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Ok there has been post after post of this but no body ever comes back to say what it was.ok here we go I can sometimes get in this gears and then sometimes I can't.I can never get in to under normal shifting half to hold it until rpms go down.car does not grind at all .when car is off all gear work but if car is on or warm that's when it starts.even with the car off if is warm its some time will not go in.I have took off the shifter select and replaced it with another one still same thing, I have Cheak shift cables and bracket and the clips,so help is need please oya this is a trans I had for two years for a spear just rebuilt engine and put it on 2nd gear was gone on other one.
 

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Clutch/hydraulics. If replacing the master line, or adding fluid, pumping the slave 10-15x, adjusting the engagement point under the clutch pedal doesnt work. Start saving for a clutch.


Ps (Dont get clutchmasters)
 

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i would say worn out pivot arm. check the bushing at the shift selector and shifter and make sure they are worn out as well
 

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I have sort of the same problem..car will not go into reverse will the motor is running. I have to cut the car off to get into reverse everytime.. I was told clutch isn't engaging or disengaging one of those..car leans forward before I even get it into 1st gear..if I hold it in 1st it will crawl forward with no gas n clutch pedal completely on the floor...guess im going steel lines 1st n see if that helps
 

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I think this problem has contributed to me braking 2shifter cables..currently on 130k
 

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figuring out transmission problems over the internet if very difficult. These transmissions suck ass and if you have a car that's making torque/power it's gonna fail.

The symptoms you have stated relate to a couple of possible problems. for instance, some of what you say could be caused by a bad shift fork. It could also be a issue with the type and brand of clutch you are using. My ACT sprung 6 puck would lock me out when attempting to shift at higher RPMs. This would happen regardless of what gear I was in.

I say just rebuild the entire thing. Get as much billet stuff as you can for the rebuild and throw in some kevlar treated gears/syncro's.
 

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I think this problem has contributed to me braking 2shifter cables..currently on 130k
worn out pivot are. its the arm that the throw out bearing is sitting on. as it wears out... it doesnt push the bearing into the clutch as far as its supposed to making it hard to get into any gear while your sitting still or moving. people waste money on cryo'd ones and all the other options are ok..... but welding the material back on is stronger than a cryo treated one could be. i pulled one out of my tranny after i did it at 36k or so and you could barely see any noticeable wear. when we weld them... we quickly cool them... almost as a tempering process would. grind it into shape and your done. for 10 bucks most places will weld them for you if you know where to put the material back on.
 

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worn out pivot are. its the arm that the throw out bearing is sitting on. as it wears out... it doesnt push the bearing into the clutch as far as its supposed to making it hard to get into any gear while your sitting still or moving. people waste money on cryo'd ones and all the other options are ok..... but welding the material back on is stronger than a cryo treated one could be. i pulled one out of my tranny after i did it at 36k or so and you could barely see any noticeable wear. when we weld them... we quickly cool them... almost as a tempering process would. grind it into shape and your done. for 10 bucks most places will weld them for you if you know where to put the material back on.
Cryo treating parts does not work period. That's pretty much been proven. Kevlar treated gears/syncro's are the way to go. A set is being tested and so far they have lived up to a bunch of 10 sec/130mph passes.
 

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I have a similar issue. I can get it into 1st, 3rd, 4th, 5th and Reverse, but not 2nd. If I'm at idle or cars off, it goes in smoothly. While I'm driving and I try to put it into 2nd, it feels like I need to keep pulling back on the shifter, like its not goiing far enough, even though the shifter is against the seat... and that is with a Mopar STS. I was going to switch shift cables, and I have booger bushings and 3rd gear extender.
 

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Cryo treating parts does not work period. That's pretty much been proven. Kevlar treated gears/syncro's are the way to go. A set is being tested and so far they have lived up to a bunch of 10 sec/130mph passes.
i agree. but im also talking about the pivot arm itself.... not the syncros and gears. however.. the kevlar ones do work great :thumbsup:
 

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worn out pivot are. its the arm that the throw out bearing is sitting on. as it wears out... it doesnt push the bearing into the clutch as far as its supposed to making it hard to get into any gear while your sitting still or moving. people waste money on cryo'd ones and all the other options are ok..... but welding the material back on is stronger than a cryo treated one could be. i pulled one out of my tranny after i did it at 36k or so and you could barely see any noticeable wear. when we weld them... we quickly cool them... almost as a tempering process would. grind it into shape and your done. for 10 bucks most places will weld them for you if you know where to put the material back on.
Thank you for the info
 

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I have a similar issue. I can get it into 1st, 3rd, 4th, 5th and Reverse, but not 2nd. If I'm at idle or cars off, it goes in smoothly. While I'm driving and I try to put it into 2nd, it feels like I need to keep pulling back on the shifter, like its not goiing far enough, even though the shifter is against the seat... and that is with a Mopar STS. I was going to switch shift cables, and I have booger bushings and 3rd gear extender.
Shifter cables and booger bushings wont help the problems u are having, I change Booth recently and I still experience similar problems..it's a clutch or bearing problem ur having
 

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Well I had a new clutch installed last year, so it must be a bearing. Throw out bearing? Regardless looks like I'm gonna have to drop the tranny I guess?
 

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I had this exact same problem. You can sometimes get into 2-4-R depending on the way you shift (very quick and ensure you pull down hard and to the far left). Your shifter cable is failing. It's not the bushings but the actual shift cable. Once you pull it out, you'll see the shift cable has 2 lines, 1 of the lines has stretched to the point it can no longer engage the gear.
 

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you cant say what it is exactly just because you had this problem. With these tranmissions and all possible problems/issues that are common, a few different things can be causing similar problems with different parts responsible. Like engagement, shifting, etc.....
 

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I would do the SS clutch line before u change or drop anything.. I just did mine with the same symptoms and now it's all gone and shifting is great...it will save u time and money.. And if it doesnt fix it, it's still a good thing to change out anyways.. It's a win win situation
 

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I can say EXACTLY what this is. It is NOT a clutch issue. take off your airbox and feel towards the top plate where the shift linkage attaches to ther tranny. On the right side is the selector for which column you are wanting (1/2 or 3/4 or 5/r) and on the left is the up or down selection (1-3-5 or 2-4-r). look for obstructions between those selectors. Mine was the throttle cable fell down between the selectors and the weight on the left selector was binding.against this cable when pushing into 2-4-R and was not allowing it to move fully into 2-4-R. I pulled that out and was immediately able to shift freely! repair time == 15 minutes, cost ==NILL.

Hope this helps someone else!
David J
 

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or the clip on the right side of the shifter assembly inside the car (LOL) =]

I have not had this issue but the symptoms point at linkage if only top or bottom half of the gears work.

Missing a clip would also 'lockout' 2/4/r and there would be a scratchy mousy sound from under the plastic center console just forward and to the right of the shifter boot when you tried to shift.

if you are having a problem where its harder to select gears while running then when turned off you can be reasonably sure its a clutch problem ( not fully disengaging due to wear or air in the lines or bad adj, broken pivot etc bottom line: not fully disengaging )

D
 

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I can say EXACTLY what this is. It is NOT a clutch issue. take off your airbox and feel towards the top plate where the shift linkage attaches to ther tranny. On the right side is the selector for which column you are wanting (1/2 or 3/4 or 5/r) and on the left is the up or down selection (1-3-5 or 2-4-r). look for obstructions between those selectors. Mine was the throttle cable fell down between the selectors and the weight on the left selector was binding.against this cable when pushing into 2-4-R and was not allowing it to move fully into 2-4-R. I pulled that out and was immediately able to shift freely! repair time == 15 minutes, cost ==NILL.

Hope this helps someone else!
David J
i had the same problem, easy fix.
 
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