Well I have been a hair behind here on the SRT page but the end of January I decided I was going to have the 1g ready to drive down to GA on February 21st. Needless to say the car was no where near ready the transmission was disassembled, engine was disassembled, and I was working on some of the wiring in the car.
I had also cut the barbs off the oem SRT lines and welded them shut due to not running a water cooled turbo and I also fixed my bobble strut mount and reinforced it to prevent future tearing of the metal.
I stalled a DCR Steel Pivot ball after sending the brass ball back in for warranty.
I had the car completely reassembled and running on February 15th and ready for the road trip to Fort Stewart. On my travels to GA I blew my transmission out in Paducah, KY while it was raining and went to a local u pull for the replacement and had it swapped the next day in the hotel parking lot.
Now I have been sitting in GA for the last 3 weeks and I'll still be here for another 3 before I drive the car back up to MN
Fuel gauge is backwards due to running the 1g fuel canister on the SRT swap, oil pressure is a hit or miss faulty pressure switch, and check engine light is for up stream O2 heater circuit.
The car did end up making it back home from GA just fine and when I got home I had a package waiting with my new injector cover, coil cover, and fuse box plate so I got those all installed.
I ended up going back to GA for another 5 weeks to attend my ALC Course which is where I drew up plans for a new battery tray. I ended up about $20 bucks in materials and then about 2.5 hours measuring, bending, and welding up my own small battery tray to mount behind the bumper. This allowed me to remove my battery from the trunk of the car and pull all the 0 gauge wires out as well. I am still going to either paint the tray or spray under coating on it. Starting to get the car ready to go out to Michigan next week for N2K19.
Are you going to completely seal the battery to avoid issues with rain water, or just entirely avoid the rain? That close proximity to the tire I would think could lead to a LOT of water even with the splash guard?
Been a super busy year and gone alot but figured I should get the SRT Forums caught up on the progress with the car.
Earlier this year before heading out to N2K19 I decided to remove the muffler and e-cut out due to the e cut out motor malfunctioning and not wanting to open so I had just rigged up a make shift 3" axle back.
Next up are pictures from towing the car our to Michigan for N2K19 while out there went out to the track being my first time running the car in the 1/4 mile and being able to weigh the car coming in at 2625 with passenger seat removed, back seats removed, myself in the car, and 3/4 tank of gas. Posted the 3 time slips from the night out there, and was able to bring home back to back trophies.
After we got back home I was driving the car to work and the hood latch failed going about 60 mph. The hood came up smacking the windshield and the upper roof line, but I am kinda glad that I had all the bracing cut out and the MPx hood struts installed to slow the hood down otherwise I'm sure it could've caused more damage.
I have more to update but I'll let everyone check this out first so it's not over loaded.
Gotten behind on the updates here yet again but time to catch up.
I removed the cowl exit waste gate and reverted back to the AGP under car dump in prep for the new hood that took forever to receive.
Also being it was taking so long to receive the new hood and I ended up in Texas for 3 weeks for training I took the front bumper off so that I could get it repainted removing the scrapes/chips from crashing it, also decided to reinstall the side exit exhaust and ended up notching the side skirt more to tuck the tip up more for ground clearance and welded a bracket on to bolt up the exhaust and hold it in place. Got the repainted bumper I stalled back on the car as well.
Ended up with some minor issues pertaining to the radio so why not remove the radio and all the speakers, get a little weight reduction out of the car.
For track staging purposes I added an additional 2-step activation. I tied in a wire from the clutch switch and the current steering wheel switch to the brake with a disable switch. This will allow me to be able to apply the brake and keep the car in the 2 step while staging rather than only having the clutches down switch.
Ended up with the first major issue that I've had with the car in a long time and of course it'd be before I was heading out to an event just glad it didn't happen at the event. Doing a test pull on my way to work the car gave me one hell of a ride. Got the car loaded up taken home come to find out the car ripped the drivers front A arm mount apart from the K frame. Picked up a new K frame and swapped it in.
Next you will see tht my new hood came in finally I waited 3-4 months for it to arrive and it showed up the day that I was leaving to head out to Ice Cream Cruise 2019. Got some good runs down there and got some pictures of my car with Jamie from PFI Speeds The Curse, and some picture taken by 1320video.
Now that we are all caught up the only big update for this year is a new intake manifold. I am swapping the SDK ported intake manifold out for a DCR Street 9 center feed intake. Unfortunately it is going to take some modifying of the Mishimoto radiator to get it to work, I need to get a 99-06 stratus upper thermostat housing, probably removing the Mishimoto fans and shroud and installing pushers, wire in new IAC and TPS plugs, and then getting a new cold side fabed.
Also with this intake I got the DCR adapter to fit it onto a 420a if I ever decide to got with a forward facing turbo set up.
Ended up pulling the Mishimoto radiator shroud and fans for more clearance but I pulled the blades off and flipped them to turn the fans into pushers rather than pullers. In doing this I'll be able to mount the fans on the front side of the radiator. I removed the radiator mounts and MPx core shroud giving the upper hose more room as well by moving the top of the radiator all the way forward into the core support and trimming the hose back a little, and then made some new radiator brackets to pull the radiator forward as far as possible.
Still working on getting clearance but as of right now I think I have everything moved enough. I removed the intake so I could re route the wiring for the injectors and alternator. Will the intake was off I got the 3 Bar MAP sensor installed no more adapter needed. Also have to decide what FPR I am going to use the one that came with the I take that is a smaller Fuelab or my original.
Working on getting the correct pigtails for the 75mm mustang TB. During test fitting I have also gotten the dipstick tube rebent to clear the intake just need to re adjust the mounting location standoff. Looking to get new lengths of OEM colored wire from Kinnetic Kreations to lengthen the injector wires allowing to tuck the harness under the manifold and then wire in the new ford tps and iac. Also tried to install the CSRT MAP sensor without using the adapter but then the sensor pointed into the heater core lines so still have to utilize the adapter.
Next was working on the fuel line routing I pulled the lines back from running over the passenger mm and I will be looking to re route them along the bottom side of the frame rail channel, along with replacing the 5/16 rubber return line that's been on since I originally installed the spoolboy with some stainless braided -6.
Also worked on relocating the PCM and this time I'll be utilizing the OEM PCM mount to bolt it in utilizing the bolt hole in my frame that I've been using for a ground and them I'll make a drop bracket to use a hold from the old cover plate mount.
Had thought about ordering all need injector plugs, IAC, and TPS from Kinnetic Kreations but going through some random boxes I found an already hacked SRT engine harness so I hacked it up a little more and took the plugs and as far back as possible for wires to lengthen everything to reach the center feed. This allowed me to get the ford pigtails wired in with as much OEM colored wiring and lengthening the injector harness to be able and tuck it underneath the manifold.
Started working on getting the fuel lines routed and mounted in their new locations starting with the engine, and running the new -6 stainless branded to replace the 5/8 rubber line I have been running since the car was originally built.
Also ended up receiving a box with some needed parts for the cooling and fuel system from JEGS. This shipment included some -6 ptfe washers so I can redo my spoolboy bulkhead, -6 male to male union, 2 new 8" Mishimoto fans, and the radiator ties. Got the Mishimoto fans switched from pullers to pusher fans and mounted them to the front of radiator at the bottom as to also utilize them to pull air "through" the intercooler
Ended up going to our local Farm & Fleet to pick up some stainless steel hardware to bolt the fuel rail in and make my own "stud" kit. To make the fuel rail hardware fit a little better I counter sunk the rail brackets and bolted the intake manifold in for the last time with gasket.
Reinstalled the intercooler on the car, and started getting all the vacuum and reference lines hooked back up in the engine bay. Also since I am running a mechanical fuel pressure gauge on the regulator I am repurposing the AEM gauge for oil pressure, so installed the AEM pressure sender into the side of the cylinder head.
Well with assistance from a guy on the Stratusphere forums he went to his local parts store and purchased the 96+ Stratus T stat housing and shipped it to me from PA.
Also I am going to be able to repurpose my old cold side pipe to use with the new intake. We will just have to cut the pipe and get it rotated to still utilize the BOV flange, and then add some 3" pipe to it.
And as always I had my little side kick in the garage with me trying to help.
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