[Michal Bogdanowicz]

Hi guys, First of all i recently replaced my clutch (act xtss kit). I replaced flywheel, clutch pressure plate, TOB, put new billet fork, used arc bolts, torqued everything to specs.
I also replaced clutch slave cylinder and bleed the whole air out. Only thing that i didnt replace was clutch master cylinder.

Before I had and issue (except clutch splipping at 3rd and above gear on wot)
that my clutch pedal wasn't returning smoothly when slowly releasing pedal. It was intermediate with some freezes (only occurred when slowly releasing pedal).
It wasn't spongy at all but not smooth neither, more like sticky at some points.

After the install of new components everything was totally fine-100%. But then next day I realized that I should adjust my pedal (was at highest position). And then it started.... As soon as I adjust it, the transmission started making rattling noise (it was there before clutch install but after i replaced everything it disappeared).
It goes away when i press the pedal in.

I got very small leak from masxter cylinder near pedal - very small.

In my opinion its master cylinder leaking and then because of it it's not putting enough pressure on fork and TOB and its probably also letting some air get into system via seal.
What you think about it?
My clutch pedal after bleeding was not sticking but now it is doing this again.

Like I said that loud rattle started after i adjusted pedal(it goes away when i fully press the pedal in).

Any ideas?

 

[HybridKid]

You are going to have to change the Master.

 

[Michal Bogdanowicz]

I just replaced clutch master cylinder aka <CMS> with EXEDY MC464 from rockauto.com (love this site for maintenance parts<3) cost about 81 CAD thats 61 USD $.

Installation was pretty easy (you really need a swivel for CMS under dash upper bolt -13mm).

Results? Car shifts like Formula 1!! Clutch disengages and engages 4 times smother and selecting gears is 10x better -Big WOW!!!

Even with ACT XTSS (540 ft lbs of torque) and only 500km on it it engages smoothly. Modern Performance says " hard to drive on street" about this clutch - imo total BS! You can slip it like a stocker and clutch pedal feel is almost the same as stock.

Couple tips:

1. Removal of drives seat makes it a lot easier and takes less than minute with electric ratchet (15mm bolts-2 from front side, 2 from back - use extension)
2. Remove clip from brake fluid level sensor to have better access to wiggle clutch fluid reservoir out.
3. Remove that small metal bracket from clutch reservoir that attaches it to body(there goes 10mm nut)-makes removal of that small tank piece of cake, especially when you have some extra wires running via firewall.
4. Put the rod in(comes separate) after you install your new CMS (it just simply snaps in) - that way you avoid any potential damage while maneuvering with CMS during installation.
It also makes tightening the upper CMS bolt piece of cake (need swivel anyway).
5. To remove CMS from firewall you need to shift it a bit to the right (fender) - brake booster is in a way.
6. Dont even try to remove slave cylinder without taking intercooler cold side pipe - its almost impossible to do it without removal of cold side pipe.
7. Its impossible to bleed system using clutch pedal even tho all the air is near it - you need to use slave cylinder to bleed the whole air out
8. Dont remove completely battery holding bracket - just make it loose enough to remove battery-its hard to put it back on after complete removal(lack of space)
9. NEVER PUSH CLUTCH PEDAL WHEN SLAVE CYLINDER IS OUT OF TRANNY

 

[Plan B]

Um, don't all non-modular clutches rattle? I know my XTSS does...

 

[Michal Bogdanowicz]

Um, don't all non-modular clutches rattle? I know my XTSS does...

Mine rattle on idle, decelerating and basically all the time except acceleration (or if i press the clutch pedal in).

But I had the same sound with stock clutch - maybe it was so badly fucked up

 

[FuJi]

I just replaced clutch master cylinder aka <CMS> with EXEDY MC464 from rockauto.com (love this site for maintenance parts<3) cost about 81 CAD thats 61 USD $.

Installation was pretty easy (you really need a swivel for CMS under dash upper bolt -13mm).

Results? Car shifts like Formula 1!! Clutch disengages and engages 4 times smother and selecting gears is 10x better -Big WOW!!!

Even with ACT XTSS (540 ft lbs of torque) and only 500km on it it engages smoothly. Modern Performance says " hard to drive on street" about this clutch - imo total BS! You can slip it like a stocker and clutch pedal feel is almost the same as stock.

Couple tips:

1. Removal of drives seat makes it a lot easier and takes less than minute with electric ratchet (15mm bolts-2 from front side, 2 from back - use extension)
2. Remove clip from brake fluid level sensor to have better access to wiggle clutch fluid reservoir out.
3. Remove that small metal bracket from clutch reservoir that attaches it to body(there goes 10mm nut)-makes removal of that small tank piece of cake, especially when you have some extra wires running via firewall.
4. Put the rod in(comes separate) after you install your new CMS (it just simply snaps in) - that way you avoid any potential damage while maneuvering with CMS during installation.
It also makes tightening the upper CMS bolt piece of cake (need swivel anyway).
5. To remove CMS from firewall you need to shift it a bit to the right (fender) - brake booster is in a way.
6. Dont even try to remove slave cylinder without taking intercooler cold side pipe - its almost impossible to do it without removal of cold side pipe.
7. Its impossible to bleed system using clutch pedal even tho all the air is near it - you need to use slave cylinder to bleed the whole air out
8. Dont remove completely battery holding bracket - just make it loose enough to remove battery-its hard to put it back on after complete removal(lack of space)
9. NEVER PUSH CLUTCH PEDAL WHEN SLAVE CYLINDER IS OUT OF TRANNY

How did the Exedy MC464 hold up long term ?
Looking to replace my master and slave cylinders.