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HOW-TO: AFX (NGK) Wideband Sensor Install + 0-5v Output for Data Logging

30K views 72 replies 33 participants last post by  igotboost05 
#1 · (Edited)
OK, now that you've got your AFX wideband in hand.

- 1st thing you need to do before going any further is to test the unit works! Hook up all the lines and temp connect it to the battery. OK? read on!

Then get the bung installed into your downpipe. If you have a stock downpipe, you will need to have the bung hole ( :lol: ) drilled out, then welded on. If you look at the downpipe, you'll notice the o2 housing then about 6" of pipe, then the cat. The bung needs to be placed before the cat to get the best readings, so you will want to place it some where in that section of pipe. I have myne directly in the center, pointed at the passenger side.

PS: The local exhaust shop did all of this for me. Cost $80 on debit card


- Now that you've got the 02 bung welded to the DP, you need to start thinking about how to run the control wires. The AFX has 2 sets of "bundled wires" wrapped in a nylon shell. The 1st set contains 5 color coded wires, where the 2nd bundle has only 3. Run the 02 connector to where your sensors output line goes. (It's basicly right behind the oil filler cap) If your not sure where, put the sensor into the DP BUT DON'T tighten it yet, as you'll be pulling it back out before your finished. Run your line down a bit and zip tie everything away from the hot areas as much as you can.

You'll then need to pull the wires through the firewall. I pulled myne through where the clutch cable is run. Look behind the battery tray and you'll see a black cable with a rubber gromit. ** feel free to look into other options, but this was the best for me **

You can now pull the connector apart and pull the wires from it. Use a pair of pliers, pinch the inside of the connector and pull carefully. If you haven't marked down where witch wire goes where, might wanna get a pen and look at the numbers on the back. Pull the wires from whats left of the conntector end.

With the wires pulled, you can put the smaller bundle (Red, Black, Black) aside for now. Take a metal coat hanger and cut it so you have a rod. Notice the nylon shell is going to get in the way if you try and pull it with the wires. Give your self a little extra and cut it to lenth so it butts up with the firewall after the wires will be pulled from the other end. Firmly attach the wires about 2" before the end of the rod with some good sticky tape (elctrical works fine) Carefully poke through the gromit and pull the wires through until the slack is mostly gone. Ziptie the nylon shell at both ends if needed.

With the wires pulled through the firewall, take that 2nd nylon shell that you just cut and put it back around the wires on the other end to keep things nice n clean. Now that your control line is ran through, you can connect the wires back to the connector. ** You did rember witch black goes where right? :lol: ** Use some tape to keep things happy. Figure out where you want your control module mounted. ** I put myne in the center HVAC next to the power outlet , fit's perfect! **

Now you just need to zip tie your control lines up and giver her some juice! I used the power outlets 12 volt supply seeing how it's only ON when the car is in the run position. Test your unit is powering on. If not, doubble check you wired the lines correctly.

If everything checks out OK. you'll need to calibrate the control module. Pull the sensor out of the DP (if you installed it) and power the unit on, but don't start the car. Go smoke a cig or wait 3-5 mins, come back and turn the adjustment knob on the back of the module until it reads CAL- no CAL_ or CAL with a dash on top.. Go smoke a cig or wait a few mins and tighten the sensor to 15-20 lbs.

Tripple check that all the lines are clear of moving and exhaust area, under the dash so nothing gets hung up by your feet and ENJOY! :clap:

ADDITION:

The AFX system has a 0-5 volt Analog output for data loging and or engine managment system hookups. If you look at the connector that feeds the digital display, you will notice that 2 wires have been "blocked". These are the pickups for the analog output. I'll be posting the graph for refrance shortly and how to take the connector apart so you don't have to hack the wires to install this thing.

But here is the AFX Linear Analog Output voltages for the Powerdex AFX Air-Fuel Ratio Monitor (PN: 91101) witch can be obtained from ngksparkplugs.com or by calling (877) 473-6767 option 2


Voltage <-> AFR

0.00 <-> 9.00
1.00 <-> 10.50
2.00 <-> 11.75
3.00 <-> 13.25
4.00 <-> 14.50
5.00 <-> 16.00

So if you are hooking up something, you might be looking for the slope and intercept:

Slope = 1.4
Intercept=9.0



Here are some pics. (click for larger view)

Mounting the sensor before cat, close to turbo as the shop could do.




Here is a pic of where I ran my wires through. It's kinda hard to see, but if you look under your hood, you will see a black rubber gromet on the firewall.




Um, yeah. The wires come out somewhere areound here. LOL. Just feel for the coat hanger if you used one.




The sensor installed, ran the aux to the Aeroforce Interceptor Scan guage (next to the boost guage).



This one you see 2 wires going into a 3 wire connector. 1 for Analog #1 and the other for #2 on the back of the Aeroforce Scan Gauge.



Here you see the other end (AFX) where I have installed the analog out wires into the #3 and #4 slot on the connector bundle. Just used some 18g wire to extend it up and through the dash pad to connect to the scanner.

 
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#7 ·
Shit, if I would have known. I would have thrown some pics up.:thumbsup:

I just got done with mine. It's nice and cold out and I will tell you this.

My mods at 21psi spike to 17hold....10.34 was the leanest I got with S2. After the spike it settled at 10-9.9 and it is COLD outside (36). Even threw a p0112, LOL.

I like this thing. Does its job nicely. Just need to find a place to put it in better sight than the lower compartment.
 
#8 ·
I could be totaly off here, so forgive me if I'm talking out my ass......
Would that location (IN the cat) not throw off the accuracy of the readings? If not, I'm all for not having to deal with an exhaust shop.
 
#10 ·
phurst said:
I could be totaly off here, so forgive me if I'm talking out my ass......
Would that location (IN the cat) not throw off the accuracy of the readings? If not, I'm all for not having to deal with an exhaust shop.

I think you would want it on the top left or right side if possable. You'll need to consider water messing up the sensor over time..
 
#16 ·
midnght said:
You do not want to put a wideband IN the cat bung. If you are running a stock or aftermarket with the o2 placed in the cat, you need to get the bung that came with the kit welded in at the 1-2o'clock position (this is looking down the DP from the front of the car).
Ok thats what I thought....have them use the bung that came with the kit and have it installed just before the o2 that is by the cat.
 
#19 ·
Got my O2 bung welded in today, so tomorrow hopefuly it'll be in. Of course the guy that welded it in didn't put the bung where I asked, but I think it'll be OK. Besides, what do you expect for $35? Thanks, everyone for posting up their install locations :thumbsup:
 
#20 ·
NGK AFX wideband 0-5v output fix

This “How To” is for the people who own a NKG wideband and want to use the 0-5v output for data logging, E-01 or D-tec. I called NGK and was told the “yellow” was not on the first production run! So if you want to use this feature this is how I did it!

1. You will need basic tools for this job, soldering iron, 3’ 20g wire, wire stripper
2. Located on the back of the plug that connects to the controller/display you will see that both pins 3 & 4 are plugged. Start by removing the plug using a small pair of tweezers.
3. Next look on the back of the controller/display and you will see the pins are numbered, look for pin# 3 using your soldering iron solder the 20g wire to the top of pin# 3.

4. Once the wire is soldered to the tip of pin# 3 you will run the wire through hole in position# 3 of the plug

5. After the wire has been run through the plug pull the slack as you plug the harness into the back of the controller/display and your done!
 
#25 ·
fst srt-4 said:
vschaos said:
What about the output ground? Do we have to run a wire for the output ground at all? I believe thats what the brown wire was for which was also not included.
If your looking to us the 0-5v "yellow" wire then no ground is needed. If you'd like you can use the same process to run your "brown" wire from pin# 4
Ok sweet I just need output for my tuning module mainly. I just didnt know if the output ground was required for it to work.
 
#26 ·
Ok... So I managed to get the wires pulled out of the plug that plugs into the oxygen sensor. I wrote down what colour wire goes where in the plug.

And then In cleaning up the garage I managed to throw away the paper I had it all recorded on.

Can someone, Anyone post up what colour wire goes into what cavity for the plug that plugs into the oxygen sensor.

Thanks in advance.
 
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