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Discussion Starter #1
New here. Curious about a few things.

-What kind of internals should I look at upgrading to avoid anything catastrophic happening?

-If so, are there any manufacturers that are more reputable than others?

-How much hp can the stock trans handle before needing upgrades to maintain reliability?

I've seen cars with bwst making near 400hp and that's what I'm shooting for. Maybe between 4-500 if that's doable without dumping 10k+ into the car?

Doing my first ever build over the next few months and will be breaking the motor down to build it moderately. Just really looking for some guidance on how to build a reliable motor that can make between 4-500hp. Asking about bwst first because I'm going to send it off while I build the rest. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is there a need to rebuild motor other than you think you should do it for 400hp?
Haven't quite found a motor yet to be honest😅 meaning I'm purchasing a shell minus motor, trans, and some smaller stuff like seats, lights, etc. in the next week or so from a buddy

Which is why when I find a motor, I'm probably going to tear it down as much as I need to and/or start building it
 

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If a rebuild on the motor is needed and you want it to handle anything a BWS can throw at it, consider the JE piston/ eagle rod combo. (Tons of people have used this combo with great success.

its also offered in a full bottom end rebuild kit.


As for the trans. 400hp is not a big deal. You'd want to address the normal known issues. install an AGP billet shift selector and consider swapping in an upgraded 3/4 gear shift fork and syncro. There is a possibility of damaging the input shaft, but i dont think its likely. I havent broken one yet.... fingers crossed
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If a rebuild on the motor is needed and you want it to handle anything a BWS can throw at it, consider the JE piston/ eagle rod combo. (Tons of people have used this combo with great success.

its also offered in a full bottom end rebuild kit.


As for the trans. 400hp is not a big deal. You'd want to address the normal known issues. install an AGP billet shift selector and consider swapping in an upgraded 3/4 gear shift fork and syncro. There is a possibility of damaging the input shaft, but i dont think its likely. I havent broken one yet.... fingers crossed

Thank you for the info. I have been doing some research on bws builds and a few people have been saying that it might be worth it to just go big turbo from the get go, as a bws will feel slow after a couple weeks. Do you have any recommendations for internals if going big turbo? And possibly what turbo I should go with? Thanks a bunch.
 

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Thank you for the info. I have been doing some research on bws builds and a few people have been saying that it might be worth it to just go big turbo from the get go, as a bws will feel slow after a couple weeks. Do you have any recommendations for internals if going big turbo? And possibly what turbo I should go with? Thanks a bunch.
i would recommend the same exact build for a "big" turbo car UNLESS you have future plans for big HP numbers. MANY MANY people have used that setup on all different turbo setups and have had very good success.

The size turbo you look into will vary greatly based on the power numbers you would like and how fast you want it to spool.
 

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i would recommend the same exact build for a "big" turbo car UNLESS you have future plans for big HP numbers. MANY MANY people have used that setup on all different turbo setups and have had very good success.

The size turbo you look into will vary greatly based on the power numbers you would like and how fast you want it to spool.
I'm looking on AGP Turbo website for kits and boy are they expensive 😂 I assume the ".48 A/R", ".63 A/R", etc. Is the turbo size? And as far as the add ons that they have on the website, ceramic coating, fuel upgrade kit, fuel return kit, wastegate reroute? Is any of that necessary?

145866
 

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I'm looking on AGP Turbo website for kits and boy are they expensive 😂 I assume the ".48 A/R", ".63 A/R", etc. Is the turbo size? And as far as the add ons that they have on the website, ceramic coating, fuel upgrade kit, fuel return kit, wastegate reroute? Is any of that necessary?

View attachment 145866
the "A/R" is referring to the exhaust housing of the turbo. Basically, the higher the number the more flow (power potential) but slower spool.

To run any higher flowing turbo ("Big" or BWS) you have to consider fuel upgrades. With more air, the motor needs more fuel to stay safe. You have a lot more reading and research to do.

but to answer your specific questions.
Necessary:
Ceramic coating- No.
fuel upgrade kit- maybe, or you could piece together what you need
fuel return line- most likely. it makes tuning easier
wastegate reroute- no. This only makes the wastegate quieter
 

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If you tune your car correctly The stock engine should be able to take 600+ hp there are guys running around out there on stock engines with huge turbos and there running just fine. The engine and transmission on this car are heavy duty like a pitbull and can take a lot of abuse.
 

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Have you pushed a stock block/internals up to 600hp before? I want the car to be fast but reliable. Like I wanna be able to weld the accelerator to the floor multiple times a night and not have any issues😂😂
 

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Have you pushed a stock block/internals up to 600hp before? I want the car to be fast but reliable. Like I wanna be able to weld the accelerator to the floor multiple times a night and not have any issues😂😂
I’ve never got to 600 with the stock engine. but I was at about 450 with s3 turbo and running around with stock internals just fine. i had my tune dialed in though all my numbers were in check so it was safe for me to have that much horsepower with a stock engine Just fine. i Welded the accelerator To the floor to lol. The engine Was good to go But only because I tuned it correctly and didn’t cut any corners. i know for a fact I’ve seen guys Dyno 600+ on vids with huge turbos and they are on stock internals engine. I happen to know there are a bunch of guys running around out there with stock engine just fine but they all have tuned the car correctly
 

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I’ve never got to 600 with the stock engine. but I was at about 450 with s3 turbo and running around with stock internals just fine. i had my tune dialed in though all my numbers were in check so it was safe for me to have that much horsepower with a stock engine Just fine. i Welded the accelerator To the floor to lol. The engine Was good to go But only because I tuned it correctly and didn’t cut any corners. i know for a fact I’ve seen guys Dyno 600+ on vids with huge turbos and they are on stock internals engine. I happen to know there are a bunch of guys running around out there with stock engine just fine but they all have tuned the car correctly
Are you running your balance shafts? I'm stage one with a modified tune and I have mine. I did pull the pan several years ago to tighten the chain and replace the plastic tensioner.
 

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Are you running your balance shafts? I'm stage one with a modified tune and I have mine. I did pull the pan several years ago to tighten the chain and replace the plastic tensioner.
Yes I am running balance shafts and I don’t ever plan on getting rid of them. I have not had any issues with the balance shafts ever. I figure if I start to hear the chain rattling around on tensioner I will replace the tensioner. Hopefully the Tensioner is still made By fca. I might look into picking up another Tensioner here Just in case I ever need to replace it. I don’t need to fool with the balance shaft I don’t even think about it. Unless you have a drag Car dedicated to racing only With a 1000 hp 4 banger I wouldn’t even think about removing the balance shafts.
 

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Yes I am running balance shafts and I don’t ever plan on getting rid of them. I have not had any issues with the balance shafts ever. I figure if I start to hear the chain rattling around on tensioner I will replace the tensioner. Hopefully the Tensioner is still made By fca. I might look into picking up another Tensioner here Just in case I ever need to replace it. I don’t need to fool with the balance shaft I don’t even think about it. Unless you have a drag Car dedicated to racing only With a 1000 hp 4 banger I wouldn’t even think about removing the balance shafts.
You may want to pick one up. The one I replaced was a dark brown color and the chain was cutting into the plastic. There are two. The non tensioner I did not replace. It looked a little tougher to replace that one. The one I replaced was easy. Yours are probably fine. It is one less thing. to worry about.
 

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You may want to pick one up. The one I replaced was a dark brown color and the chain was cutting into the plastic. There are two. The non tensioner I did not replace. It looked a little tougher to replace that one. The one I replaced was easy. Yours are probably fine. It is one less thing. to worry about.
That’s good to know i think I might have a look at mine some time in The future. Did you get your tensioner at the parts counter through fca?
 

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That’s good to know i think I might have a look at mine some time in The future. Did you get your tensioner at the parts counter through fca?
Dodge dealership. Hopefully they are still available. I replaced my axles several years ago with remans from Dodge. I kept the originals as back ups. Who would of thought a short time later they are no longer available
.
 

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Dodge dealership. Hopefully they are still available. I replaced my axles several years ago with remans from Dodge. I kept the originals as back ups. Who would of thought a short time later they are no longer available
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Oh yah I’ve destroyed plenty of axles. And boy the last axle that broke, the car felt like the world was coming to an end. the car jumped up in the air when the drivers side axle broke. everything is closed I don’t think the dodge dealshership is even opened. fca can’t seem to do anything right so I wouldn’t be surprised if they don’t even have the chain tensioner anymore.
 

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They are only required to keep parts available for 10 years after a car is made. They want us to buy new instead of fixing the old.
 
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