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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's been a while since I've seen a discussion about what oils everyone runs in 2021, so what do you guys use? I'm considering switching to high mileage full synthetic from Valvoline or Mobil 1 since my engine has 100K+ miles on it. I know that high mileage is thicker oil, so would that be best to run on these cars?
 

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It's been a while since I've seen a discussion about what oils everyone runs in 2021, so what do you guys use? I'm considering switching to high mileage full synthetic from Valvoline or Mobil 1 since my engine has 100K+ miles on it. I know that high mileage is thicker oil, so would that be best to run on these cars?
M1 10W30 since 0 miles.

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I run Mobil 1 0W-40 since 2004 and 6K miles.
The PVO aka SRT guys (Ethan, Doc, Unique Twin et al)
ran it in the Extreme Light Weight (ELW) factory car.
No complaint from me about it.

A veritible googleplex of discussions here about what oil to run LOL.
 

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stock original engine - run what's recommended
built motor - run what the engine builder recommends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I run Mobil 1 0W-40 since 2004 and 6K miles.
The PVO aka SRT guys (Ethan, Doc, Unique Twin et al)
ran it in the Extreme Light Weight (ELW) factory car.
No complaint from me about it.

A veritible googleplex of discussions here about what oil to run LOL.
I've been runnning 5w-30 since I had the car. Do I stick with a 5w-30 oil or can I switch and do I have to do an oil change to do so?
 

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I've been runnning 5w-30 since I had the car. Do I stick with a 5w-30 oil or can I switch and do I have to do an oil change to do so?
Thats up to you. Ive ran 10w30, people run all kinds of weights of oil. I have no oil pressure issues. are you chasing a problem?

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I personally run Mobile 1 0w40.

While some people state to run what the manufacturer recommends, there is some grey area here with the SRT4. Allegedly, the car was first released recommending 10w30. However, this was not the oil used in the vehicle for EPA gas mileage testing. Some rules (idk what rule, references lost) said that they had to recommend 5w30 because that's what they used in their testing.

So, the engineers originally recommended 10w30 but changed that later on due to the ability to advertise better gas mileages with 5w30.

Personal anecdote:

When I first got the car, I ran Mobil 1 5w30 as recommended. My oil level was a little low on one very hot day while the expressway was shut down due to protests. I experienced oil pressure issues (oil pressure < 5 psi at idle). Switching over to 10w30 appears to have prevented this situation from occurring again.

I've now switched to 0w40 as a decision deriving from my research on the differences between 10w30 and 0w40. I could not be happier. I would recommend you consider looking into these two oil weights as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thats up to you. Ive ran 10w30, people run all kinds of weights of oil. I have no oil pressure issues. are you chasing a problem?

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No. Mainly just wanting to know which is the best to run over time, especially on a high mileage engine. I have had issues with leaking so I wonder if going 10w-30 with high mileage synthetic would help.
 

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It would really depend on where you are leaking from, and honestly engine oil weight with full synthetic isn't going to make a lot of difference once the engine is warmed up. If you are dripping little bits of oil from the intercooler coupling under the air cleaner, that's just normal if you aren't using an aftermarket catch can to deal with "blow by". (I know, blow by may not be the 100% correct term, it's kind of my catch all for oil that escapes the engine from anywhere other than gaskets/seals). I've used 5W30 Mobile 1 fully synthetic since the car was new, religiously changed the oil myself every 3,000 miles, and it's worked wonderfully.

Engine quality and seals quality is much higher than it was even 25 years ago, mechanics used to say that the full synthetic engine oils lack the ability to cause seals to "swell", because they don't absorb into the materials the same way as traditional oils used to, but a lot of mechanics today say that's a bunch of BS. I tend to think there is a difference because I tried years ago to run full synthetic in my turbo Lebaron, which already had little leaks, and it was way way worse. Whether that is because synthetic is that much slicker, or if it has something to do with the actual seals, no idea. That's just what I experienced.

Before you go about changing the oil you use, check the gaskets all around. Valve cover gaskets, pan gaskets, oil cooler gasket, etc. Sometimes it is as simple as pulling a pan/cover and replacing a gasket to stop leaks. I thought my rear main went out on my car, right after I installed my new transmission, so I had to pull the transmission again, even purchased the rear seal, only to find this:

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior

You'd think I'd have noticed that when I pulled the transmission, but I wasn't looking for it, as dumb as that sound. That right there was caused by a dealership at 34,500 miles, doing warranty work, and somehow entirely failing to get the pan bolts tight. Within 1000 miles I remember it started a tiny leak, and it had gradually gotten worse, little by little. I'd honestly swear someone had gotten in there and taken them out based on how badly it leaked after replacing the transmission, but that's not really possible without pulling the H-brace and other parts (car sat for 3 years with a busted tranny).

If you can find where you are leaking that's the best way to take care of issues. If you know it's the rear main, and you don't have the time, tools, $$, and/or patience, perhaps the high mileage would work for you. I don't know how many people have tried high mileage in SRT4s. Maybe others can weigh in.
 

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No. Mainly just wanting to know which is the best to run over time, especially on a high mileage engine. I have had issues with leaking so I wonder if going 10w-30 with high mileage synthetic would help.
High Mileage has increased zinc to help lubricity, which aids older engines with less than perfect bearing clearances. as long as you have good pressure, they should work.

lol @ worrying about gas mileage in a SRT.

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
High Mileage has increased zinc to help lubricity, which aids older engines with less than perfect bearing clearances. as long as you have good pressure, they should work.

lol @ worrying about gas mileage in a SRT.

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Gas mileage in an SRT is irrelevant at any given point
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It would really depend on where you are leaking from, and honestly engine oil weight with full synthetic isn't going to make a lot of difference once the engine is warmed up. If you are dripping little bits of oil from the intercooler coupling under the air cleaner, that's just normal if you aren't using an aftermarket catch can to deal with "blow by". (I know, blow by may not be the 100% correct term, it's kind of my catch all for oil that escapes the engine from anywhere other than gaskets/seals). I've used 5W30 Mobile 1 fully synthetic since the car was new, religiously changed the oil myself every 3,000 miles, and it's worked wonderfully.

Engine quality and seals quality is much higher than it was even 25 years ago, mechanics used to say that the full synthetic engine oils lack the ability to cause seals to "swell", because they don't absorb into the materials the same way as traditional oils used to, but a lot of mechanics today say that's a bunch of BS. I tend to think there is a difference because I tried years ago to run full synthetic in my turbo Lebaron, which already had little leaks, and it was way way worse. Whether that is because synthetic is that much slicker, or if it has something to do with the actual seals, no idea. That's just what I experienced.

Before you go about changing the oil you use, check the gaskets all around. Valve cover gaskets, pan gaskets, oil cooler gasket, etc. Sometimes it is as simple as pulling a pan/cover and replacing a gasket to stop leaks. I thought my rear main went out on my car, right after I installed my new transmission, so I had to pull the transmission again, even purchased the rear seal, only to find this:

View attachment 148109

You'd think I'd have noticed that when I pulled the transmission, but I wasn't looking for it, as dumb as that sound. That right there was caused by a dealership at 34,500 miles, doing warranty work, and somehow entirely failing to get the pan bolts tight. Within 1000 miles I remember it started a tiny leak, and it had gradually gotten worse, little by little. I'd honestly swear someone had gotten in there and taken them out based on how badly it leaked after replacing the transmission, but that's not really possible without pulling the H-brace and other parts (car sat for 3 years with a busted tranny).

If you can find where you are leaking that's the best way to take care of issues. If you know it's the rear main, and you don't have the time, tools, $$, and/or patience, perhaps the high mileage would work for you. I don't know how many people have tried high mileage in SRT4s. Maybe others can weigh in.
I just did an oil pan gasket swap and it appears to be leaking a bit still. I'm still thinking it's the front seal because it looks like it is being flung around the engine bay and beneath it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That must be a good leak.

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It drips just a bit. Not much that I have to add oil to it every week or anything. Just annoying because it makes parking it in the garage a challenge so I don't stain the floor really. I do really want to get it fixed and I wonder if switching to 10w-30 high mileage oil would at least slow it down a bit.
 

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It drips just a bit. Not much that I have to add oil to it every week or anything. Just annoying because it makes parking it in the garage a challenge so I don't stain the floor really. I do really want to get it fixed and I wonder if switching to 10w-30 high mileage oil would at least slow it down a bit.
no, i dont think it would

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It's possible it would. A trick with old trucks was to increase oil weight after they started leaking. Increased oil weight is not the fix for damaged seals though. Replacing the seal is.
 

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It's possible it would. A trick with old trucks was to increase oil weight after they started leaking. Increased oil weight is not the fix for damaged seals though. Replacing the seal is.
lol, yeah but old trucks used leather seals and 50 weight oil..

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lol, yeah but old trucks used leather seals and 50 weight oil..

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We used to do it with conventional oil in 80s and early 90s cars. That being said, I'd also be worried about oil travel to places like the turbo and oil cooler. I don't know if it ever trickled down to the SRT4, but I know the SRT8 models actually started recommending a 0W40 oil around 2008 (if my memory serves me correctly), and one of the dealerships in California was trying to tell me I needed to buy it. At that time the 0 weight was like twice as expensive, and I wasn't exactly rolling in money so I declined and changed my own oil with the 5W30
 

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We used to do it with conventional oil in 80s and early 90s cars. That being said, I'd also be worried about oil travel to places like the turbo and oil cooler. I don't know if it ever trickled down to the SRT4, but I know the SRT8 models actually started recommending a 0W40 oil around 2008 (if my memory serves me correctly), and one of the dealerships in California was trying to tell me I needed to buy it. At that time the 0 weight was like twice as expensive, and I wasn't exactly rolling in money so I declined and changed my own oil with the 5W30
I once owned a BMW, they said i needed to change the oil once a year.... I didnt listen, but the previous owner did holy gunk.

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