What is the life of a wideband O2 sensor? its used and when I go for a dyno w/wideband will that tell me how accurate? I have a stock fuel system(2004) and boosting 20spike to 14 hold. and my wideband just reads 10.0 but at idle it fluctuates from 14.4-15.3. I bought it used.
reads about where it should be, but yeah if you go to a dyno and use their
O2 sniffer you will be able to compare how accurate your wideband is, and its nice to see your AFR printed put and per RPM so that you dont have to mash the gas on the road and try to watch your gauge...the life should also depend on what brand and model wideband also
What is the life of a wideband O2 sensor? its used and when I go for a dyno w/wideband will that tell me how accurate? I have a stock fuel system(2004) and boosting 20spike to 14 hold. and my wideband just reads 10.0 but at idle it fluctuates from 14.4-15.3. I bought it used.
if its at 10 during WOT then you need to cut some of the fuel. you're losing power running that rich...get a return line and a fpr. also at least a map clamp and you can boost more and tune your vehicle
__________________
05 Orange
13.1 @ 109mph
ED BFMIC, PTP WGA 19-24psi, JMB Hard pipes, Needs Wings Down pipe, MaxFab O2 housing, Greddy Type RS BOV, Map Clamp, AEM Wideband, 03 fuel rail with return line kit, Ported and polished stock turbo and manifold, Tein springs, solid motor mounts, Mopar stage 1, Mopar STS, catch can, PTP check valve
Hey lady, drop the peon and hop in the Neon...LMAO
If you stay away from lead or additives then it should last a couple of years. I have the NGK and just got a new sensor and my original sensor has lasted for 12,000 miles. I just found a new sensor for $79 so I figured that it was worth replacing.
What is the life of a wideband O2 sensor? its used and when I go for a dyno w/wideband will that tell me how accurate? I have a stock fuel system(2004) and boosting 20spike to 14 hold. and my wideband just reads 10.0 but at idle it fluctuates from 14.4-15.3. I bought it used.
if its at 10 during WOT then you need to cut some of the fuel. you're losing power running that rich...get a return line and a fpr. also at least a map clamp and you can boost more and tune your vehicle
but if it is off at wot and I cut it back to 11.5 it might be 12.5-13
What is the life of a wideband O2 sensor? its used and when I go for a dyno w/wideband will that tell me how accurate? I have a stock fuel system(2004) and boosting 20spike to 14 hold. and my wideband just reads 10.0 but at idle it fluctuates from 14.4-15.3. I bought it used.
if its at 10 during WOT then you need to cut some of the fuel. you're losing power running that rich...get a return line and a fpr. also at least a map clamp and you can boost more and tune your vehicle
but if it is off at wot and I cut it back to 11.5 it might be 12.5-13
i think that its where it should be at WOT, it might not be exactly where, its hard to tell because every car is different but it seems close
What is the life of a wideband O2 sensor? its used and when I go for a dyno w/wideband will that tell me how accurate? I have a stock fuel system(2004) and boosting 20spike to 14 hold. and my wideband just reads 10.0 but at idle it fluctuates from 14.4-15.3. I bought it used.
if its at 10 during WOT then you need to cut some of the fuel. you're losing power running that rich...get a return line and a fpr. also at least a map clamp and you can boost more and tune your vehicle
but if it is off at wot and I cut it back to 11.5 it might be 12.5-13
i have an aem wideband. i had some crazy shit happening with it a few weeks back where it seemed to be running crazy lean. the guage was melted and one of the wires running off the sensor were shorted giving an innaccurate reading. check your wires first
It is common for the sensor to read .5 richer than the dyno's sniffer. If its off more than that it needs to be calibrated. This is just due to the sensors placement. I personally feel comfortable trusting my sensor rather than the dyno's. After all mine is closer to the action. They could have a short life span depending on the abuse you put it through, but I would try calibrating it before buying a new one. I just calibrated mine after like 5k miles, and it was almost 1 full point off.
Mine is still damn close to stoich...14.7 after 1.5 yrs and 2 turbos. They all fluctuate a bit when cruising as said. My sensors can be bought for about $45 online. Innovative LC-1 integrated with ems. Can unplug and hit calibrate button if needed. I even mix race gas on every fill up. Couple gallons.
Link for cheap price on upper sensors. I bought the ones toward bottom of page. $22.99 a pc. Bought a couple spares to save shipping. Cheap insurance. Carry
spares with me.
thats reading exactly like it should....you're just pegging the thing rich at WOT..doesnt read any richer than 10.0:1 i imagine..i know my LM-1 doesnt. Sensor is fine, you just need a tune.
if you're stock...10.0:1..these things run crazy pig rich. I've got mine dialed in at 11.5:1 at wot, thats about as far as i want to take it since i dont have the ability to read knock count and such yet.
if you're stock...10.0:1..these things run crazy pig rich. I've got mine dialed in at 11.5:1 at wot, thats about as far as i want to take it since i dont have the ability to read knock count and such yet.
Doesn't your dtec read knock?
__________________
-Matt- -SCT Tuned- By Yours Truely
05 SRT-4 Stage 3 47lb FP Green
What is the life of a wideband O2 sensor? its used and when I go for a dyno w/wideband will that tell me how accurate? I have a stock fuel system(2004) and boosting 20spike to 14 hold. and my wideband just reads 10.0 but at idle it fluctuates from 14.4-15.3. I bought it used.
if you're not using race gas it should last you a long time. i just had to replace my wideband sensor after about three years and i run leaded gas quite a bit. if you're stickig wtih unleaded then it should last you a little longer.
Quote: Originally Posted by dj muze
if its at 10 during WOT then you need to cut some of the fuel. you're losing power running that rich...get a return line and a fpr. also at least a map clamp and you can boost more and tune your vehicle
he's running rich...so add more fuel with a return line. good idea. a basic fuel controller is a better option, and no one should ever run a map clamp, those things are just a waste of time.
Quote: Originally Posted by catlin987987
but if it is off at wot and I cut it back to 11.5 it might be 12.5-13
Quote: Originally Posted by Slow_spool
i think that its where it should be at WOT, it might not be exactly where, its hard to tell because every car is different but it seems close
an a/f of 13 is good? i hope that you don't have your car tuned to that. 11.5-12 is a safe a/f for pump gas, you can bump that to 12.5, maybe a little higher, on race gas. if you're running a 13 a/f on pump say good bye to your rings.
Quote: Originally Posted by mad1
Mine is still damn close to stoich...14.7 after 1.5 yrs and 2 turbos. They all fluctuate a bit when cruising as said. My sensors can be bought for about $25 online. Innovative LC-1 integrated with ems. Can unplug and hit calibrate button if needed. I even mix race gas on every fill up. Couple gallons.
Link for cheap price on upper sensors. I bought the ones toward bottom of page. $22.99 a pc. Bought a couple spares to save shipping. Cheap insurance. Carry spares with me.
you do realize that the o2 sensors that are listed on that page are oem replacement units (ie narrowbands), not wideband sensors right? wideband sensors are significantly more expensive, the cheapest i have found them is about $60.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
Wideband O2 sensor life?
Linear Mode
