Just a slight rant, but it is absolutely pointless to "prime the oil pump" on these engines. I assume that you cranked it but somehow prevented it from starting so that it could prime? The problem is that is no different than just starting it. These engines are not v6, v8's where you can prime the oil pump with a drill without rotating the rotating assembly. Your not saving yourself from any destructive forces by doing it when the oil pump is driven off the crankshaft. The only way to safely prime these motors is to pressurize oil in a container then force it into the block. Any other method that involves turning the engine over to prime it is not saving you from anything. Thats what good assembly lube is for, to protect the components on first startup!I did what I found most people doing, prime the oil pump, do the first startup, run it to3k rpm for 15-20 mins, change the oil and filter, for the remaining break in I always varied the rpms between 1k-4k and downshifted constantly to keep the engine in as heavy vacuum as possible, I used break in oil for that warm up run, then did dino 10/30 with a shooter of the zddp engine break in additive for the first couple changes, then just 10/30, and just changed it to straight dino 10/40 after the break in.
And I don't have an erg, not sure how it is on the neons but I have an 03 pt cruiser gt so no egr
Also, unless your running cast iron rings like this is 1970, your rings seated themselves in about about 1 minute. All of those old break in procedures are carry overs from the baby boomers back when those procedures were accurate for a different ring style. Moly rings used in almost every thing today will seat themselves within the first few minutes, if not sooner. Your not hurting anything by attempting to break it in the way you did, but your break in ended well before you think it did.