[OG Neon]

Right now i have the progress rear sway bar and soon I will have the front bar. But anyways i love turns alot, and the outside of my tires are wearing significantly faster then the rest (and a few auto x help add to that). So i was thinking of going to the dealership and have them add a degree of negative camber on all four corners. I figure doing that should help even out my tire wear. What do you guys think? is -1degree to much camber or not enough?

 

[FordTraitor]

It's definitely not too much. It's not enough if you want to autocross seriously. I'm not sure that you can even get you -1.0 degrees without camber plates, coilovers, or die-grinding slots in the top hole of the stock strut housings (I'm not sure how much you can get with the cam bolts, but I personally don't like them because they are weaker than the stock bolts). Anyway, I think that most dealerships wouldn't do it anyway. Unless they are cool, they will tell you that the numbers you are asking for are not the specified alignment parameters. You will probably have to go to a private alignment shop (most of the franchise chains shops will say the same thing as the dealership). I'm running -2.3 up front, and don't see any problem with tire wear. In fact, I'm going to increase it to -3.0 for the track.

 

[OG Neon]

thanks for the help. Will i notice a difference with a degree of camber? Or should i go a little more. I'll see how much the dealership will let me.

 

[SRT-4 Neon]

i know i want to fix the camber in the back badly...my rear tire wear is killing me as I drive high speed so much. adding to performance on the track will be a nice benefit as well..

C

 

[Advans]

My car is dropped on Eibachs. Today at work, i fixed my camber on the rear of my car. (I'm the alignment tech at my job). Anywho, when i had my current specifications, it was showing a -1.5 on both rear tires. Got some ecentric cam bolts, and now have it perfect. I wouldn't mind running more negative camber on my car for better handleing purposes, but my tires are $270.00 a piece. Need them to last a while.(BTW, there 245-40-17 Yokahama Advan's)

 

[OG Neon]

Advansrt, seeing how you are an alignment tech, is there enough play in the stock suspension to give me a degree or more of camber all around?

 

[Advans]

No. You need Camber esentric bolts to get ANY Positive, or negative adjustments. There cheap parts.

 

[OG Neon]

where can i find these bolts at? Will the dealership have them.

 

[funks]

SPC Performance 81250 for the rear, SPC Performance 81260 for the front..

call up spc performance so that they may tell you what stores in your area stocks em.

 

[OG Neon]

whats SPC performance and how do i contact them?

 

[Mopar211]

Slot the struts and you can get pretty much anything streetable out of them. I set mine with a level after the spring install and they were pretty close when I took it in. Im running - .6 on the street only and its not enough (outside edge still wearing prematurely). I've got enough travel to get -1.5 and Im going a little over -1 when I realign. The back is like -.4 I think, and wear is great so far (~6000 miles) I too do not like the crash bolts, but to each his own. Some performance struts and coil overs are slotted, and its the best way to get the camber IMO except camber plates.
Justin

 

[99R/T-SRT]

Whats wrong with the camber bolts? I have 4 on my R/T and they work fine. I drive >100 MPH daily (i live in germany) and for extended periods of time. No problems, I also Autox my car.

 

[funks]

http://www.spcperformance.com/

 

[FineTuner]

I just put the Goldline camber bolts from Modern Performance in the front and was able to get 2.0 degrees. A helpful hint is that you need to put them in the bottom rather than the top as suggested by the intstructions. If you put them in the top you will hit the strut before getting to the max adjustment of the bolts and end up with about -1.5 or so. With them in the bottom you can get the -2.0, but you have to nip the tong off the washer so it can rotate properly. Once the bolt is in and set to the max setting, all that you need to do is push the whole thing inwards as hard as you can and tighten it down and you'll be pretty darn close to 2 degrees. I'm taking my car to Grattan (road course in Grand Rapids Michigan) this Friday which is why I'm setting it up this way, but I plan to leave it a 2.0 for the street as well.

 

[OG Neon]

do you have any pics on what it looks like with a -2 degree camber? Thanks for that helpful hints.

 

[FineTuner]

do you have any pics on what it looks like with a -2 degree camber? Thanks for that helpful hints.

I'm going to take some shots when I head to Grattan this Firday and I'll PM a few to you when I get back. If your concerned about the negative camber looking a bit goofy ... well it dosen't! The car actually looks very aggressive :eveilgrin with the 2.0 setting ... I like it alot. :2thumbsup

 

[Mopar211]

Whats wrong with the camber bolts? I have 4 on my R/T and they work fine. I drive >100 MPH daily (i live in germany) and for extended periods of time. No problems, I also Autox my car.

I just don't like the fact that the bolt is smaller than stock. I feel that the engineers designed it with that size bolt for a certain reason (not that we listen to the engineers anyway :rofl: ). Like I said, to each his own, and I've never heard of a camber bolt failure. Slotting your struts is free, and Im cheap, so I slotted mine.
Justin

 

[OG Neon]

I'm going to take some shots when I head to Grattan this Firday and I'll PM a few to you when I get back. If your concerned about the negative camber looking a bit goofy ... well it dosen't! The car actually looks very aggressive :eveilgrin with the 2.0 setting ... I like it alot. :2thumbsup

Thanks....i too think a car with negitive camber looks awesome and mean as hell. I am just curious what our car looks like with the setup. thanks again for the help and good luck at the auto x. With this car i already have a first place finish and a second place finish...and thats with just a rear sway...can't wait to go up to a move aggressive class.

 

[GOTNEON]

How about these

Tire Rack sells Eibach Align kits that replace top bolts and adjust 1.75 +/-

Also sells another brand that costs a bit more I think...Ingalls Fastcam bolt's... adjust 2.0 +/-


Was wondering if Ingalls bolts are any better than Eibach's? 2.0 +/- would be better I think with Ingalls, but twice the price I think since you replace the top and bottom bolts to get 2.0


Also, do you have to do the back struts too with align bolts or can you leave stock? Tire wear is perfect in rear. Need negative camber BAD in front... outer half of tires wear bad and go blad as inner half of tires stay new. Happening on both sides equally in front. Any thoughts???????????

 

[Advans]

Tire Rack sells Eibach Align kits that replace top bolts and adjust 1.75 +/-

Also sells another brand that costs a bit more I think...Ingalls Fastcam bolt's... adjust 2.0 +/-


Was wondering if Ingalls bolts are any better than Eibach's? 2.0 +/- would be better I think with Ingalls, but twice the price I think since you replace the top and bottom bolts to get 2.0


Also, do you have to do the back struts too with align bolts or can you leave stock? Tire wear is perfect in rear. Need negative camber BAD in front... outer half of tires wear bad and go blad as inner half of tires stay new. Happening on both sides equally in front. Any thoughts???????????

Hey, what drop do you have on your car? If it is drop, you might not be able to tell if the rear is out just by looking at it from the rear, which in your case, the rear tires are wearing fine. About the front, you say you need more negative camber... Question, do you take turns real hard and fast? this will lead to out edge wear. And you say the front tires in the middle are new. A couple of things can cause this(A) to much air pressure in the tires, will make it kind of slope down in the center of the tread. (B) hard fast cornering.
As for what bolts to go with, it really depends on how much the drop is. IMO, i would get the one with the most negative and positive corrections. The reason i say this, is that struts go bad quit guickly, (especially if it is lower than the factor recommendation on stock struts) over time, your camber very well could even go out even more negative, or positive. So if this ever happens, you will always have that "little" bit more of adjustment to correct the problem.


Hope you understand this. :lol: any more questions, PM me. I'll be more than happy to help.

(Srry for the long post, just trying to help)