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Discussion Starter #1
I just did timing belt and and somehow i am one tooth retarded on the exhaust cam witch is 10.58 degrees of timming.

I see lots of people running there cars at 6 degrese retarded and 1 degree advanced on intake

What if any are the dangers of having the exhuast cam retarded 10 degree?

Matt'!~
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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nope!
the intake has to be 1/2 tooth above the exhaust gear,your exhaust gear looks to be a tooth above your intake gear.
here is a copy and paste from the how to i showed you.
You will need a 18mm box wrench on the exhaust gear. Once you have the belt on the gear have a extra hand and hold the crank at TDC.(Never at any time turn the crank counter clockwise this will mess up your engine) loosen the idler pulley then slide the belt on from the water pump. Once on then tighten the idler pulley . Keeping the crank at tdc because it will move when you move the belt. Now turn the exhaust gear to the right until its about 1 full notch below the intake gear. The reasoning is when you tighten in tensioner the gear will pull its self up about 1/2 notch then your timing is right on. It usually takes me a couple tries to get it.(over tightening could mess up the tensioner or over tightening it could cause the belt to be uneven and rub against the block. (seen that happen before) keep a eye on the crank make sure its at TDC and look at the timing make sure its right. TO ENSURE YOUR CAR IS AT TDC TURN THE CRANK CLOCKWISE 2 FULL TURNS AND LOOK AT THE NOTCHES if its at tdc the intake 1/2 notch above the exhaust then you did it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
nope!
the intake has to be 1/2 tooth above the exhaust gear,your exhaust gear looks to be a tooth above your intake gear.
here is a copy and paste from the how to i showed you.
You will need a 18mm box wrench on the exhaust gear. Once you have the belt on the gear have a extra hand and hold the crank at TDC.(Never at any time turn the crank counter clockwise this will mess up your engine) loosen the idler pulley then slide the belt on from the water pump. Once on then tighten the idler pulley . Keeping the crank at tdc because it will move when you move the belt. Now turn the exhaust gear to the right until its about 1 full notch below the intake gear. The reasoning is when you tighten in tensioner the gear will pull its self up about 1/2 notch then your timing is right on. It usually takes me a couple tries to get it.(over tightening could mess up the tensioner or over tightening it could cause the belt to be uneven and rub against the block. (seen that happen before) keep a eye on the crank make sure its at TDC and look at the timing make sure its right. TO ENSURE YOUR CAR IS AT TDC TURN THE CRANK CLOCKWISE 2 FULL TURNS AND LOOK AT THE NOTCHES if its at tdc the intake 1/2 notch above the exhaust then you did it right.
Dang.
can i get to the tensioner easily? without having to remove all the stuff i had to remove the water pump?
 

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im in the process right now of doing all this stuff iv actually got my head off the car,but i think you gotta take your motor mounts out and then support your motor and take the 3rd motor mount bolt out(in the fender well) lower the motor alittle take your alt power steering belts off pull your harmonic balancer off,timing covers.pretty much just have to redo everything you did the first time.you dont have to remove the water pump it was just easier pulling the belt off the water pump first.
 

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yea you will have to remove the top and bottom motor mount and the motor mount bracket to get to the belt tensioner. it sucks but it has to be done that way.

when you tighten the tensioner it will pull the intake gear about 1/2 notch. the best way is to hold the exhaust gear in place with a 18mm box wrench so it will not move when you tighten the tensioner. the exhaust gear will be 1/2 notch below the intake. whne you tighten the tensioner up the lines should line up almost perfectly..
 

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ok i think im gettin abit to tired but do the gears wanna be lined up evenly or should the exhaust gear be 1/2 tooth under the intake?
 

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You can get to the timing belt tensioner without completly taking out the MM bracket...PITA, yes, but doable. IMO it's easier to just take out the MM bracket...you just have to find the right spot, and It'll slide right in and out.
 

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ok i think im gettin abit to tired but do the gears wanna be lined up evenly or should the exhaust gear be 1/2 tooth under the intake?
my post in the how-to are old. i know latter in the post i wrote more in in ,but i didn't fix my post. im working on it now.

the exhaust cam should be 1/2 below the intake. some times the cam likes to move so i hold it with a 188 wrench. when you tighten up the tensioner the marks should line up perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the help. got it done in hour and a half! haha much easier the second time around!

now all i need is a tps! anyone have a tps for sale?

Matt'~
 

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I know this an old topic but just would like to ask for some help. I just replaced the timing belt and getting P0344 code ( intermittent cam shaft code ). The engine starts fine and run very smooth at idle but doesn't rev higher than 2300rpm. Is that possible to get a tooth off and still get a smooth idle? I hope don't need to do timing again and just replacement of cam sensor + magnet will fix it.
Any help is welcome.
 

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I know this an old topic but just would like to ask for some help. I just replaced the timing belt and getting P0344 code ( intermittent cam shaft code ). The engine starts fine and run very smooth at idle but doesn't rev higher than 2300rpm. Is that possible to get a tooth off and still get a smooth idle? I hope don't need to do timing again and just replacement of cam sensor + magnet will fix it.
Any help is welcome.
I had the same issue with the car not going over 2300 rpm and gosh damn it's a pain in the ass when driving. You need to replace the magnet and cam sensor as well as the crankshaft sensor just to be safe. That one is right behind the starter and is a b**** to get to if you don't remove the starter.
 
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