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I haven't gotten around to boost leak test the car yet but I have a catch can hoke up from the driver side if the vc, well the pvc hose has cracks and it has oil on it, im wondering if this vacuum leak can cause my cars throttle to stick, I just replaced the tps wiring, it idles better but its still sticking sometimes and only way to get unstuck is to rev up the engine, could a vacuum/boost leak cause this?
 

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So my cars been in a pain in the butt over the past 2 weeks. I had iffy boost so i ran a boost leak test. found 2 leaks and fixed them. Now when i do runs ill get different boost settings on different runs. 3rd gear seems to do the best always making 10-15 but 2nd and 4th make anywhere from 8-15. its confusing. IDK what could be wrong.
 

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im not sure if i have boost leak but car sputers when boost is around 10-15psi . looked under hood and found a small red hose thing not plugged into anything.. no clue where it should be plugged into.
I had a red tube (inlet pressure?) where the rubber connector was torn.
Took it to the Dodge dealership and they didn't even try to look up the original part, they just made a connector right there on the spot with a piece of rubber tube that slides onto the red tube, a ribbed plastic connector, and another piece of tube that fit onto the nipple on the cold side of intake right under the sensor with the wire coming out. (sorry for run-on sentence)
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Since I've upgraded to 1025cc injectors and Duster's tunes, my car has been running great, but I do notice something I've yet to figure out. I'm running 100% E85, by the way, on stock turbo and Mopar BOV. First, in partial throttle, once the boost gets past around 10 PSI, there's a whining sound, like from a turbo deisel. It runs fine, but I just notice this whooshing air sound. The other thing I notice is, in WOT, the boost jumps up to around 20, then drops, then goes back up before the usual steady drop to 15 near redline. I thought this was a boost leak issue, so I did a boost leak test, and found a couple of leak spots that I fixed, but the main leak seemed to be from the Mopar BOV, no matter how many times I keyed the ignition to the ON position. I also double checked the turbo outlet connection, to make sure it wasn't coming from there. I suspect that this is my problem, but wanted to run it by some others, because I've heard if it was installed right from the beginning, it should be fine, and this has not been an issue in the past (it's been on the car for a couple of years). The bolts are still plenty tight. Sorry this is so long, but I was trying to anticipate follow up questions.
 

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I have a boost leak from my hot side pipe/intercooler connector area, but its not coming from the clamp it seems higher up in the actual intercooler. Could there be an actual crack in it??
 

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Is it possible that having a boost leak causes your boost gauge to go to around 25 psi at WOT? The gauge says it's producing it but the car is slower then it was before it started happening.
 

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so ive read through this thread. my car runs about 14 psi until about 5500 than drops off to about 12 at redline. is that a boost leak or is it similar to horse power peaking a little before redline
 

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so ive read through this thread. my car runs about 14 psi until about 5500 than drops off to about 12 at redline. is that a boost leak or is it similar to horse power peaking a little before redline
Perfectly normal, Junior.
 

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Ok got a question, i am totally broke at the moment but i might can get the supplies later to do the boost leak test.
With that said i have a 04 all stage3 mopar with toys, and a AEM SRI, ok at idle to 15psi no leak, at 15psi a whining leak, i read the first 10 pages and two people confirmed the WGA being the problem.
Anyone else to confirm this issue? or any way to tell without the leak tester? Any help is appreciated...Thanks
 

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Boost leak test will be the best option cuz you can find leaks where you might've thought it was fine. I had the same whining sound at high psi a few weeks ago and it turns out that a bolt on the engine ripped a hole in the hot side pipe close to the i/c. It was just wear and tear overtime. This is one of a million possibilities but you could check it out.
 

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ok i need to know step by step what to plug off, i do have the blue plate and ive heard that will not allow you to pressurize the sytem, if this is true then how do you block it off?
 

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Hey guys I have an issue.... I have a boost leak tester that I bought from modern. I plugged the one air intake hose with an extension then left the valve cover breather opened. When I try and pressurize the system nothing happens (boost gauge does not even move) I don't know if I'm missing a simple step but if someone could help I'd appreciate it. I'm using a compressor for the test and I can hear the air going in. When my car is running I spike around 14 then fall to 10lbs at redline. Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys!!
 

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Hey guys I have an issue.... I have a boost leak tester that I bought from modern. I plugged the one air intake hose with an extension then left the valve cover breather opened. When I try and pressurize the system nothing happens (boost gauge does not even move) I don't know if I'm missing a simple step but if someone could help I'd appreciate it. I'm using a compressor for the test and I can hear the air going in. When my car is running I spike around 14 then fall to 10lbs at redline. Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys!!

Either you have a massive leak, or you're using a shitty compressor. My 6-gal./150 psi does fine for me. Your boost levels are fine and normal. What do you have the regulator set on? I usually have it set on 25 psi for shits and giggles. You usually want to test 5 psi over what you intend to spike. You should be able to hear that massive leak.
 

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Thanks for the input. I realized later that day that it was the actual nozzle on the compressor that wasn't functioning.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
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