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me (6'2" and 235 lbs) and a friend (6'4" 275 lbs) grunted, sweat, cussed, jimmied, wiggled, pushed, pulled, and finally just got one of those 18mm (i think thats what they are) at the top of the case started. then once we got a few rotations we just moved it around some more and more and more until we got it to keep torquing down and it pulled everything right into place. i put the jack on the top of a floor jack and laid under the car, which was on jackstands, and balanced the trans on the top of it. my friend stood over the car and reached down in the engine bay and did what he could from up there. it IS a pain in the ass, i will admit it, but not THAT bad. just man up :) haha naw but really, good luck with the install.
 

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Well...I have made various threads about what to buy and how to do it and been using the how-to's etc. Well here is my horror story...

After following the how-to to get everything disconnected, it took me about 5 hours....first timer doing this. Well, I forgot to disconnect the shift cable bracket from the transmission and I think I damaged the cables when I dropped down the tranny...oh fuck me....Anyway...The next day while installing the TOB I broke off one of those little tabs on the side that someone else was talking about in this thread earlier. I didn't even think about inspecting the TOB fork for wear, but I now wish I would have. I got everything reinstalled and then started her up and then the shit begins. lol. While the clutch pedal is fully pushed in, it sounds like a jackhammer is knocking around in my bellhousing. I was like WTF!? Not to mention, now after having everything put back together I cant seem to get into 2nd, 4th, and reverse. Is it possible to maybe bend a shift-cable back or am I F-U-C-T????? I think I am going to have to buy a new fork from S&P and call it a day. Hopefully this fixes the problem.

Btw....I am installing a Centerforce Dual-Friction modular clutch. Stock flexplate. New flexplate-to-clutch bolts, new TOB. Soon to be fork and pivot.
Issues while re-installing the tranny:

1. If you can...get a tranny jack...will help quite a bit. I couldn't find one anywhere so I went to autozone and bought a motorcycle/ATV jack, use this in conjunction with the stock scissor jack and maybe a friend and you should be able to atleast align one of the bolts for installation.
2. Don't disconnect the slave cylinder from the line...just pull it out of the bellhousing.
3. You don't need to separate the intermediate shaft from the passenger side axle...just undo the mounting bracket and pull them both out as one piece. (this will save me about 1 hour upon redoing this install.)
4. Find good friends to help
5. Don't let anyone push the pedal while the slave cylinder is disconnected from bellhousing.
6. Careful with those tie rod bushings if you do plan on separating them. (one was already busted when I got in there, so I replaced it)
7. Oh yea...Mark which hole on your clutch is going to be the alignment bolt hole. Trust me on this one....PITA!

I think that's it for tips and tricks from a first timer.
 

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Heres a solution that can be found on ebay for less then $100 shipped.



Also, get the big jack stands that extend to 19 inches and get the car up in the air so theres room to work underneath with plenty of clearance and when working up top so you do not strain your back.
 

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Engine hoist and two floor jacks worked...I'll be using the hoist and a motorcycle jack next time. What a bitch though.

Got everything together and I went to fill the tranny fluid...came dripping out the driver's side axle. :buah: :mopar:

Looked like it wasn't in all the way. Pulled the caliper off and strut bolts and wiggled the axle out...looked in and couldn't see anything blocking it...pushed it back in and it's in the same spot, just slightly out. Got tired of screwing with it tonight.

edit:

buddy of mine came over at midnight (you da man narfdanarf :hi: ) and pushed the axle ALL the way in...it's good to go, no leak.

going to bleed the clutch tomorrow, flush the coolant, re do the tranny fluid...and I think it may be ready to go.
 

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Engine hoist through the engine bay is the easiest, imo. Slide trans under car, chain it through the engine bay with the host and lift it up into place and wiggle it in until you can get a bolt through.

Motorcycle/ATV jack would also be a nice unit to use if you don't want to spend the moola on a transmission jack. I found them for about $50 and able to hold up to 1,000 lbs.
 

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Well i contacted my dealership about this situation today and they ran the part numbers and they said that my warranty covers the TOB fork and pivot. So iam going to have it looked at next week and see what they say. I got my fingers crossed. They have replaced my valve cover gasket, lca bushing, and solenoid in the last few months all under warranty even with all my mods. I have 70,000kms on my car, and fresh clutch at 50,000

Ill let you guys know what happens and what they say.
 

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My clutch was swapped out for a ACT street clutch with the lighter flywheel this weekend. Here in Indiana there is a guy who has replaced many of the srt-4 clutches and he has it down. This is the 1st time my car has needed work. With 84k on the clock, I am very pleased.

Guys it is crazy how crappy this TOB fork is. Not only was it worn down a crazy amount just like the pic's at the beginning of this thread, BUT, it was bent and the TOB was hitting a different part of the TOB fork and that put nasty gashes on it. Did you read that? Yes, my TOB fork was bent. I have a picture of it.... I wish I could post it up on this web site... I just don't know how.

The stock clutch was right on the edge of being a goner as well. It was slipping. After it was pulled out you could move it back and forth and the dumb thing makes all kinds of noises. Geeze.

The ACT street clutch is very nice. It is taking some getting used too... the release point is very narrow. But it doesn't seem much stiffer than the stock. I can handle it. I love how the car, once again, really puts you in your seat under hard accel runs! The lightened flywheel from ACT is also installed.

Thank you to S&P for super fast shipping on the TOB fork and pivot ball. Turns out I did not really need the pivot ball, but sometimes it is needed and at 8 bucks, shoot, might as well.
 

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ok my car when clutch is in the whole way car still wants to move since its not fully disengaging... could this be from the shift fork? this would be a hard one to figure out good job for finding out this was ur problem... my gears are hard to go in and out like acully near impossible too so i can't even drive the car.. let me know if i should rip the tranny back out for the 3rd time

also how many miles on ur cars? mine has 24,000 is this possibly my probelem
I just changed my clutch two days ago and I was having this exact problem too! Thank God I read this thread. I think I'm gonna need to get everythng new for my car because it ahs 57,000 miles already!!
 

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Gooo.... I am having this happen now. Thank God this thread exists. As I was reading, I recognized all these signs of fork wear. Maybe I can bribe the MA guys to help.
 

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Awesome Thread

I am having the same problems and I adusted the inside clutch piece so much it broke off ,,(plastic no less) Its been this way since I bought the car new.. I will be doing this soon..
Thanks. 41,000 miles on it 2005______I will let you know how it turns out.
 

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Well here is my fork arm..looks alittle worn you think!!!! Stock clucth looks ok but while its out it only sounds right to replace. I have stage 2 now with stock turbo but in the near future i will go big tubro. What is the best clucth?

 

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Nothing but good things about the southbend clutch! 3 out of 5 guys in colorado recommend it. But then I have heard good things about ptp stage 3 clutch. Its realy tuff to decide on clutch because i haven't made my move on a turbo set up. But like I said while im in there the stock clutch is coming out.
 

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I love my Southbend Stage5x too.
 
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