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Well i started noticing that im having a slight problem in 4th gear. I hope its nothing big or its just probably me. I try my hardest not to bang gears. I have about 20k miles on my 2004 srt. When I shift from 3rd to 4th on a WOT . The gear wont go in once in a while. Has happen to me a couple times in the past 3 days. I was racing neck to neck with a Audi S4 and a Modded Mustang GT with nos. Everytime I WOT into 4th it does not go in. I have 2 wait and yell sh1t and then it goes in. Has anyone ever had this problem? I still haven't changed the transmission fluid yet.
 

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2004 Solar Yellow SRT-4
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Change the fluid and avoid the ATF+4 if you're smart! Sorry, I have never had this happen to my '04 but, I changed it @19K and put in Synthetic Gear Oil. Now at 94K and still kick'n butt!
 

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im having this same problem have you found an answer yet?
 

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it shouldn't be low on fluid as there is no where for it to leak or evaporate for the most part , but old fluid will shift poorly. Try changing the fluid, what you use is your choice, but often just changing the fluid helps. I found that the stock fluid doesn't work well at high rpm and wot shifting, and old stock fluid is even worse. I'd recommend some other fluids if you are into that, otherwise just putting in fresh fliud helps. But if there is a problem with your tranny, no fluid in the world will make a bad tranny good.
 

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I am having the exact same issue. Though I just started having mine since I got the car back from the shop.
 

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It may be your clutch grabbing at the high rpms. Try this. Stop your car, put it in first gear, and with the clutch fully depressed, rev the car to redline. If your car begins jerking forward, even just slightly at higher rpms, you know your clutch isn't disengaging all the way. I am having this problem as well, and so I tried adjusting the pedal all the way out to get more travel. Now my clutch fork/throwout arm is hitting against the pressure plate. So I'm at a loss right now as to what to do.
 

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well i adjusted my pedal just a hare out and changed tranny fluid since i had a clutch put in about a month ago and i wasnt sure what type of fluid they put in. Seems to overall shift better but havent had a chance to really get on it yet and see. Hopefully i dont have the problem the guy above has if so im just going to keep rolling until it just wont shift at all the replace the tranny.
 

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seems like we all need to get a different clutch. I am curently having Spec Stage 4 clutch.... What is everyone else using? ( I know inojoking has ACT)

BTW - I also adjusted my pedal all the way up - to get more travel - and with it all the way up I took her out in the street. Roasted 2nd did a WOT to 3rd & when I tried to WOT to 4th - it still would not go in. and I know for a fact that clutch was all the way disengaged. At this time - white smoke also poured out - as the clutch was not grabbing all the way now. lol
Possible problem is that Frank from Xtremeboost - after rebuilding my engine just put straight ATF+4 in the tranny with no friction modifier. He said that he never uses it !!!!!
So, I will find out when I get back in town & get a chance to work on the car.
 

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Have any of you guys tried to bleed your clutch. Here are the instructions.

2.4L Engine (With Turbo)
From driver’s seat, actuate clutch pedal 60–100
times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still
feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage,
excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform
the following procedure:
(1) Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir.
Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove clutch slave cylinder/damper assembly
from the transaxle case (Fig. 5), but do not disconnect
from the hydraulic system. Lift nylon tab
with a small screwdriver, and then depress cylinder
inward towards case and rotating cylinder 60°
counter-clockwise. Allow the slave cylinder hang,
making it the lowest part of the system.
CAUTION: While slave cylinder is detached from the
transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder.
Damage to the slave cylinder will result.

(4) Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms
and then release. Repeat this at least ten (10) times,
forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
(5) Install clutch slave cylinder into position, noting
orientation of different sized lugs. While depressing
inward, rotate slave cylinder clockwise untilnylon locating tab rests in transaxle case cutout, and
the hydraulic tube is vertical (Fig. 5).
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid
level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify
clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy,
or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped
within the system. Repeat Step 3 - Step 7 until air is
purged. If several attempts at purging air from the
system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master
cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
(8) Raise vehicle.
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with
DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

I hope this helps.
 

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AtlSrt4 said:
seems like we all need to get a different clutch. I am curently having Spec Stage 4 clutch.... What is everyone else using? ( I know inojoking has ACT)

BTW - I also adjusted my pedal all the way up - to get more travel - and with it all the way up I took her out in the street. Roasted 2nd did a WOT to 3rd & when I tried to WOT to 4th - it still would not go in. and I know for a fact that clutch was all the way disengaged. At this time - white smoke also poured out - as the clutch was not grabbing all the way now. lol
Possible problem is that Frank from Xtremeboost - after rebuilding my engine just put straight ATF+4 in the tranny with no friction modifier. He said that he never uses it !!!!! So, I will find out when I get back in town & get a chance to work on the car.

Friction modifier has nothing to do with with your clutch, your syncros or even your gears. FM is for you LSD. If you adjusted you pedal with no results try bleeding you slave/master cylinder. If that doesn't work you have some sort of other machanical problem.
 

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babykat said:
Have any of you guys tried to bleed your clutch. Here are the instructions.

2.4L Engine (With Turbo)
From driver’s seat, actuate clutch pedal 60–100
times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still
feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage,
excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform
the following procedure:
(1) Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir.
Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove clutch slave cylinder/damper assembly
from the transaxle case (Fig. 5), but do not disconnect
from the hydraulic system. Lift nylon tab
with a small screwdriver, and then depress cylinder
inward towards case and rotating cylinder 60°
counter-clockwise. Allow the slave cylinder hang,
making it the lowest part of the system.
CAUTION: While slave cylinder is detached from the
transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder.
Damage to the slave cylinder will result.

(4) Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms
and then release. Repeat this at least ten (10) times,
forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
(5) Install clutch slave cylinder into position, noting
orientation of different sized lugs. While depressing
inward, rotate slave cylinder clockwise untilnylon locating tab rests in transaxle case cutout, and
the hydraulic tube is vertical (Fig. 5).
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid
level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify
clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy,
or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped
within the system. Repeat Step 3 - Step 7 until air is
purged. If several attempts at purging air from the
system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master
cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
(8) Raise vehicle.
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with
DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

I hope this helps.
I've performed this several times to no avail.
 

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babykat said:
Friction modifier has nothing to do with with your clutch, your syncros or even your gears. FM is for you LSD. If you adjusted you pedal with no results try bleeding you slave/master cylinder. If that doesn't work you have some sort of other machanical problem.
you might be right. But almost everyone reports smoother shifting when using ATF+4. And I have adjusted the clutch pedal. All the way up once too- & all I got for that was smoke from the clutch. SO, it is not the clutch as it only does it in 3-4 shift. 4-5 is fine as well. So... I dunno..
 
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