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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone done this besides SRT on the lightweight or am I gonna be the first?

If anyone has done this, where did you route the hose on the passenger side. Things are pretty tight there and I haven't decided how I'm gonna go about doing it there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
robino said:
don't know...the windshield washer's in the way of the duct (considering you're running it from the fog light location...probably have to go under it, then to the back of the brake rotor.

I'm not that concerened about the WW tank, the accessories is what I'm concerened about. Those belts are REAL close to the wheel well and there's not much room on that side to run a hose.
 

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I definitely want to see this when done. Have you considered putting a little deflector plate on the lower control arm like I have seen for subies and vipers? It kind of deflects air up to the brakes. It would probably affect ground clearance though.

Bob
 

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my second gen rx7 had some stock , they were pretty sweet maybe route it from under the car instead of chopping up the front
 

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moltenice said:
yeah.. our oil cooler has one..........
I think thats a steering fluid cooler, the one with the little air dam and fins?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
bobesser said:
I definitely want to see this when done. Have you considered putting a little deflector plate on the lower control arm like I have seen for subies and vipers? It kind of deflects air up to the brakes. It would probably affect ground clearance though.

Bob

Some fiends of mine have done this with their 300ZXTTs. Yes, it is effective, but it is not as effective as when you route ducts to the front bumper.


On my last track car, I installed brake cooling ducts on it. Without the cooling ducts, I would boil Motul 600 RBF brake fluid in 2 laps at Hallet in Oklahoma. With the ducts, I could go 20 minutes non stop with no boiling. This was on a 2002 Hyundai Accent!!
 

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I have heard that removing the fog lights is not very successful because the routing from there to the brakes is not optimum.

What about just to the side of the intercooler? If I remember right, you can see the ends of the intercooler. We could put the intake there just at the end where there is no intercooling taking place. Maybe the routing would be better. Any thoughts? We could make it like the air scoops that the STIs use for their brake ducts (just relocated to the edge of the intercooler.

Bob
 

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bobesser said:
I have heard that removing the fog lights is not very successful because the routing from there to the brakes is not optimum.

What about just to the side of the intercooler? If I remember right, you can see the ends of the intercooler. We could put the intake there just at the end where there is no intercooling taking place. Maybe the routing would be better. Any thoughts? We could make it like the air scoops that the STIs use for their brake ducts (just relocated to the edge of the intercooler.

Bob
or similar to the E36 M3 that moves the duct intakes inboard...

I agree with Cav though, the real challenge is connecting the intake side to the output side, the tube in between isn't going to be easy. It can't be placed inside the fenderwell unless it comes in high and points down, and that's a long convoluted path. Between the fenderwell and the engine is pretty tight, I think the only option there is a a large section flat duct (tall and thin), but even then, it's common to see the accessory drive pulley rubbing on the fender liner...
 

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While searching for parts to pull this all together you might want to look over the aluminum air hose bulkhead ends from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty.

These are rolled alum duct fittings offering you a finished edge or lip to rivet to the bumper cover for example. They are offered in many sizes from about 1" to over 3" diameter.

AS&S also carrys CAT and SCAT ducting for your needs.

The most difficult part of this will likely be the mounting of the hose at the INSIDE of the rotor at the hub. Right where suspension and CV boots all converge.

Good luck.
 

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if you are using this for a track car, you don't need the windshield washer sprayer. Pull that bitch out, save weight, gain access and route all night long.
Keep in mind a few things, the rotor is what needs the most cooling. Routing the hose the the center back of the rotor is the most efficient way to increase cooling, not along the "spine" of the rotor. The corvette does however just release air into the fenderwell hoping it makes it's way to the brakes. On the C6, this produced lift, but when tested with smaller ducts, the brakes became soft and faded dramatically. This was tested on Nurburgring. I guess any ducting is better than none.
Post results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
On my previous car, I had 3" flex hose that went down to 2" radiator hose. This was then zip tied to the A arm. The outlet then blew at the base of the caliper. It was not the best design, but it worked pretty damn good.

Getting the air at the sides of the intercooler would be good, accept there's absolutely no room to run a hose from there to anywhere.

I'm probably going to be running this under the car to avoid the engine accesories, but connected VERY tightly to the frame of the car. Yes, this will be to decrease brake fade on the track, but the car will still be used for the street. I'm thinking about removing the windshield washer resevoir, but move the pump to the back of the car and tie into my resevoir for my water injection. Then I'lll just run windsheild washer fluid all year around.

I'm gonna start working on this sometime in the next month or two. I just do LOTS of research and bounce ideas off of other peoples heads before I start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
machc5 said:
Installing the SRT-4 Brakeman Kit tomorrow.
It's not supposed to need "No stinking ducts"

Brake cooling ducts are kinda like a big intercooler on our car. Is it needed? Not really. Will it help? Definately.

No matter what brakes you have, brake cooling ducts are ALWAYS a nice addition.


I'm not a fan on big brake kits at all. Unless you upgrade the fronts, rears, and the master cylinder then the entire system won't be quit as balanced as the factory system. You'd be amazed what a nice set of pads, fluid, and cooling ducts will do for the factory brake system.
 

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"I'm not a fan on big brake kits at all. Unless you upgrade the fronts, rears, and the master cylinder then the entire system won't be quit as balanced as the factory system. You'd be amazed what a nice set of pads, fluid, and cooling ducts will do for the factory brake system."


While your position is fine- not everybody needs or wants a BBK, your further comment is quite untrue in many, many respects.

You do NOT need to upgrade both ends of the car to benefit from a BBK.
You do NOT need to upgrade both ends to keep bias correct.
You do NOT need to change MC to accomodate a BBK.

I can appreciate the fact that pads, fluid and cooling ducts will enhance the factory brakes too. But please don't make such blanket statements on other items unless you really know what you speak of.
 
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