how long you stay over 3000 rpm, it sets your timer.

I will do a nice post on installing a turbo timer maybe tomorrow when IM dont installing mine today. I will give you guys the wires you need to splice into , in order to do it.

Oh, and as for hte coils, i dont think the regular neon coils will work. The srt4 has upgraded struts etc. Its not the same suspention. It might fit who knows, but i dont think it will be the right one:

Happy boosting!

Hector

I still see no need for a turbo timer. You should always drive gingerly for a minute or two before you shut a car off if you have been driving hard, regardless of whether or not your car has a turbo. If you refuse to let your car cool down then get a turbo timer, but I will never own one. Synthetic oil burns at a much higher temperature than regular oil which also reduces your chances of coking. (Ive never heard of a turbo "choking", unless blocking the oil passages can make it choke on oil. :wink: )

I thought the struts were different as well, but Modern Performance lists regular '00 and up Neon struts and springs for the SRT, and they have an SRT, so I am assuming they have done the checking to make sure they fit. If not they are going to have lots of angry people returning parts.

 

[el_jefe]

Watch out how much you lower it in the front, I scape the air dam all the time, and I am being careful :evil:

 

[hemidakota]

There isn't much sense in putting a turbo timer on a factory boosted car. Just break in the car properly, then run synthetic oil. If you really want a turbo timer then go for it.

That is incorrect. The turbo timer is a good investment. The purpose of the turbo timer is to allow the bearings in the turbo to cool down to prevent choking. Take a look at your mothers frying pans. The black stuff under the pan is choking.

Choking is when the oil is taken to a temperature so high that it burns on the metal. So when you turn off your engine that you just finished racing the piss of, it requires some cool down.

I have the M/M right here and it says that for normal driving you dont need a cool down. For hard driving it requires a 3 min cool down. This is where your turbo timer comes in place. Close the doors, lock it up and "fogetabout it" (NY accent).

The most you need to pay for a turbo timer is 110. You dont need any fancy stuff that clocks your 1/4 mile etc. Its not practicle. Thre are some that read your RPM tack and sets the time frame for you. Depending on how long you stay over 3000 rpm, it sets your timer.

I will do a nice post on installing a turbo timer maybe tomorrow when IM dont installing mine today. I will give you guys the wires you need to splice into , in order to do it.



Oh, and as for hte coils, i dont think the regular neon coils will work. The srt4 has upgraded struts etc. Its not the same suspention. It might fit who knows, but i dont think it will be the right one:

Happy boosting!Hector

You mean coaking. After a hard run, a turbo car needs the time to cool off the oil inside both the engine and turbo. If you want long life on your turbo and engine. buy one or just remember to give the engine the tiem to cool off after a hard run before shutting down the motor.

Another area to be concern with Synthetics, is to allow the engine when cold to circulate the oil before taking off.

 

[Exhaust Depot]

Hemidakota, I beat up my grade school spelling champ. I am the worlds worst speller.

Kyle, coaking/choking sp? lol ) Also occurs in the oil retun line. You will see heavy deposits on the oil retun line of vehicles that dont cool down. When you shut off your engine. The residual oil in the turbo bearings start to cook. When I get on the gas of my SRT-4 then pull over, I can actually see the turbine glowing. So imagine just shutting down the engine and not letting it cool.



I am working on producing a harness for the srt so you can hook it up to the turbo timer. Its a pain to splice into the harness because its above the steering wheel instead of below.

 

[3barboost]

Kyle, coaking/choking sp? lol ) Also occurs in the oil retun line. You will see heavy deposits on the oil retun line of vehicles that dont cool down. When you shut off your engine. The residual oil in the turbo bearings start to cook. When I get on the gas of my SRT-4 then pull over, I can actually see the turbine glowing. So imagine just shutting down the engine and not letting it cool.

Coaking? Hmm, I thought it was coking. Anyhow, coking is only an issue on non-watercooled bearing housings. Mopar turbos have had water-cooled bearings since 1984, and I have an '85 GLH to prove it. Aftermarket turbos almost never have water-cooled bearings, and few enough OEMs during the '80s. Synthetic oil was not available back then, so Chrysler put water in there from the get-go to avoid this issue. They are so good at it, I would hazard a guess that you really don't need synthetic other than to extend your time between changes. My GLH is gettin OLD (140,000 miles), and never has coked up.