[Jondahl]

My 2004 is about to go up on the rack for an engine build, as well as a little transmission and suspension work. I bought it 6 years ago with 35K on it, and put another 54k on it as a daily driver.

I put an SRI, direct fit FMIC, and a 3" turboback exhaust on it right away, but I never even went WOT in 5 years. In December 2013 I suddenly decided to take up drag racing, and it's been a very expensive hobby, as you well know.

I'm 35 years too old for this, but I can't stop modding.

I'm buying everything in sight, and I pore over the Modern Perf site trying to find something I haven't bought already.

The money hasn't paid off yet;my best time in 2013 was [email protected], even with a BWS and 380 HP according to the Mustang dyno..

It's time to install all the stuff I bought, and more's arriving every day. Somebody stop me!

2009 mods:

Weapon R SRI
Exhaust Depot FMIC direct fit
Exhaust Depot 3" turboback

2014:

15GK2 BWS from MIC
FM wastegate
AGP engine, trans mounts
Intune
888cc injectors and Needless Torque tune (usually the E85 tune)
AGP fuel return
BC coilovers
PT Cruiser steel wheels
M&H 235/15 Street and Strip
ARP extended wheel studs
NGK NTK wideband
MPx catch can (leaks!):flame:
new hoses
new belts, except timing
new vacuum solenoid
HKS blowoff valve
SDK race port exhaust manifold
JMB ported intake
MPx 62mm throttle body
new battery
new PCV
JMB upper pressure pipe
AGP lower pressure pipe
Walbro 255 and rewire kit
Granatelli coil
MSD wires
NGK iridium plugs 0.039" gap
Scangauge
ACT HDSS clutch (burned up soon after I installed the BWS;found out what that burning smell was on the dyno and at the track;too much torque!)
ACT HD 6-puck replaced the street clutch
Yokohama Advan Neova 008 tires for the street
Hurst shifter
Ragetek clutch pivot arm
Mopar clutch fork and throwout bearing
Clutch pivot ball
Radiator cap, high pressure
N2MB WOTbox with 2-step
DSS Level 3 axles

2015:

AGP shift extenders
Raptor shift light
Energy suspension bushings
Blockoff plate for stock blowoff valve
180 deg thermostat
ARP head studs
Head ported locally
MPx cam gears
Crower S1 cams
OEM timing belt
Mopar water pump
Mopar tensioner
Mopar oil pump
Mopar idler bearing
DCR direct fit strap kit
DCR windage tray after balance shaft removal
DCR stock bore pistons
Manley rods
Mopar rod bearings
Mopar main bearings
Mopar main seals
Mopar cam seals
Mopar valve seals and spark plug seals
Mopar bottom end gaskets
DCR head gasket
Mopar exhaust gasket
Hondata intake gasket
Mopar spark plug seals
BC 1mm oversize valves and keepers
BC valve guides
Crower titanium retainers and springs
PWerks bottleneck kit
Mopar 2.7L rockers
PT Cruiser lash adjusters
New E85 and gas tunes

Did I miss anything?

I'm about to purchase a DCR treated input shaft, but I may not install it until after this race season. I might do a full transmission rebuild at the same time. I might add a carbon fiber trunk to lose some weight, and the red paint looks like it's got a bad case of leprosy.

I'm thinking about Enkei light racing wheels for the back. I'm also thinking about Bogart wheels in the back with 3.6" skinnies for track days, but the guys in the street legal group at Atlanta Dragway Fast Fridays would look askance at me.

I even spent $300 for 30 gal of VP C85. I'm running out of stuff to buy; maybe a bigger turbo...nitrous? This build should be able to handle most anything;might need a bigger pump and fuel lines for 500 hp in the future.

Right now the goal's a very reliable 400 whp. I have to drive it 2 hours to the track, so reliability is paramount.

 

[chicagoskittle]

Tru 400whp with bws might be very hard.
Built motor ported head cams etc. Your bws is a bottle neck

109 traps is nowhere near 380. More likely 260

 

[Crazyced]

I'd go for a KW or RT input shaft if reliability is what you want. Also carry spare axles.

One question, how is your MPx catch can leaking? I'm looking into getting one.

 

[Pizza Trump]

Get some slicks and a real turbo.

 

[Whiteout2011]

Machines straps and a Kw shaft is what I would change.

Looks like fun.

 

[fixit]

fuel pump rewire

 

[1LAPSRT]

Look up Donnie Carroll at TunerGeeks. He can hook you up with a KW shaft and a turbo/manifold of almost any style and size.

 

[Jondahl]

fuel pump rewire

Fuel pump rewire was done in 2014 with eBay kit. Have you seen the price of the DCR kit?!

 

[Jondahl]

Look up Donnie Carroll at TunerGeeks. He can hook you up with a KW shaft and a turbo/manifold of almost any style and size.

I don't want straight cut gears, at least not yet. I'm driving two hours to the track. I also need something available quickly. The PWerks billet shaft looks great, but it took them six months to complete the group buy.

 

[Jondahl]

I'd go for a KW or RT input shaft if reliability is what you want. Also carry spare axles.

One question, how is your MPx catch can leaking? I'm looking into getting one.

It's leaking consistently from the valve at the bottom. Drips around the PCM and throttle body because I mounted it to a bracket for the radiator.

 

[Jondahl]

Tru 400whp with bws might be very hard.
Built motor ported head cams etc. Your bws is a bottle neck

109 traps is nowhere near 380. More likely 260

Forward Motion and MIC Turbo might disagree. I'm heading for a close equivalent to the FM Stage 6 build. I calculate that 23 psi, E85 and a custom tune will get there. The tunes so far are no more than rescales. As JFK said, we do these things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard.

Here's a link to the thread with dyno charts from July and December:

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f384/stock-turbo-base-tune-duster360-dyno-numbers-652034/index3.html

I posted both stock and BWS numbers. The stock turbo gave an average for 3 runs of 360 HP, and the BWS tested 6 months later on the same dyno averaged 380 whp (corrected numbers) for two runs. I estimate the dyno is averaging 5% to 10% high for power, maybe a bit worse for torque.

I got 318 on a Dynojet with the BWS, but the clutch was slipping a lot. We could smell it burning, and it burned completely a few weeks later at Carolina Dragway. That ACT HDSS was only in there 3 months before it died.

My best time was at Carolina Dragway, but I had big problems. I was launching at 3200 and the engine was not only bogging, it was dying. I'd get a bang, the engine would die and I roll a few feet. It's a miracle I didn't break something. It's one reason I'm looking at input shafts. Real drag racers will laugh if they see my time slips.

I still don't have enough passes on the track to know what I'm doing. The car was on the rack, not the track for most of the year.

 

[Jondahl]

Get some slicks and a real turbo.

A big turbo might happen after this one dies.

Are slicks that much better than the M&H Street and Strip? I'm not racing with the slick tire bunch at Atlanta, I'm with the street legal crew at Fast Fridays. The rules say you can use slicks for these pseudo races, but I'll get the evil eye from most of the crowd there; I'm not sure they read the posted rules on the website so closely.

It's screwy, why paint an S/L on the car, then let you run slicks? I pulled the back seat out once, and I lost the S/L status.

 

[1LAPSRT]

I don't want straight cut gears, at least not yet. I'm driving two hours to the track. I also need something available quickly. The PWerks billet shaft looks great, but it took them six months to complete the group buy.

The straight cut gears are 1 and 2 on that set-up I believe. Your drive to the track shouldn't be using those too much! :nerd2:

 

[Pizza Trump]

A big turbo might happen after this one dies.

Are slicks that much better than the M&H Street and Strip? I'm not racing with the slick tire bunch at Atlanta, I'm with the street legal crew at Fast Fridays. The rules say you can use slicks for these pseudo races, but I'll get the evil eye from most of the crowd there; I'm not sure they read the posted rules on the website so closely.

It's screwy, why paint an S/L on the car, then let you run slicks? I pulled the back seat out once, and I lost the S/L status.

Big turbo + slicks = sub 12 second runs all day

 

[Mrturbo24]

I wouldn't be proud of a "big" turbo runnin 12s

When nowadays the stock snail (with supporting mods of course)is doing 11s all day with weight reduction. One guy broke into the 10s ..

Id be happy with a mid 11s low 11s wit a bigger snail.

 

[D-SRT]

Came in to see overkill.

Leaving, having seen bws.

 

[Pizza Trump]

I wouldn't be proud of a "big" turbo runnin 12s

When nowadays the stock snail (with supporting mods of course)is doing 11s all day with weight reduction. One guy broke into the 10s ..

Id be happy with a mid 11s low 11s wit a bigger snail.

You missed the key word "sub" 12 sec.

 

[Pizza Trump]

Came in to see overkill.

Leaving, having seen bws.

Well played.:lol:

 

[Jondahl]

Came in to see overkill.

Leaving, having seen bws.

You guys wouldn't be impressed with a 6262.

The title comes from the fact that it's overkill for a BWS.

I am trying to avoid the fate of UnderSRTArmor. I could summarize that story as: "I just want 300...well, I discovered a BWS, maybe 400...I dunno, maybe 500 is enough...No, 650 should be about right...boom!..Time for a new hobby...or maybe a Honda."

I want the AGP twin scroll kit with a 5731 so badly; such a deal!

 

[Pizza Trump]

Overkill is a strong word. When used we expect a huge turbo maybe sidewinder manifold or avenger head, sheet metal intake etc. Not a souped up stock turbo and boltons.:rofl: