[SRT-Hunter]

About 3 years ago when I first got into the car scene (with my civic si), I remember someone telling me that they were kinda scared of using slicks (on their si) because they didnt want to break an axle. That has stuck with me ever since, and I never really wanted to try them.

Do you think hondas axles are particularly weak...or will slicks eventually take a toll (or even break them) on any car?? Take the SRT-4 for example....its got a lot of torque as it is... but with a stage 2 or 3 kit, the force is gonna be brutal. Can the axles handle that force with slicks?

 

[RUgoinUp]

There's only one way to find out! Oh yeah, and make sure you have AAA & a ride home when you try it.

I've only used them after upgrading my axles but I'll tell you this, there aren't too many things in this world that compare to the feeling of redlining your car with slicks and lettin that baby rocket you like a slingshot. You'll be HOOKED like a drug! :lol:

 

[Exhaust Depot]

You dont need slicks. You can get away with running DOT approved Drag radials. They hook great. Not as much as slicks, but it will be pleanty for a 300 HP srt.

 

[hemidakota]

Why Slicks?

My question, why would you run slicks?

This is only used for drag cars only and not street cars. Remember, any time that recorded is invalid for proof for the street.

This is a problem with the SVT guys (L owners), making claims how fast the vehicle is in the 1/4 mile but this is not reality at all when it comes to real street time.

Did you noticed when the manufacter or car mags don't use any slicks for 1/4 mile time?

Not to gripe but bringing back to reality.

 

[RUgoinUp]

I tried drag radials & they sucked for me. Slicks will give you the best ET as we all know. As for a low hp FWD car, maybe they are more appropriate at this time. I wouldn't waste my money on them again. I totally disagree that slicks are for drag cars only, my car was a street car when I first used them. If you're going to a drag track, running a drag tire isn't inappropriate.

 

[NeonDan]

if you break one i'd like to see what ur ETs are and your dyno plot :shock: :? 8)

 

[RUgoinUp]

if you break one i'd like to see what ur ETs are and your dyno plot :shock: :? 8)

If I don't I bet you'd like to see those ET's even more. Hunter was asking if we thought the SRT's axles could handle slicks w/out breaking, my answer is I wouldn't try it w/out upgrading them first. He wasn't looking for an alternative to running a slick. If he or any one else wants to run a slick don't try to dissuade him! :roll:

 

[daytonagts]

I don’t know if they will break an axel, But good sticky slicks do have a reputation of showing you the weekest link in your power train. Trust me I know from plenty experience. Can you say “Chico Towing”. :wink:

 

[dragomni]

You darn right you could break an axle! But who cares, they make more everday and being you just spent $20k on a car, what's a $100 axle!?!?

I've run a handful of Mopar FWD cars over the years with slicks, never broke anything. Could have happened at any time but it didn't. I would sure hope that Mopar has made a stronger drivetrain in the SRT-4 than in a freakin Omni. Some cars just are not made to handle high hp, but I would think that Mopar with thier experience in turbo FWDs over the years would have some pretty stout goods in a 220whp car from the factory.

Drag radials are good for a RWD car, can get well under 2.0s on DRs in a RWD, have seen 1.6s even. On a FWD they aren't too hot, most likely run 2.2s, well with practice you can do that on a street tire. The only difference I can really see on a FWD is if you spin at the bottom of the next gear on shifts, say 1-2 and 2-3.

 

[SRT-Hunter]

ya....i was just wondering if you could snap an axle. I really dont have much interest in running slicks at the track (even though RUgoingup made it sound kinda tempting). I'd rather have my times with street tires....it holds more credibility.

 

[dragomni]

Street tire numbers mean nothing to a person that drag races, no credibility other than at least you tried. The only cars that street tire numbers are accurate are AWDs. I've beat many a "fast" car at the track that could have beat me on the street. I would rather win than lose. Track numbers mean everything, it is where you can extract the most from your car.

You tell a guy you ran 13.5 at the track, he has run 14.0, chances are he won't even try to race you, repsects that your car is faster. His 14.0 might be at 110mph and your 13.5 at 101mph, him having the faster car, but you have the numbers, the proof of what you and your car can do.

Nothing wrong with running street tires if you're worried about breaking something but don't think your car is slow because you turned a slow ET. Breaking something could happen on slicks, could happen when you're street racing and miss a gear, could happen when you're drag racing at the track on street tires, spin, and then hook, anything can happen. Friend broke an axle once at the track on streets. I wouldn't be too worried about breaking these cars unless you are making far more power than stock or abusing it far beyond its limitations which have yet to be determined, come on, be the first to find out!

 

[SRT-Hunter]

i meant credibility with ordinary SCC enthusisasts you meet on the street. The guys who use their cars as daily drivers. Not the guys who trailor their cars to the strip.

 

[dragomni]

I've drag raced for almost 10 years now, sometimes close to a dozen trips a season, never have trailered a car there, always been daily drivers. I drive 70 miles to the track, bring my tools with, jack it up, put the slicks on, race all day, unbolt them and drive home. This is how all the scc racers here do it. This year I have a DSM I'm working on, going to drive it there, run my 13s, drive it home, no slicks to change this year. If it comes on a trailer it'd better run close to the 11s or be something that has no business going fast at all, like a Yugo or Chevette.

Don't be surprised if you get heckled when telling people your times at the track on street tires....

I'm guessing my times will be terrible my first day out, getting used to AWD launches, bangin the gears, and so on. Goal is mid to low 13s under 100mph. I can do it, others have, just will take practice.

Here's another example of slicks vs streets. Last season my brother had a 00 Civic EX 5-spd. Had header, exhaust, and intake. There were SIs with the same mods. His best of the day was 15.4 @ 87mph while the SIs with mods were running in the high 15s and even low 16s at about the same mph. They were just in awe at how they got beat by an EX, they didn't have a clue as to why. Driver skill which comes with practice, and the traction. I ran my carbed Omni this same day and ran 15.8s at 83mph with 2.0 60fts, they really don't like that.

My R/T with the 22x8x15s
http://webpages.charter.net/dragomni/myrttrack1.jpg

My black GLH-T times on slicks
http://webpages.charter.net/dragomni/glhturbo.html

 

[meddle]

Ive figured out most of the abbreviations, but whats DSM?

 

[dragomni]

Diamond Start Motors, Eagle Talon, Mitsu Eclipse, Galant VR4

 

[boostedneonsrt4]

i think the srt-4 axels are pretty strong seeing how none of the mopar upgrades include upgraded axels.....not saying that slicks wouldnt break them......i know nothing about slicks so im staying out of that.............

 

[hemidakota]

if you break one i'd like to see what ur ETs are and your dyno plot :shock: :? 8)

If I don't I bet you'd like to see those ET's even more. Hunter was asking if we thought the SRT's axles could handle slicks w/out breaking, my answer is I wouldn't try it w/out upgrading them first. He wasn't looking for an alternative to running a slick. If he or any one else wants to run a slick don't try to dissuade him! :roll:

The alternative is the Mickey Thompson semi-slicks or drag radials.