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Some People have had problems with their trasmissions/clutches. This is the FSM Bleeding procedure for the T850 transmission clutch hydraulic system. It has been posted before but I am putting this up so everyone can see it if and when they get a similar problem. I just recently replaced Jeans Slave cylinder and soon the master cylinder. I have done the bleeding procedure as described and does work nicely. *DCX says it's a non bleed system*

Procedure for bleeding Clutch Hydraulics
2.4L Engine (With Turbo)

From driver’s seat, actuate clutch pedal 60–100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:​

(1) Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir.
Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove clutch slave cylinder/damper assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the hydraulic system. Lift nylon tab
with a small screwdriver, and then depress cylinderinward towards case and rotating cylinder 60° counter-clockwise. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.

CAUTION: While slave cylinder is detached from the

transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder.
Damage to the slave cylinder will result.



(4) Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten (10) times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
(5) Install clutch slave cylinder into position, noting orientation of different sized lugs. While depressing inward, rotate slave cylinder clockwise until nylon locating tab rests in transaxle case cutout, and the hydraulic tube is vertical
(6) Lower vehicle.​
(7) Check and adjust clutch master cylinderfluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy,
or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 - Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
(8) Raise vehicle.
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) Top off clutch master cylinderfluid level with
DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.


SPECIFICATIONS CLUTCH/HYDRAULICS/PEDALS TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS


~ DESCRIPTION /N·m /Ft. Lbs. / In. Lbs. ~
  • Brake/Clutch Pedal & Booster-to-Dash Nuts: ......... 34 300
  • Brake/Clutch Pedal Assembly-to-Instrument Panel: 34 300
  • Clutch Cover-to-Flywheel Bolts: ........................... 29 250
  • Clutch Pedal Pivot Shaft Nut: ................................ 42 31
  • Damper-to-Transaxle Nuts: .................................. 24 215
  • Driveplate-to-Crankshaft Bolts: ............................ 95 70
  • Flywheel-to-Crankshaft Bolts: .............................. 95 70
  • Master Cylinder Pushrod Adj. Screw: ..................... 6 55
  • Modular Clutch-to-Drive Plate Bolts: ..................... 88 65
  • Master Cylinder Mounting Nuts (LHD): ................... 15 130
  • Master Cylinder Reservoir Mounting bolts (LHD): .... 11 100
  • Transaxle-to-Engine Mounting Bolts: ..................... 95 70
Clutch pedal Adjustment
Loosen the 8mm adjustment screw, Gently lift up clutch pedal until the clutch pedal fully depresses the Upstop switch.

Torque Adjustment screw to 6 N.m (55 in. Lbs.)
Here is a good thread about the clutch pedal adjustment with a pic!
 

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Nice stuff!

This should be done with the fluid cap on or off? I would assume off, I just gotta make sure though.

Another thing that doesn't make sense to me, is that they say it's a non bleed system, but they still sell the parts seperately. You'd think they'd sell the master, line(s), hose(s), and slave all as an assembly, no questions asked. Wierd.

BTW, what exactly does FSM mean?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
BigPowerfulMachine said:
Nice stuff!

This should be done with the fluid cap on or off? I would assume off, I just gotta make sure though.

Another thing that doesn't make sense to me, is that they say it's a non bleed system, but they still sell the parts seperately. You'd think they'd sell the master, line(s), hose(s), and slave all as an assembly, no questions asked. Wierd.

BTW, what exactly does FSM mean?
FSM means "Factory Service Manual"

It should be with the cap off.

Usually the master and slave cylinder come with the Brake fluid already in it. this allows the parts to be joined without getting air in the system.
 

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is the pushrod coming thru the firewall from teh clutch master cyl supposed to be able to wiggle back and forth at all? mine does about and inch or so back and forth..it feels loosae as all hell. I think it may be why those clutch pedal pivot retaining clips keep breaking on mine.

Im going to assume i need a new clutch master cylinder.
 

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Sticky!
 

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you need to readjust your clutch pedal under the dash and adjust your shift cables from under the center console. sounds more like your shift cables need adjustment.
I recently replaced my ACT clutch with another ACT clutch and it is still slipping and now has a knocking noise when the pedal is pushed all the way in. I called ACT and they said to try readjusting the pedal. I told the shop that and they said you don't readjust it because it's hydrolic not cable. Is that true? He said the only thing he could try is bleeding it. Do you think that could help?
 

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I have a question if you replace the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder do you still need to bleed the clutch?
If they came as a complete unit no.
 
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