Do I have AEM EMS Problems - Dodge SRT Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Do I have AEM EMS Problems

The car is freshly put together and has not been started. (It won't start)

A code check throws all these codes:

P0032 HO2S Heater Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0033 Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Ctrl Circ
P0038 HO2S Heater Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0480 Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit
P0443 EVAP Purge Solenoid Valve 1 Control CKT
P0499
P0508 Undercurrent condition detected in linear idle air Ctrl motor feedback sense Circ
P0685 ECM/PCM Power Relay Ctrl Circ /Open
P0688 ECM/PCM Power Relay Sense Circ /Open
P0113 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit
P0243 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid 1
P1105 Secondary Vacuum Sensor Circuit
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0123 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage


Ideas?

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 11:39 AM
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Need more info. Those codes don't mean anything since you are now on the EMS.

Spark?
Fuel?
Air?

You need to load the base EMS .cal for the srt-4. Then you need to set your base timing.

Also need to see if you are even sync'ing (cam and crank sensors are in "time")

Originally Posted by AEMPro User Guide V2.0.pdf
Pickup Confirmation
Before the engine will fire the coil(s) and injection fuel, the cam and crank sensor
must be synchronized. If this is a plug n' play application, everything may be fine but
confirmation is always recommended.
Open AEMPro and Connect
Go to Options | Injector and uncheck Active for all injectors being used.
Because the injectors are disabled the engine will not start
Open the Home template
View the parameter Stat Sync'd, it should currently be OFF
Crank the engine and verify that Stat Sync'd turns ON within a few seconds.

Base timing Video:
AEM EMS Set Base Ignition Timing - Car Videos on StreetFire

Good luck. Not easy for a novice.

I would suggest reading the manual cover to cover about 10 times. Google anything that you don't 100% understand, and then read the manual once more for good measure.


Edit: I see you are Stage 3, is that correct? Then you will need to load the base map and then re-scale your base tune to match your S3 injectors etc...

Last edited by atroph; 07-18-2012 at 11:45 AM.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atroph View Post
Need more info. Those codes don't mean anything since you are now on the EMS.
Here is some more information that I'm aware you need.

I've never used an EMS. I don't have the software for the EMS. I have zero experience with the EMS. (I know I will have to do some searching for software, do some reading and learning.)

The Stage 3 car is a completely different car.

(I have 2 SRT-4's.)

Here is a link to the car I'm speaking of:

https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f451...08/index1.html

Basically, this is a 2005 ACR that I bought. The AEM EMS system has been in this particular car for a long time, it should be fully configured and ready to go. Other than removing the engine from this car, making the changes I wanted to make and dropping the motor back in, nothing has been changed electronically with this car.

I've checked and double checked, and all the sensors on all the wiring harnesses are definitely properly secured. Nothing is not hooked up.

IMPORTANT HISTORY. And perhaps this is _the_ problem. When I wanted to buy this car, I phoned the owner and asked him to get me the mileage. He phoned me back a few minutes later saying he hooked the battery up, but the car really really didn't like it, so he unhooked it. (I don't know what exactly happened)

I told him to not continue messing with it, that I would come over. So I went over, I hooked up the one connector by the brake/clutch fluid and then hooked up the battery. Then I was able to read the odo reading. Then it was unhooked and the battery has not been hooked up for the last 4 months while I've tried to find time to put the car back together.

When I originally went to put the key in after I was finished with the car, it said a fuse was blown. I actually found one fuse, the FP/ASD 20A fuse. I replaced it. At this time, when the door was opened, it would NOT say so and would NOT display odo reading until the key was in and turned. Also, the gauges would do a strange "sweep" Going from 0 to wrapped fully, then settling back down to nothing in apparent stages. The car still said F U S E so I double checked and there was another 20A fuse blown. I replaced that fuse, which was Radio INT/LMP 20A fuse. At this time I also fully checked the wiring. I did find that the downpipe O2 sensor connector was not fully seated. So that was rectified at that time. As far as the fuses go, I don't believe that I blew these fuses, I think they were already blown. Since I have replaced them, they have not blown again when battery is hooked up or when the key is put in the ignition.

I'm now wondering if it is possible if he hooked the battery up backwards when I requested the mileage from him. And that's why it "didn't like it". If I'm thinking right, this might have then fried the alternator voltage regulator? Is that possible? I can't imagine he'd do that, but I guess anything is possible.

More details. The battery reads 12.65 volts. (So maybe a touch low) All the interior lights now work properly. So when door is open, it reads that and the odo displays. The lights work. The fan turns on, the windows go up and down, the headlights work, scan gauge powers up, the AEM gauges power on, etc. The gauges no longer do a sweep.

The connections to the EMS are seemingly OK. The third connection from the top as I view it from above looks like the clip is broken, and that connector doesn't seat properly. But it looks to me like it is currently all the way down. I can see they've tried wrapping electrical tape around it in the past to hold it in place.

Any of this helpful?

If there is something specific you need to know, now that you know all this, I can provide further details.

Meanwhile, I think I will remove this alternator and see if I can get it tested. My two primary suspects are alternator and a fried EMS unit. But since I'm not an electrical expert, I don't even know if the alternator regulates voltage in this car while it is not running. But I am assuming it does.

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 01:03 PM
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You really need to hook a computer and see what the EMS is doing. Anything else is just a shot in the dark. The EMS should tell you everything once you look at the status pages.

That being said I am not an guru by any means on the EMS, but I will do my best to help out.

The software is free to download from AEM (just need to register on the forums).

The cable can be hand made, or you can purchase one. I actually don't have the OBD connector part. For temp purposes I have bare pins stuck in the OBD connector to connect to the EMS. Once my build is complete I will hardwire a plug to the glove box.

Edit:
Found the cable diagram
Hard Wire Comm. Cable
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 01:27 PM
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A few other things. A gauge sweep is a self test. I think you can initiate this (google it?). It usually happens after a battery reset.
Link:
https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f10/...r-test-581564/

12.XX volts isn't low unless the car is running. Running voltage should be 13+ volts. It is cranking amps that you need to be concerned with when the car is off. Not enough amps = no turn-over. The battery should be fine if the engine turns over.

I know for a fact the 1gn's are real bitchy about grounds, and the "did not like" could be from if he hooked the battery up to check odo and a ground or two was missing.

I wouldn't fool with the alternator until you get the car running. You should be able to crank and start the car without the alternator. It is actually the PCM that regulates voltage. A few sensors provide feedback to the PCM to ensure the correct voltage while running. Most important is the battery temp sensor. Make sure that one is present. No battery temp sensor = low charging volts = dead battery = spending money on alternator that isn't bad.

Also the last comment in your project log is totally incorrect. Worry about starting the car first.

Last edited by atroph; 07-18-2012 at 01:31 PM.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Your referring to the comment someone made in that thread about the alternator I presume. I'm not worried about the alternator really. It should be fine, and if it is PCM regulated voltage, then it's not the problem. I have a spare alternator as well, but the one on the car is basically brand new like the rest of the vehicle. I can get these things tested if necessary. For now I will concentrate on the AEM end of things.

So, I don't have the software CD, but will download the software. Inside the car I found a USB -> Serial cable and a Serial -> ODB2 cable. So presumably that is all I need? Well, I'll find out exactly what model number the AEM unit is, download the software and the manual and see what I can figure out.

As for battery sensor - there is no battery sensor in this car. Go figure. My S3 SRT4 has one, and it is of course plugged in. However, the wire is simply not present. Not sure why. There is no connector in the loom in the location it should be as compared to my '04. This car is using one of those small PC680 batteries so the JMB Ultimate CAI fits.

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 07:58 PM
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subscribed for answers. when i hooked mine up it wouldn't turn over either, but i didn't get any codes. ripped it out and haven't tried putting it back in since. looking for answers to my no start issues.

good luck and hopefully someone comes up with some good answers to your issues. they may help me out also.

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRT4-ITLGO View Post
Your referring to the comment someone made in that thread about the alternator I presume. I'm not worried about the alternator really. It should be fine, and if it is PCM regulated voltage, then it's not the problem. I have a spare alternator as well, but the one on the car is basically brand new like the rest of the vehicle. I can get these things tested if necessary. For now I will concentrate on the AEM end of things.

So, I don't have the software CD, but will download the software. Inside the car I found a USB -> Serial cable and a Serial -> ODB2 cable. So presumably that is all I need? Well, I'll find out exactly what model number the AEM unit is, download the software and the manual and see what I can figure out.

As for battery sensor - there is no battery sensor in this car. Go figure. My S3 SRT4 has one, and it is of course plugged in. However, the wire is simply not present. Not sure why. There is no connector in the loom in the location it should be as compared to my '04. This car is using one of those small PC680 batteries so the JMB Ultimate CAI fits.
You are on the right path. Need to get a computer hooked up to the EMS. You can mess with the software all you want without hooking it to the car to get familiar with it.

I wouldn't worry about the sensor for now. Just a heads up for the future.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I signed up on the AEM forums but apparently I've got to wait for administrator approval before I can actually do anything. I'll get my lap top sorted out, and get everything loaded, etc. Mess around with it and see what I can learn about its basic operations. I'm really only wanting to use it as a diagnostic tool at this point. ;-)

Maybe it will magically tell me wtf is wrong with this Neon!

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 11:26 PM
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 11:36 PM
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Did the car ever run with the EMS?

First thing I would do is download your calibration from the car and save it somewhere. Also email it to yourself for safe keeping. That way you can always go back to where you started.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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Did the car ever run with the EMS?

First thing I would do is download your calibration from the car and save it somewhere. Also email it to yourself for safe keeping. That way you can always go back to where you started.
Yes.

AFAIK, the car was running properly with the EMS. The guy who owned it blew up his DCR engine. Ordered a new DCR engine, received it, started to put it in, got bored or didn't feel like finishing it properly, decided he'd rather play with his Vette and sold the SRT.

So, yeah, the DCR stroker in the vehicle has never been turned yet. It's brand new. But I purposely stuck back in the same injectors specifically because I figured it'd at least run OK to tool around in with whatever settings were already in the EMS unit.

Once I get my PC laptop up and running I'll download the software. I have one that I use for tuning purposes on another vehicle. So I'll just load that software on there...and we'll see how this all shakes out.

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-21-2012, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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I've downloaded the software. Installed it on my laptop. I'm in the process of reading the manuals.

The reality is all I want to do is connect to it. See if it will tell me what is wrong. This engine has never been started. So presumably that might be the problem...the syncing of the sensors or whatever.

I'm going to try to find time just to read the basics. I don't want to use the AEM EMS for tuning, I'll leave that to a professional. I just want to be able to start the damn car so I can take it to a professional...lol

I'll do a bit of reading, and post back here before I try to connect to the car.

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-21-2012, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so at first I was not able to connect to the car. I made a post about it on the AEM forums which I'm guessing will not be replied to any time soon - or maybe it will. Either way, I have since found out that I can in fact connect to the AEM EMS unit. It just has to do with when I turn the key. Still not sure exactly how I did it, but I have been able to connect to it 2 times. So it is there, it seems to work.

When I do connect, I can see it loads the settings from the ECU, a file called "road tun" presumably is a road tune file that was in the ECU at the time the previous owner asploded his motor. ;-)

Now, I'm reading about how the cam and crank angle sensors need to be sync'd. And somewhere in there it says "Stat sync'd" and "OFF".

Not sure if this is the problem. Don't have a clue how to sync things. I will have to do some more reading and see if I can figure it out. Of course, if anyone reading this knows what I need to do from this point, I'm all ears!

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-21-2012, 08:59 PM
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Yes that sounds like the same spot i was in when i put mine in. I couldn't get the STAT SYNC to change to YES. i got frustrated and tore it out figuring i would get around to it sooner or later. good luck and post up once you get it figured out.

DCR built
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Frana input with extended gears
AEM now installed
Best timeslip
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11.12 1/4
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