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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First off i'd like to thank Mrcho and xmdfmk7x for pointing me in the right direction and saving me form spending way to much money to fix my annoying clutch issue. to start my clutch wasn't disengaing all the way after installing a new mopar clutch, making shifting into any gear almost impossible. also i would hear a jackhammer sound come from my clutch area when the clutch was pressed to the floor.

After talking with the 2 forum members above i decided to take there advise and purchase a new TOB fork, as xmdfmk7x told me, the problem will become obvious when you see it and can compare the old tob fork with the new tob fork.

just take a look at these pics (i apologize for the poor quality)


as you can see where the TOB sits on the TOB fork is completely worn down losing almost 1/4 inch of material, this is iron mind you :readclose



from another angle, you can really see how much is missing off of this fork and it becomes obvious why the clutch isn't disengaging completely. no matter how far you adjust the clutch pedal..



The old fork .



The new fork.



this is where the old tob fork was hitting the clutch pressure plate housing. note this polished portion.



comparison of the new and old tob forks, note the contact point on the old tob fork.



Here is where the tob fork was hitting my clutch, you can see where it removed the blue paint, lucky no damage was done.



another shot of the clutch/tob contact point.

Now the results, after removing the old fork and installing the new fork the car shifts 100% better, better then the car was stock, [email protected] i can shift with 1 finger now, compared to two hands and still couldn't get into gear. I couldn't believe the tob fork would be the issue, but the pictures don't lie, anyone doing a clutch install should reference these pics to see if you tob fork is worn, if it is, get a new one don't go through the headaches!

I'd thought i'd edit and add some of the symptoms i was having before hand. first the clutch woudln't disengage properly, the car would move forward slowly in 1st with the clutch all the way down. It shifted better when cold (first starting out in the morning) vs driving for a while, it would be progressivly worse trying to shift the longer i drove it. Couldn't get into 1st or reverse, and the other gear we extremely hard to get into also, but rev matching helped. now all those problems are gone, after the install we got the car on a lift and adjusted the clutch pedal to the point that the tires woldn't spin in first with the clutch to the floor. all is good now, and I can finally WOT 3-4 again! this is one of those issues that if goes unfixed, can over time, do damage to your syncros shifts forks etc. Also, the issue wasn't so bad with the old clutch in the car, but as a clutch wears, the fingers on the pressure plate move up and makes up for the worn material on the tob fork. but even 30k miles ago way before the new clutch install. I had the car on the lift, and for some reason or another I had the car in first clutch down and my father said, huh you front tires are spinning...
 

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We should make this thread a 'sticky' because I think this problem is more common than most people think. I know we are not the only two members on the board that have this same problem. SexySRTChick also had the same issue. Glad that I was able to help you out and you have it fixed. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes your help is much appreciated indeed xmdfmk7x. I would never in a million years think that the TOB fork would be the issue. I think its a overlooked part that needs more attention during clutch installs just to avoid this. Also too add the whine my TOB made is gone now too :readclose
 

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Thats alright bro, Im really happy for you...

I dumped over 2000$ in to find that the problem was finally the fork, I changed everything else except the fork and even TWICE (clutch, complete hydraulic system, TOB, etc.) , and Im happy to see that what I invested to find the problem it at least helped others not spend too much money and look where the real problem sits....

Good luck man!

:clap:
 

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PN on the fork if you have it?
Im starting to see the wheels spin a bit more now. Everytime I have the trans out it seems to spin the wheels a bit more. If I give it gas with it in 1st and the pedal down it will get the wheels to about 5MPH. I dont have any shifting problems though. Car seems to drive fine but I am going to buy a new one for the hell of it so I dont have to worry.

Chris.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
dodge2004srt4 said:
PN on the fork if you have it?
Im starting to see the wheels spin a bit more now. Everytime I have the trans out it seems to spin the wheels a bit more. If I give it gas with it in 1st and the pedal down it will get the wheels to about 5MPH. I dont have any shifting problems though. Car seems to drive fine but I am going to buy a new one for the hell of it so I dont have to worry.

Chris.
4725612AA clutch release lever (TOB Fork)
4670240 clutch pivot
5019842AA clutch clip

it costs roughtly 140$ all togehter, i know the TOB fork is 130 the other items are liek 5 bucks.

S&P Development has these items btw :thumbsup: and they sell them for about 50 dollars less then what the dealership would charge. dealer price on teh TOB fork is 170
 

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I just replaced the part also! I was haveing the exact same problem. I get the car back this week i'll let you know how it shifts but reading this makes me feel a little better about the repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mrcho said:
Thats alright bro, Im really happy for you...

I dumped over 2000$ in to find that the problem was finally the fork, I changed everything else except the fork and even TWICE (clutch, complete hydraulic system, TOB, etc.) , and Im happy to see that what I invested to find the problem it at least helped others not spend too much money and look where the real problem sits....

Good luck man!

:clap:
Thanks alot for you help too mrcho. Its your troubleshooting that will save many people money, I mean i was convinced my syncro's were bad or my shift forks. who would think of the tob fork causing this issue.. now the goal is to get everyone aware of it :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
bluebeast said:
I just replaced the part also! I was haveing the exact same problem. I get the car back this week i'll let you know how it shifts but reading this makes me feel a little better about the repair.
Please do let us know!
 

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I was gonna make a post about this last week...
and about 3 months ago.. but I never have time to post anything lately..
I'm eating a PB+J during my 15 min lunch break.. whilst I post this..

This is the exact reason I designed and am announcing another new product.


 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
holy sh!t nemo! that would also get rid of our crappy slave's as well :wah?!: nice indeed! Whats pricing looking like? and hows the install? I'm going to take a shot in the dark and say this must replace teh entire hydrolic setup right up to the pedal?
 

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Yes and it's completly bleedable.. We have it working with the stock master and gonna be trying it with a larger aftermarket master. But we have had it in a car for about 2 months and it works great and shifting is awesome.. Retail price is look about $399 if you reuse your stock master..
 

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Wow, Im very impressed..The fork.PN04725612AA comes with the clip and rubber grommet which attaches to the pivot ball. before you order the part inspect the pivot ball condition because you have to order that as well if it's damaged. The pivot ball and clip/grommet was missing on my tranny,it made shifting into grear near impossible.I almost forgot, in order to change out the pivot ball you'll need a MILLER special tool part no.c-3752 slide hammer & remove/installer part no. 6891. :clap:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Indeed i also replaced my pivot ball, it was worn quite a bit also compared to the new one.

This needs to be a sticky :)
 

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ok my car when clutch is in the whole way car still wants to move since its not fully disengaging... could this be from the shift fork? this would be a hard one to figure out good job for finding out this was ur problem... my gears are hard to go in and out like acully near impossible too so i can't even drive the car.. let me know if i should rip the tranny back out for the 3rd time

also how many miles on ur cars? mine has 24,000 is this possibly my probelem
 

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Discussion Starter #17
mooseman0 said:
ok my car when clutch is in the whole way car still wants to move since its not fully disengaging... could this be from the shift fork? this would be a hard one to figure out good job for finding out this was ur problem... my gears are hard to go in and out like acully near impossible too so i can't even drive the car.. let me know if i should rip the tranny back out for the 3rd time

also how many miles on ur cars? mine has 24,000 is this possibly my probelem
its possible, better to take the tranny out and have a look then to not know at all, if its worn replace it. I'm assuming you meant to say TOB fork instead of shift fork in your second sentence.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
NemoFoss said:
seltech is it cool if I rip off your pics.. as the ones I took suck compared to yours...:yesmaster
you may indeed :thumbsup: these pics are open to all, and are to be shared. just right click them and save as!
 
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