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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, I plan on tuning the car tomorrow and I am looking for some target A/F ratios to tune for. For example...

1) Idle. I've been told 14.7:1

2) Cruising. Say 2000 rpms or so.

3) WOT

Any others that you think I should tune for. I'll be using an emanage so if you have any pointers here I would appreciate it. I am planning on using the "airflow adjustment" to take out fuel and the "add injector" map to add fuel. As far as I know, those are the only maps I'll be using.
 

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silverscooby said:
Alright, I plan on tuning the car tomorrow and I am looking for some target A/F ratios to tune for. For example...

1) Idle. I've been told 14.7:1

2) Cruising. Say 2000 rpms or so.

3) WOT

Any others that you think I should tune for. I'll be using an emanage so if you have any pointers here I would appreciate it. I am planning on using the "airflow adjustment" to take out fuel and the "add injector" map to add fuel. As far as I know, those are the only maps I'll be using.
Idle- the car will want to be at 14.7
Cruising- same 14.7 if there is no load on the car you doing a steady speed, no matter the rpm.
WOT- you should try and keep it in the 11's to be safe!

Once again, you shouldnt need to use the "airflow adjustment" map at all.
You should only need to use the "add injector" map and maybe the "boost limiter cut", but only if your map sensor output voltage gets to high.
I havent had to use that feature yet either, boosting 22psi, its never reached 4 volts because of the injector correction feature working.
 

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you will have vertually No control over partial throttle A/F. Its just not a vertual enough logic to program that. I really wish you conld (maybe some day) tell it to stay at XX.XA/F at throttle/boost ratio or similar. WOT and idle (and not even so much idle) are the only real areas you have control over. At partial throttle the ECU is Still going to lean it out as you add it in with the eman. There-for still not getting the fuel you disire.
 

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BlueSRT404 said:
Idle- the car will want to be at 14.7
Cruising- same 14.7 if there is no load on the car you doing a steady speed, no matter the rpm.
WOT- you should try and keep it in the 11's to be safe!

Once again, you shouldnt need to use the "airflow adjustment" map at all.
You should only need to use the "add injector" map and maybe the "boost limiter cut", but only if your map sensor output voltage gets to high.
I havent had to use that feature yet either, boosting 22psi, its never reached 4 volts because of the injector correction feature working.

:werd:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Eric, on your add injector maps what are you reading off of for the left hand column? Are you using the car's pressure sensor or the Greddy pressure sensor. I have the greddy sensor activated in "parameters" but I just nticed that in my add injector map, that it is reading off of the car's pressure sensor.

I can of course, change it to the Greddy sensor in the map but the numbers change on the left hand column.

I'm just curious which one you're using when you tuned you add injector map and if it made a difference.
 

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silverscooby said:
Eric, on your add injector maps what are you reading off of for the left hand column? Are you using the car's pressure sensor or the Greddy pressure sensor. I have the greddy sensor activated in "parameters" but I just nticed that in my add injector map, that it is reading off of the car's pressure sensor.

I can of course, change it to the Greddy sensor in the map but the numbers change on the left hand column.

I'm just curious which one you're using when you tuned you add injector map and if it made a difference.
At the top of my "add injector" map it says, Greddy sensor (V)
Thats the one Im tuning off of. Did you get the optional pressure sensor harness to connect between the emange and the e-o1? You'll need that for the emanage to use the e-o1's sensor.

In the left column, I have to start adding fuel around 2.5v @ 3k rpm and up. Most of my tuning is done in the 2.7, 2.9 and 3.10 boxes all the way across.
3.10 is about 22 psi, Ive never boosted over 22psi and Ive never seen it in the 3.20 box's (not yet anyway)

What I mean by seeing it in the boxes........
Go out and data log a WOT run in 2nd or 3rd or both, roads permitting. Then stop and play it back, during play, pause it, scroll to a point where you need to add fuel (WOT, under boost, w/high a/r) when paused, jump over to the "add injector" map and you will see one box blinking, that is where you were during that spot in the data log, click the blinking box and add fuel!
Then go back to the play screen and scroll some more to find where you need fuel and repeat the process!

There, you just had Eric's emanage 101 class!
Im not saying its perfect or you should do it my way, I dont want to be responceable if you blow your car up, but it works for me!
Be safe and watch you a/r! :thumbsup:
 

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robino said:
my question is:

once you tune the car...to the proper A/F ratio.
what happens when you disconnect the battery? does it go back to "default"? or is there some sort of a clamp that holds that mode.
The emange has a memory and will not loose your settings.
Im still messing around with tuning mine and havent had any problems with it forgetting my settings. Some day when Im done tuning it, I will figure out how to save the "tune" onto the card. I think you can have more then one "tune" on the card and switch between them, but I havent figured that out yet either. :rofl:
 

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at idle, my AEM EUGO wideband o2 controller gauge reads bouncing around 15s/16s. at WOT thru all the gears it ends up at 12.1:1 a/f ratio. Still rich, correct? i was told i COULD go to 12.5:1 MAX but thats the very most i should go, but staying under it would be safe:) how is that?
 

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i like my car in the mid 11's. i like my pistons just where they are too. the car does get real fat at the top of 4th and into 5th at 11:1ish. but all of third is mid 11 as well as 2nd.
 

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I am kinda confused here,

If you have the Profec E-01 and connect it via USB to the emanage, doesn't the emanage talk to the E-01 and is able to get the pressure info from the E-01 ?

why would you then need another harness to connect to the E-01 ?
 

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robino said:
my question is:

once you tune the car...to the proper A/F ratio.
what happens when you disconnect the battery? does it go back to "default"? or is there some sort of a clamp that holds that mode.
turning off of resetting the ecu doesn't matter. The correction info is stored in the e-manage..

There car runs in either open loop, or closed loop.. In closed loop (idling, cruising) - you won't be able to do a thing as the ecu will also go for stoich (14.7 afr).

Hence, only during WOT will you be able to really modify the fuel curve (when the system goes open loop and uses the fuel timing lookup tables).
 

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FastAttack said:
I am kinda confused here,

If you have the Profec E-01 and connect it via USB to the emanage, doesn't the emanage talk to the E-01 and is able to get the pressure info from the E-01 ?

why would you then need another harness to connect to the E-01 ?
The USB connected between the two is so the e-o1 can control the emanage and change settings/programing and so on.
The pressure sensor harness is a 3 wire harness that also connects between the e-o1 and the emanage.
Its job is to send the e-o1's pressure sensor signal to the emanage, if you want to use the e-o1's sensor to tune the fuel maps.
 

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FastAttack said:
I am kinda confused here,

If you have the Profec E-01 and connect it via USB to the emanage, doesn't the emanage talk to the E-01 and is able to get the pressure info from the E-01 ?

why would you then need another harness to connect to the E-01 ?
By default, the e-manage is limited to reading off the stock map sensor.. Considering it's doesn't read past 17 psi, in order to add more fuel for higher boost - you'll either have to buy the e-manage 3 bar sensor, or if you have an e-01, buy the proper cable to hook it up to the e-manage (aka e-01 optional pressure sensor cable).. Then you can click the [x] use greddy pressure sensor button (which makes it available as a load source).

Pressure info doesn't travel through USB (although RPM can from the e-manage -> e-01 for logging purposes).
 

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How about partial throttle ramp up? (robertk states he see's high AFRs under this condition)..

PSI-FI states add fuel in the powerpaq for partial throttle ramp-up conditions, i'm not sure how they are able to do that.

Can such a thing be done using the AIRFLOW ADJUSTMENT MAP?

I'm thinking one can add fuel between (via higher MAP voltage) @ 35-70% throttle (as anything above 70% (WOT) will go open loop) at -20 vacuum -> X psi.

What happens when two maps overlap? As in there's some settings in the add injector maps, along with the airflow adjustment map?

Does this make sense?
 

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funks said:
By default, the e-manage is limited to reading off the stock map sensor.. Considering it's doesn't read past 17 psi, in order to add more fuel for higher boost - you'll either have to buy the e-manage 3 bar sensor, or if you have an e-01, buy the proper cable to hook it up to the e-manage (aka e-01 optional pressure sensor cable).. Then you can click the [x] use greddy pressure sensor button (which makes it available as a load source).

Pressure info doesn't travel through USB (although RPM can from the e-manage -> e-01 for logging purposes).
ok thats what I thought :)

--edit so when you want to run stage 0 and big turbo..

and want to tune it for 24PSI then you should either get the map sensor or b use the cable and connect it to the E-01 hmm intresting.
 

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in NGC (2003+,) the heated o2 sensors are a standard xirconium dioxide oxygen sensor. it is a 0-1v voltage biased by the pcm +2.5volts to prevent open loop if the voltage falls negative
 
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