Do you hear the compressor kick on if you turn on the AC?
A/C doesn't work.. even after recharge
i had an srt4 engine swap done.. the A/C doesnt work at all, so i filled it up with 134a. The guage says its filled, but my A/C still doesn't work. Whats wrong?
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yea. but hot air comes outstevesquick92 said:Do you hear the compressor kick on if you turn on the AC?
Did you add refrigerant oil? From Service manual:
"After performing any refrigerant recovery or recycling operation, always replenish the refrigerant system with the same amount of the recommended refrigerant oil (ND-8 PAG R-134a refrigerant oil) as was removed. Too little refrigerant oil can cause compressor damage, and too much can reduce air conditioning system performance.
PAG refrigerant oil is much more hygroscopic than mineral oil, and will absorb any moisture it comes into contact with, even moisture in the air. The PAG oil container should always be kept tightly capped until it is ready to be used. After use, recap the oil container immediately to prevent moisture contamination."
Also, did you double check all the connections on the compressor, reciever/drier, condenser etc.? Also, check all the caps to make sure none are missing. You could possibly have filled it then it all leaked out before you had a chance to try it out. I would just double check everything, and make sure you add that refrigerant oil to keep your compressor from crapping out later.
"After performing any refrigerant recovery or recycling operation, always replenish the refrigerant system with the same amount of the recommended refrigerant oil (ND-8 PAG R-134a refrigerant oil) as was removed. Too little refrigerant oil can cause compressor damage, and too much can reduce air conditioning system performance.
PAG refrigerant oil is much more hygroscopic than mineral oil, and will absorb any moisture it comes into contact with, even moisture in the air. The PAG oil container should always be kept tightly capped until it is ready to be used. After use, recap the oil container immediately to prevent moisture contamination."
Also, did you double check all the connections on the compressor, reciever/drier, condenser etc.? Also, check all the caps to make sure none are missing. You could possibly have filled it then it all leaked out before you had a chance to try it out. I would just double check everything, and make sure you add that refrigerant oil to keep your compressor from crapping out later.
no.. i didnt add any. But i didnt have any caps for like 4 months.. i finally got them yesterday and recharged today. i'll check over the lines though.. cause there can always be a possibilty one didnt get connected during the swapstevesquick92 said:Did you add refrigerant oil? From Service manual:
"After performing any refrigerant recovery or recycling operation, always replenish the refrigerant system with the same amount of the recommended refrigerant oil (ND-8 PAG R-134a refrigerant oil) as was removed. Too little refrigerant oil can cause compressor damage, and too much can reduce air conditioning system performance.
PAG refrigerant oil is much more hygroscopic than mineral oil, and will absorb any moisture it comes into contact with, even moisture in the air. The PAG oil container should always be kept tightly capped until it is ready to be used. After use, recap the oil container immediately to prevent moisture contamination."
Also, did you double check all the connections on the compressor, reciever/drier, condenser etc.? Also, check all the caps to make sure none are missing. You could possibly have filled it then it all leaked out before you had a chance to try it out. I would just double check everything, and make sure you add that refrigerant oil to keep your compressor from crapping out later.
or that something got crushed, pinched, or broken.
Did you ever fix your A/C? I'm having the same problem since I did my swap a couple months ago.
also... the receiver/drier may need replaced. I read in the factory service manual that if it goes bad, or if the a/c system is removed from the car, that this will need replacing. Not sure if that's the answer, but it's worth looking in to.
haha i guess you found this thread nevermind then. lolrgsales2k said:Did you ever fix your A/C? I'm having the same problem since I did my swap a couple months ago.
i'm gunna try to take it into dodge so maybe they can see what the problem is. Whats a reciever/drier? so that way i can see if its bad and Oasis dodge wont rip me off.stevesquick92 said:also... the receiver/drier may need replaced. I read in the factory service manual that if it goes bad, or if the a/c system is removed from the car, that this will need replacing. Not sure if that's the answer, but it's worth looking in to.
did u vac the system before u added gas to it and what is the low and high side pressures
The receiver/drier is the aluminum oval looking cannister that all the ac solid lines run in to. Should have a cap on it and two solid lines running out of it. It sets in a rubber gromet over the pass/front tire in the engine bay. It's on the far left(passenger) side under the hood. Looks similar to a redbull can minus the color and a lot larger.
All the dryer does is remove moisture from the system (like a big packet of silica), the system will still work if it is bad. I would double check the compressor, make sure it is getting power when the A/C is on. If it has refrigerant in it, then it's not leaking. And since air is blowing, so it would have to be the compressor.
I'm doubting the drier is the cause, but in the Factory Service Manual, it states that the A/C system WILL NOT work if this part is bad.VanillaXtract said:All the dryer does is remove moisture from the system (like a big packet of silica), the system will still work if it is bad. I would double check the compressor, make sure it is getting power when the A/C is on. If it has refrigerant in it, then it's not leaking. And since air is blowing, so it would have to be the compressor.
I don't think it's the compressor. I've tried my stock compressor and the one that came with my SRT motor, same result with both. Unless they're both bad.VanillaXtract said:All the dryer does is remove moisture from the system (like a big packet of silica), the system will still work if it is bad. I would double check the compressor, make sure it is getting power when the A/C is on. If it has refrigerant in it, then it's not leaking. And since air is blowing, so it would have to be the compressor.
My A/C started blowing hot air before I did the swap at about 90k miles. I recharged the system after I did the swap and it was the same as before. Also recharged it again after swapping compressors, of course.
I've double checked all the hard lines, vacuum lines, switched out the solenoid, etc. and can't find anything out of whack.
Also, the compressor is cycling on and off like normal, so I know it's getting power.
As for the pressure switches, I don't know, I'm not very well educated on A/C systems, so I'll look further into that.
I thnk the next thing I'll try is the dryer.
I guess it couldn't hurt, maybe the system has some kind of sensor for a bad drier. They're only like $40. But if your compressor is kicking on, I would think that would be compressing the refrigerant no matter what.
Bump for an update ..I'm not getting power to the compressor metered it got nothing at the plug ...traced wire to fuse box looks solid ...unplugged the relay and I get power on the ports ..switched relays still got nothing ...need advice
check your pressure switches (when they are open it cuts power to the compressor)
and check for continuity between the relay pin and the connector
and check for continuity between the relay pin and the connector
Check the pressure switch. I have had a couple bad ones over the years. I unhooked the plug from the switch and jumped the wires together using a paper clip and the compressor came on. Don’t run it much longer then 10seconds as you can damage stuff. I always use a new dryer/accumulator and pull a vac on the system for a good 20 – 30mins if any lines are opened for repair. Also make sure there is no charge on the system before unbolting any of the lines when working on the a/c system. Some of the lines can have pretty high pressure on them. I have used high end tools years ago at work, but at home I actually use HF tools for A/C repair. They work very good for the price and amount of times I have used the now. Only problem I’ve had so far is getting the quick release on and off the high pressure side on my truck for some reason using this a/c manifold gauge set.
AC Gauges - Save on this AC Manifold Gauge Set
Vacuum Pump - AC Vacuum Pump w/ R134A & R12 Connectors
AC Gauges - Save on this AC Manifold Gauge Set
Vacuum Pump - AC Vacuum Pump w/ R134A & R12 Connectors
After reading through this thread... we don't have a receiver dryer in our cars. We have an accumulator since it is a txv system not orifice tube. And that accumulator should be replaced if the system is open to the atmosphere at all. One drop of water is enough to contaminate the refrigerant and the system won't operate. That's why you need such a long vacuum to make sure there's no water.
Also one more thing to check is the condenser, mine had a big hole in the front from a rock or something. I just removed the whole ac system though lol so much easier to work on the front of the engine with it gone
Also one more thing to check is the condenser, mine had a big hole in the front from a rock or something. I just removed the whole ac system though lol so much easier to work on the front of the engine with it gone
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