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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I Currently have an e-manage / e-01 combo controlling my 750cc injectors and fuel pump. I do not have a fuel pressure regulator and return line setup and I am trying to get my car to idle correctly.

It is an 04 with a Stage 1 pcm in it (although I would like to swap in my stock PCM if possible)

I have the e-manage setup with 450 as the starting injector size and 750 as the new one. It comes up with a correction rate of .600.

I have tried taking out 5 to 10 percent more fuel at idle using the airflow adjustment map but it doesnt seem to help. I know the emanage is working because I can feel a slight shudder when I make the changes but the idle is still very lumpy ( like it is missing or has a very agressive set of cams in it.)

Now, if I blip the throttle a little, it will settle down. It doesnt take long for it to go back to the rough idle though.

Does anyone have any insight on this?

Thanks!
 

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i have the same issue when the lights are on and the fan is on, with the 650's and corrected form 500 to 650. I found though that with no lights and no fan on and it idles great. I wish I could figure it out also, how to get the idle to not be so lopey.

When at a light the idle varies so much that the lights in the car adn head lights go from dim to bright and so on...
 

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what you described is the way my car idles and I simply live with it....
I have for 2200 miles, its not a big deal at all.....
you can smell the car running rich at idle, the 750cc injectors are very large and its noticed when the car idles....
 

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Have you tried putting all the airflow adjustment maps at 0's? Ive heard that you dont need to use the airflow adjustment maps.
I havent even looked at those maps, let alone change them, everything is at 0.
All you should need to use is the injector correction feature and the add injector maps, and maybe the boost limiter cut feature (map clamp), IF and only if your map sensor output voltage is going too high under boost. Mine doesnt even get to 4 volts at 22psi.

If you have an 04 S1 pcm then the 500cc - 750cc setting should work. Do you have a wideband to monitor a/f? If you do, it should be idleing around 14.7 a/f.
Mine was running rich at first, (idleing high 13's a/f) so I changed my setting to 500cc - 760cc and it leaned out the idle perfectly.

Im not saying this is the right way, but it works for me and mine idles just fine.
The problem Im haveing is maxing out my injector duty cycle % while WOT in the upper RPM range with only 22psi of boost, while trying to stay out of the 13's a/f!

Ive heard a fuel return line setup with an FPR will help this, and now Ive also heard that it will help idle and driveablity too by lowering the fuel pressure at idle, yet raise the pressure under boost.
This is the next mod Im doing, very soon!
 

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Well i'm having the same problem with mine, and I have 490-750 in the correction table, and the car is doing it once in a while, and I agree blip the throttle , it'll slowly go down to idle, then it'll idle fine..
but my TPS sensor & harness are messed up , cause in the SET UP menu under throttle it's reading 4.97v in all 3 spots so I'm getting that fixed soon.
so hopefully the new turbo will get at least one run down the 1/4 mile before the snow comes....
 

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Are most of you running 255 HP pumps?
HP pumps basicaly require a return. Even if you install a 255 HP pump on a car that has a stock fuel return, sometimes a new higher flowing FPR that can lower the pressure at idle is required because the stock one can't by-pass enough fuel back to the tank.

Did anybody consider a 190lph pump? A 190lph pumps out 50 gallons per hour. Think about it. It could empty 4 full tanks of gas in 1 hour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Has anyone succesfully pulled fuel out at idle using the airflow adjustment map to make it idle correctly?

They always say that tuning the car at WOT is the easy part and the driveability is the hardest. :lol:

Blue, are you saying that you have taken no fuel out at all (except for using the injector correction) and only added it where needed?
 

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jeans car idles fine when 500cc/750cc is used. Nothing on the air flow map is adjusted for idle.

we do have lower fuel pressure though, 42/48

once in a while the idle goes up and the car has a slight rich spot. Like when the a/c is on or the defog.

when I had 520cc/750cc i had to take out -17 in the idle map so the car could idle without being at 12.7-13:1
 

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silverscooby said:
Has anyone succesfully pulled fuel out at idle using the airflow adjustment map to make it idle correctly?

They always say that tuning the car at WOT is the easy part and the driveability is the hardest. :lol:

Blue, are you saying that you have taken no fuel out at all (except for using the injector correction) and only added it where needed?
Yep, thats what I was trying to say.

Mine idles/drives pretty good, it does stumble at times, but its not bad at all.
Im starting to think that some of the idleing and driveablity problems is because we are running too high of fuel pressure without a return line.

I think people that have the return lines and rising rate regulators have the idle fuel pressure lowered down for the big injectors, then under boost the FPR raises the pressure.

I ordered the PsiFi fuel kit today, so we'll see if it helps. I think its going to help with my lacking fuel (duty cycle too high) in the upper RPM range too!
 

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silverscooby said:
Yeah, if I dont blip the throttle. Once I blip it, it idles okay. Still need to put a wideband on it and see what A/F I'm running.

What should it be running at idle, 14.7 to 1?
Yep, 14.7
You really should get a wideband to see if your rich or lean at idle and WOT, how else are you going to tune the car with the emanage? On a dyno?
I have the PLX Devices M-300, it has a nice and easy to see red digital display on it. I have it mounted next to my stock boost gauge and it also has an output thats hooked to the e-01 for data logging.
Ive been doing all my tuning this way, I dont know what I'd do with out it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
BlueSRT404 said:
Yep, 14.7
You really should get a wideband to see if your rich or lean at idle and WOT, how else are you going to tune the car with the emanage? On a dyno?
I have the PLX Devices M-300, it has a nice and easy to see red digital display on it. I have it mounted next to my stock boost gauge and it also has an output thats hooked to the e-01 for data logging.
Ive been doing all my tuning this way, I dont know what I'd do with out it!
Eric, I have the PLX M-300, it is going in the car tomorrow. Of course I wouldnt try tuning it without knowing my A/F! :lol:

Thanks for the help man!
 

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silverscooby said:
Eric, I have the PLX M-300, it is going in the car tomorrow. Of course I wouldnt try tuning it without knowing my A/F! :lol:

Thanks for the help man!
No problem man! Just wait till you get that baby tuned and turn up the boost, you think its fast now, just wait! :rofl:
I thought 13 -14 psi was fast (felt like S2 w/toys plus extra mods @ 18psi) Then I got to tuning it and boosting 22psi, and let me tell you, it will force you into the seat! :thumbsup:
 
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