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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just pulled the alternator....Dam this job sucks!

Pulled it out the bottom through the axle hole. But heck this was worst alternator job I've had.

I heard of pulling it off the top...which didn't look feasible even with the valve cover off. Heat shields, etc....still dam!

I may test it soon since I need to replace the valve cover gasket anyways. But the firewall lip look to close to call.

The other part was removing the "mid" axle....forget what it's called again....but you loose tyranny oil! You have to remove it to clear the alternator!

Seems up top may be the route to go next time if I keep this Neon.

Note to all if your replacing the alternator from below...it would be a good time to replace all parts mentioned above while your at it.

Oh not to mention I received a alternator with a bent pulley....so make sure you compare yours against a rebuilt one and check for issues. I'm glad I caught that before installing it. Received a replacement and it looks New! Fingers crossed 馃
 

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Just pulled the alternator....Dam this job sucks!

Pulled it out the bottom through the axle hole. But heck this was worst alternator job I've had.

I heard of pulling it off the top...which didn't look feasible even with the valve cover off. Heat shields, etc....still dam!

I may test it soon since I need to replace the valve cover gasket anyways. But the firewall lip look to close to call.

The other part was removing the "mid" axle....forget what it's called again....but you loose tyranny oil! You have to remove it to clear the alternator!

Seems up top may be the route to go next time if I keep this Neon.

Note to all if your replacing the alternator from below...it would be a good time to replace all parts mentioned above while your at it.

Oh not to mention I received a alternator with a bent pulley....so make sure you compare yours against a rebuilt one and check for issues. I'm glad I caught that before installing it. Received a replacement and it looks New! Fingers crossed
comes out the exhaust tunnel easiest.

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I never really had much issue getting mine out, but i also dont have the stock turbo and heat shields or cat or coolant bottle....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I finally tested and confirmed it does fit with the valve cover removed, heat shield removed, and coolant tank removed. It might clear the heat shield but I didn't have one.

On one pic below there is a green zip tie covering some tape on a line. What line is that?

Also needed a new coolant tank. Old one was cracked and leaking. But I noticed the new one doesn't have a felt material behind the foil shield like the stock one. So the shield may be useless against the plastic tank. Going to slide in some heat resistant material in there.

Also see the pic of the turbo manifold shield. Is this the only spot that needs cutting to clear the wastgate? I'm a big advocate for heat shields. I even installed the heat shield on the alternator since it was missing!

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RE: "Also see the pic of the turbo manifold shield. Is this the only spot that needs cutting to clear the wastgate? I'm a big advocate for heat shields. I even installed the heat shield on the alternator since it was missing! ".
You appear to have an aftermarkey WGA so that's possibly why you needed to trim the heat shield.
I had to trim mine a little when I installed the S3R WGA.

RE: "On one pic below there is a green zip tie covering some tape on a line. What line is that? "
Not sure what the green zip-tie is all about in the thied picture because I don't know what is at the other end of it. But if I were to hazard a guess, it's possibly rhe remnains of the black OEM pressure line that used to go to the stock WGA. Again, you have an aftermarket WGA shown in the fourth picture and the pressure line connected to it seems quite different (metal?) from the OEM line, possibly because someone decided to run the WGA pressure source off the manifold instead of using the OEM green then black lines from the #2 solenoid which may have been removed, again, I can't tell from these picture. So it seems you may not be running PCM controlled boost? I'm a big fan of running the stock vacuum/pressure lines and using the PCM to control boost.
 

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The green zip tie is holding a piece of tape on the elbow for the evap system to the fuel tank. you may have a bad elbow and they ziptied it.


the car looks like its got a AGP actuator. i had to cut my shield when i put mine on.


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