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ok my friends, about a month ago i took my turbo, manifold, and downpipe off and heat wrapped it all thinking it would cool my srt down a little, but it didnt work that well (it looks nice though). anyways i read a forum the other day about buying a stant thermostat so i went and bought one. holy sh!t, there is no way you can pass a $10 part up that does this much of a difference. after installing the thermostat, im running a constant 180 degrees to 185 degrees. if your srt is bouncing at 200 degrees, maybe you should try this cheap ass thermostat. the parts number is 13788 and it cost me about 7 bucks. hope this works on your car as good as it did mine. later guys
 

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damn... 7 bucks it a lot... i got mine for 2.39... but it is a good mod :thumbsup: my car is running a lot cooler now.
 

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where can i get one??
 

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No joke, I'd love to get one. Only problem is getting one out here in Germany.
 

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Only works when moving, which these cars don't really need help with.

When stopped or in slow traffic (or in the lanes at the track), your car runs same as stock. You need a fan mod to really be effective.
 

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good mod.......starts the cooling before you top the 200 mark......

170-180 keeps you in the peak performance range.....
 

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I'm pretty sure I've seen threads where people state that they gain nothing by running the car at 160 or 180 instead of 200. In fact, I'm pretty sure even Steven Anderson said he was losing power if he ran cooler than the stock 195 or so.
 

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dmagro said:
I'm pretty sure I've seen threads where people state that they gain nothing by running the car at 160 or 180 instead of 200. In fact, I'm pretty sure even Steven Anderson said he was losing power if he ran cooler than the stock 195 or so.
yes the 160 put it too cold..... but someone who runs the 1/4 told me that when he allows his car to drop slightly below the 180 mark before each run... he consistantly gets better times......

the complaints came when some went to the too cold 160 this leaves your car in the shudder area.... not warm enough to work properly!
 

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potter said:
is it true that mopar designed the thermo to stay at 200 to get the fuel really hot before cumbustion?

Why would you want the fuel really hot before combustion????


Also, I think the reason people are not showing significant gains is because the PCM is programmed to see a certain temp. The only thing I can think of to keep the added cooling, is a voltage clamp for the temp sensor so that it never sees above the voltage which equals 200*.

Kris
 

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You don't want fuel hot, you want it cold. That is why if you look up under the car by the oil filter (that has a finned area to cool the oil) you will see a tiny radiator the cools the fuel line.
 

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You really dont want to run the car any cooler than 185.... new cars nowadays will run cars a little richer until the engine gets up to operating temps. My buddy set his engine bay on fire in his car because with the combination of a Adjustable fuel pressure regulator with it adjusted 2 lbs up, a 165 thermostat and a cold day outside... his car turned his manifolds cherry red during normal driving.. and well eventually some wire casing caught on fire.

If you are seeing 200 when you are driving you should check your radiator air foil.... and if it occurs when you are puttering around town... you should think about adjusting the on/off points for your electric fans. There are temperature probes that you can use to turn your fans on at a certain temperature... just food for thought.
 

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Holy crap, that cooler is for the fuel line? I never traced it back, but I assumed it was a P/S cooler. Isn't the fuel going to pick up 95% of its heat from sitting in the fuel rail on that hot manifold. Thats why several dealers sell conversions to a "return fuel line" system.
BTW, I also haven't noticed a corrolation between lower engine temps and my better runs on a consistant basis. Holds true on every other car I've taken to the track, though. But then, a lot of the numbers don't add up on this car, must have something to do with the computer controlling EVERYTHING! I'm still stock, so maybe it's time to take control!
 

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I thought that cooler was a power steering cooler as well - when I had the car up on my dad's lift (he's a mechanic) the lines sure looked they went to the P/S pump.

If I remember my auto shop properly, the fuel atomizes better at hotter temperatures (you don't want it to boil, vapor is bad, mmmmkay?). The better the fuel atomizes, the closer to perfect stochiometric ratio you can achieve - and the engine runs its best at that ratio. Again, it's been 15 years since I took these shop classes, but that's what I remember. I'll have to find my "Auto Math" and "Designing and building Racing Engines" books to verify.
 

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Would this be a good idea to get if you are doing an open track event? Something to sawp out the old one for the cooler one, then swap it back?

I'll be doing three 30 minute run groups.
 
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