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I move at the pace of 3 kids and a job that travels. Working on the rear today.
Wish I had a good excuse like that! I'm just super lazy! Good on you for being a family man. :clap:
Hopefully your rear control arm bushings aren't gone. Mine wouldn't hold an alignment. You'll soon find out either way. Make sure he checks your tie rods before he starts putting effort into it. Mine haven't developed play yet. I had a new steering rack assembly installed under warranty at 35k miles. car has 170k now.
 

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My rear bushings all were toast at 240K also....
I just installed new torshion arm bushings and DCR tubular brushed alum.Rears and they look awesome from the back.
much more adjustment avail. than stock too!
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Left rear complete.

If you’re a professional mechanic, mad props! I haven’t done major stuff like this in at least 10 years.

Some things were a real pain, but I got over it. All hand tools so far. Pneumatics wouldn’t have helped my difficulties. I’ll be curious after a few days of driving if Chrysler fixed the rear alignment issue with hole placement on their new struts. I’ve got camber kits just in case.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fyLKgOVoo7n35QBDa1bHoMDpaltn1oXH/view?usp=drivesdk

Socket and torque specs (page 2-47)
**If there was more than 1 bolt I did everything at half then full torque. No lube besides Blaster was used. Only thread lock was on ABS bracket bolt since it was a replacement. All other bolts felt like they were interference fit or tapered.

Strut nut: Miller 6864 and 10 mm internal socket — 55 ft-lb
Upper strut mount: 13mm — 300 in-lb
Lower strut bolts: 18mm deep — 65 ft-lb (bolt heads 15mm)
Caliper Guide pins: 10mm — 192 in-lb
ABS bracket mounting screw: 10mm — 120 in-lb
Wheel lug nuts: 19mm or 3/4 — 100 ft-lb
Stabilizer link: 13mm — 200 in-lb
 

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My rear bushings all were toast at 240K also....
I just installed new torshion arm bushings and DCR tubular brushed alum.Rears and they look awesome from the back.
much more adjustment avail. than stock too!
Man that is impressive. I think there’s been a few 300k cars but I can’t imagine 240k. Thats like 7 throwout forks lmao. I’m on my fourth already. Oem, replaced with oem, pulled at 76k had a guy weld on beads, failed and replaced at 110k with a wikyd performance fork, replaced at 154k due to a engine rebuild with another wikyd performance fork.
 

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Did you get new struts from the dealership or Modern?

I'm teetering on the edge of ordering completely new strut assemblies for front and rear for my own "period-correct", bone-stock, former press car.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Did you get new struts from the dealership or Modern?

I'm teetering on the edge of ordering completely new strut assemblies for front and rear for my own "period-correct", bone-stock, former press car.
Everything was obtained from the dealer when possible. I got a parts manager who is awesome. Then for more Mopar stuff I went to Advance Auto. They had to get some things from “world pack”? But they came in a Mopar box and had real part numbers on them.

Front lower insulators are Moog. Camber kits are Moog.

Modern was awesome with info. I got the same discount from my parts guy and I didn’t have to pay for shipping. So that saved some $. Shipping all that stuff would have been quite expensive.

Reasoning behind all of this: dealership will have the latest mods and re-engineering if any had been done. All fasteners will easily torque and fit as appropriate.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Test drive complete. Huge difference! The fronts lumber over bumps but the rear feels like the sports car I remember buying. No other pops or creaks.

Follow up: re-re-adjust parking brake. I was over this car by the time I got around to it.

Later to buy: rear stabilizer bushings, end links, and hardware. I’ll consider the other rear bushings if I have money to burn.
 

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Looking good! I need to redo my brakes sometime, for some reason the color on the passenger side is all faded but not on the driver's side... I think I'm braking too hard to the right lol
 

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Looking good! I need to redo my brakes sometime, for some reason the color on the passenger side is all faded but not on the driver's side... I think I'm braking too hard to the right lol
Mine is the same way.... hmmmmmmm
 

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Discussion Starter #34
If you’re right-footed, then you’re probably heating them up too much. Me? Driving I have to clutch and gas with the left and right foot respectively. However, when it comes to braking, I jump on that pedal with both feet!!! That’s why both calipers had to be replaced in the past.
 

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I wouldn't be surprised if your calipers are dragging slightly causing more heat buildup. My passenger side front tends to stick more often than the driver's side, but I always do them in pairs.
 

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I wouldn't be surprised if your calipers are dragging slightly causing more heat buildup. My passenger side front tends to stick more often than the driver's side, but I always do them in pairs.
honestly thats probably accurate... i've never even flushed my brake fluid (bad, i know...)
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Thread drift, sorry.

And a new fun project...wife’s van. Passenger sliding door won’t electrically open or close.

Will check continuity of wiring harness, then cleanliness of cables/spool/track, freedom of motor, and finally module replacement. I’ll save myself the swapping hassle since we use that door most anyway (dropping off kids at preschool).

Found a similar video fix: (the module on the left with the white sticker was the culprit in his video.)
 

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^^^
Thank you.
You sound just a wee bit like "Mustie1 Will it Run" on YouTube.
He's published quite a few "fixit" videos on YouTube which I've enjoyed.
He takes somebody else's discarded or cheap, severely neglected cars, motors, bikes, chainsaws, generators, grinders etc and making them run again as good as new.
Some pretty interesting, cost effective tips and tricks to be picked up in many of those videos too.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Thanks! I’m not Mustie1 though. I’ve been told maybe a little Kevin Spacey (not him either). Alan, live in Charlotte, NC, originally Akron, OH.

^^^
Thank you.
You sound just a wee bit like "Mustie1 Will it Run" on YouTube.
He's published quite a few "fixit" videos on YouTube which I've enjoyed.
He takes somebody else's discarded or cheap, severely neglected cars, motors, bikes, chainsaws, generators, grinders etc and making them run again as good as new.
Some pretty interesting, cost effective tips and tricks to be picked up in many of those videos too.
 
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