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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry if they are FAQs…

1.) Just to make sure, is this a direct bolt on, or will I need to take a trip to the muffler shop down the street for some welding. Will it slip right onto the OEM pipe behind the cat?

2.) Since the inlet to the downpipe is a 3 inches, is the exhaust exit of the turbine also 3" or is it a smaller 2.5 or 2.25 or what?


3.) Is the downstream O2 sensor bung in the same location as OEM or will I have to lengthen the harness to help the sensor to reach the bung?
 

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when i visited atp a couple weeks ago I found out a few things.

the downpipe is a direct bolt on, no cutting or welding required.

the turbo flange opening is 2.5" whereas the stock dp opening is 2.25".

I only saw the racepipe, but it was a little farther down, but still high enough that you do not need to cut and splice any wires to make yur o2 fit.


Right now I am kinda mad at them. I emailed them and they didn't reply, and that was almost two weeks ago. When I was there on friday (about 4 weeks ago) they were just hanging out, not busy. They are knowledgable and are in communication with dodge trying to get computer codes and whatnot, but unless they offer something better than the rest for the same or less money, I am sticking with local shops and my trusty mail order guys. oh yea, can't forget DM, exhaust depot, turboxs, and the rest of my crew (just felt like the nascar thing to say :lol: )
 

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mattraff said:
Sorry if they are FAQs…

1.) Just to make sure, is this a direct bolt on, or will I need to take a trip to the muffler shop down the street for some welding. Will it slip right onto the OEM pipe behind the cat?

2.) Since the inlet to the downpipe is a 3 inches, is the exhaust exit of the turbine also 3" or is it a smaller 2.5 or 2.25 or what?


3.) Is the downstream O2 sensor bung in the same location as OEM or will I have to lengthen the harness to help the sensor to reach the bung?
1. Yes direct bolt on.
2. 3"
3. Do not have to lengthen harness. There is a clip that you have to unclip and it will extend the wires on the OEM O2
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you, Guys. I'm having a diffucult time weighing the differences between getting an ATP system now against waiting for Mopar Stage I...

When I put the long tube headers on my Neon ACR, Phatridz told me it was a one week build time and a direct bolt on from the head to the slip joint at the OEM pipe. Nothing could have been further from the truth.

I want to make sure that what I do with this car is painless, even if it means having to pay a dealer install mopar parts.
 

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I am going to go with the ATP setups, since it looks like a really nice design, and you can't go wrong. Looks like a peaceful install if you know what your doing. I know from previous downpipes they offer, they're stuff is really good.
 

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Pleas echeck the buy/sell section. Im selling my atp exhaust stuff....brand new.
 

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For what its worth, we are stocking the downpipes, up pipes and more from ATP. Quality overall seems very good, and we have already installed a up pipe and Greddy Bov on our project car.

If any of you need a Atp piece - give us a call. We would be happy to help and usually keep a good supply of them in stock.

(I would have answered your questions but the other two guys beat me to it.. :wink:
 

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www.ModernPerformance.com :roll: Modernceo= Cory Haines and his tittle is his sn :wink: if you didnt look in his sig already :roll: 8)
 

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Will installing the ATP Downpipe & High-Flow Catalyst throw a CEL?

Also, what're those 3 sensors on the top-left of the Air-Box lid?
 
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