So, I was reading thru this post here.... Stage 1 + piggyback = not good for high boost/hp fine tuning and i'm sort of confused........ with the power i'm making now i'm on the Stg. 1 pcm with the GReddy e-manage and e-01....I have a lot of lean spots on the map form anything below 2600rpm and lower...this is the way p-werks tuned my car I guess......well anwyays...i'm running 13:3:1 afr and I reaaally want to get that down.....I still have the stage 0 pcm in my garage. If I swap the Stg. 1 for the Stg. 0 would that richen things up a little, or not at all?
x2, dont WOT in higher gears at that low of rpm the egt's go crazy high. I have seen egt's get to 2300 degrees by doing that, so dont do it.
Is this true even when pure stock? When driving around I get on it around 2800-3000 rps usually; but sometimes on the highway I'll give it a quick push at around 2500-2700 rpms. It seems to me that Dodge wouldn't assume that people would know to take care of their engine and build it to take that kinda thing, or does it say not to do that somewhere in the manual?
well, when they dyno your car i'm guessing they start off flooring around 2500rpm...i mean honestly, P-Werks tuned my car, and I wasnt there when they did, they kept it overnite to test fit there what was prototyped front strut brace...so I dont know when they floored it...i'll have to go back to the dyno graph and take a look at it again... AFR was actually AVERAGE of 13.3....
well, when they dyno your car i'm guessing they start off flooring around 2500rpm...i mean honestly, P-Werks tuned my car, and I wasnt there when they did, they kept it overnite to test fit there what was prototyped front strut brace...so I dont know when they floored it...i'll have to go back to the dyno graph and take a look at it again... AFR was actually AVERAGE of 13.3....
You mean like 13.3 average to redline?? Holy egt's
__________________
"straight clownin" This is not Photoshop
It's for someone considering an Acura RSX, but actually wants some power --Road & Track
No way that is correct...your car would be cooked by now if that was the case!
I got a reality check last night as my car was running an a/f of 13.8 for 1 year and i dint even know. The funny thing on the dyno it showed an a/f of 11.9, then a year later i strapped on a brand new wideband and it was spiking to 14.1 dropping to 13.8-13.6 @redline for a year of abuse. Finally tuned it last night using my Return line and a boost source and my a/f stay at a steady 12.4 all the way to redline with my water meth... of course all of this was tuned on a cold night Car pulls like a freight train. From now on im never trusting dyno widebands.
__________________
F&F Stage III 47lb turbo
Returnline
AGP WGA,
Snow Performance Stage II Meth/inj
11.40@125mph 26psi and no boost leak
371whp @22 psi pump gas ( With a big ass boost leak)
I got a reality check last night as my car was running an a/f of 13.8 for 1 year and i dint even know. The funny thing on the dyno it showed an a/f of 11.9, then a year later i strapped on a brand new wideband and it was spiking to 14.1 dropping to 13.8-13.6 @redline for a year of abuse. Finally tuned it last night using my Return line and a boost source and my a/f stay at a steady 12.4 all the way to redline with my water meth... of course all of this was tuned on a cold night Car pulls like a freight train. From now on im never trusting dyno widebands.
Come on you should have known that the dyno sniffer was crap! The ones I have used are never even close to what the WB shows .
Glad your car held up however and good to see you got it fixed up!
you wanna see the dyno graph? I'll show it to ya...AVERAGE IS 13.3
there you go mang!
Honestly do not trust the dyno...get a wide band and then see what you are at...could be higher or lower. I have seen some dynos read as much as 1.0+/- compared to a WB...plus if you have a cat it can make this even worse of a reading.
Why not call the shop who tuned your car...that would have been the first thing I would have done!
Come on you should have known that the dyno sniffer was crap! The ones I have used are never even close to what the WB shows .
Glad your car held up however and good to see you got it fixed up!
Ya thank god my baby held up, but i think it was the water/meth that kept the thing alive. I just cant believe how good it runs now... Going to the track next week and hoping for 113mph min traps
Yea, I have my bigger turbo sitting right next to me in a box along with some gauges, but a WB isn't one of them yet. I can get an awesome deal on the AEM UEGO when the time comes.
Anyways, I took the car out last nite, and I was flooring it in 1st and 1st and 2nd gear at anything over 2500 are fine...but if you put it in 3rd and floor it....the car tries to go and then a lout POP sound comes out from the engine bay or under the car maybe...but the car doesn't go anywhere...same thing in 4th gear...
I was talking to Racing Jason last nite on AIM, and he suggested looking over the Wastegate, making sure theres no exhaust cracks in the manifold, make sure the exhaust itself is sealed and theres no cracks, or bent bolts, etc....then also to check my plugs, and check for any boost or vacuum leaks...but, I zip tied all of my vacuum lines the other inte and I checked them after the run and everything was good, and no leaks or anything...but on the green check valve about 4 nites ago I blew off a hose on the check valve that apparently controlled the brakes and the factory boost gauge..cuz when I did the brakes went completely stiff, and the E-01 boost gauge worked but the factory one was on 0 which meant no vacuum...so I double zip tied the green check valve...i'm lost on what it might be...
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.